331 stroker build cam and head options
#11
Ya know, looking at it, KB only offers one hypereutectic piston for 5.4" 331's. So if you're sure they're hypereutectics, you have the exact same rotating assembly I do. ~9.2:1 with a 64cc chamber, which is great for a street car. I run 89 octane in mine, but you could probably run 87 with aluminum heads.
If you want a little more compression and can afford the extra expense, they also make a forged piston that will put you at ~9.8:1 with 64cc chambers. You'll get a bit more umph out of the engine, would still be able to run pump gas with aluminum heads, and could run a little giggle juice without worrying about shattering a piston.
If you want a little more compression and can afford the extra expense, they also make a forged piston that will put you at ~9.8:1 with 64cc chambers. You'll get a bit more umph out of the engine, would still be able to run pump gas with aluminum heads, and could run a little giggle juice without worrying about shattering a piston.
#12
For stock pistons this is true. But he's rebuilding and the pistons he's getting are already going to have standard valve reliefs in them, so he's going to be able to run a bigger cam with standard wedge heads than with the TFS heads. Also, I've never seen 331 pistons with twisted wedge valve reliefs.
#13
Ah, I forgot he was getting a new rotating assembly. DSS I believe has a 331 for TFS TW.
http://www.dssracing.com/ProductDeta...ctCode=RA331X5
http://www.dssracing.com/ProductDeta...ctCode=RA331X5
#14
I stand corrected. Their balanced kits are overpriced, though.
I almost bought my stroker kit from DSS, but passed due to their customer service. They kept trying to push their nice but super expensive and waaaay overkill stud girdle on me, claiming that every sbf pushing over 300hp should have one. BS. Guy wouldn't take no for an answer, so I ended the call and went local to someone who built me what I wanted. Not saying they do or don't make a good product, I just won't deal with them.
I almost bought my stroker kit from DSS, but passed due to their customer service. They kept trying to push their nice but super expensive and waaaay overkill stud girdle on me, claiming that every sbf pushing over 300hp should have one. BS. Guy wouldn't take no for an answer, so I ended the call and went local to someone who built me what I wanted. Not saying they do or don't make a good product, I just won't deal with them.
#15
Ah, I forgot he was getting a new rotating assembly. DSS I believe has a 331 for TFS TW.
http://www.dssracing.com/ProductDeta...ctCode=RA331X5
http://www.dssracing.com/ProductDeta...ctCode=RA331X5
the stroker kit im looking at is $800
heads around $600
balancer $150
torque converter ?????
headers $150
rear end rebuild $300
Last edited by knuckless; 04-15-2009 at 03:27 PM.
#16
You do realize that you're going to end up spending a lot more than that, right?
$175 to get the rotating assembly balanced
$80 for a balancer (Powerforce makes a good non-SFI unit that will work fine for you)
Rear end will run you upwards of $1k if you want a trac-loc or true-trac diff, half that if not
$120 Full engine bolt set
$80 Head bolt set
$100-140 engine gasket set
Intake/carb that will support the stroker (Weiand Stealth/Edelbrock RPM and 600-650CFM carb)
Oil pump and hardened driveshaft
$180 cam/lifters
All the chemicals you'll need
Enough oil/filters to do several oil changes (initial fill, after 20min break in, 50mi, 200mi, 500mi, 1k, 3k)
I spent a good $4500 on my motor build, just on the motor. I probably spent another $1500 in miscellaneous expenses. You'll save some on machining, but you're not building a stroker motor on $1800.
$175 to get the rotating assembly balanced
$80 for a balancer (Powerforce makes a good non-SFI unit that will work fine for you)
Rear end will run you upwards of $1k if you want a trac-loc or true-trac diff, half that if not
$120 Full engine bolt set
$80 Head bolt set
$100-140 engine gasket set
Intake/carb that will support the stroker (Weiand Stealth/Edelbrock RPM and 600-650CFM carb)
Oil pump and hardened driveshaft
$180 cam/lifters
All the chemicals you'll need
Enough oil/filters to do several oil changes (initial fill, after 20min break in, 50mi, 200mi, 500mi, 1k, 3k)
I spent a good $4500 on my motor build, just on the motor. I probably spent another $1500 in miscellaneous expenses. You'll save some on machining, but you're not building a stroker motor on $1800.
Last edited by Starfury; 04-15-2009 at 07:11 PM.
#19
All I can say is... You gotta pay to play. With your budget, you should wait. Save your money, maybe start acquiring parts little by little. You could go ahead and get the rear end built up, (which by the way, what do you have in the rear?) and upgrade other parts of the car such as brakes if they are 4 wheel drum ( you gotta stop all that power). Im just saying you will spend 3 times what you have in your "budget." I have over $6,000 in just my engine, and thats just parts... I built it all myself. And that doesn't include me having to build the transmission and rear axle to hold the power.
#20
yes i know ill spend way more then the $1800, probably another $1000 on top of that once everything is added up, actually way more then that
luckily i already have a edelbrock carb and intake that can support the stroker
the rear i really dont care much about right now, i know it will make huge difference once i put a good rear in but for now ill stick with the stock with new gears until i can afford to build a bullitproof rear. im really not racing it like i said just driving it easy.
for all the bolts, my dad works for caterpillar and he gets me all the bolts i need for the engine, they are basically the strongest bolts you can get. youd be surpised how many caterpillar bolts i have in the engine now, its turned out to be pretty easy to find matching bolts
for the balancing im trying to find a shop that can do it around me in jersey, if not i may just buy a pre balanced shaft.
luckily i already have a edelbrock carb and intake that can support the stroker
the rear i really dont care much about right now, i know it will make huge difference once i put a good rear in but for now ill stick with the stock with new gears until i can afford to build a bullitproof rear. im really not racing it like i said just driving it easy.
for all the bolts, my dad works for caterpillar and he gets me all the bolts i need for the engine, they are basically the strongest bolts you can get. youd be surpised how many caterpillar bolts i have in the engine now, its turned out to be pretty easy to find matching bolts
for the balancing im trying to find a shop that can do it around me in jersey, if not i may just buy a pre balanced shaft.
Last edited by knuckless; 04-15-2009 at 09:56 PM.