knuckless

thats my plan, it may take me most the summer to slowly get this engine built but i dont mind. i was planning on at first buying the cam, heads, and torque converter.

then drop the stroker in when its time to fully rebuild the engine and get the rest of the needed parts then when i have the money

i just like to plan and make a build sheet of what i need and what i should get

tyler72

Bold: yeah, I said that too, but after I felt the power of the 347, the 8" got the **** beat out of it... it held together just fine, but it was open diff and wasn't much fun. I would be against waiting for the rear, thats what I did, but once you get a posi in there, its 100x more fun.

Also, when a crank shaft is balanced, they do it to the flywheel and balncer, so you would get a flywheel, crank, and balancer with a balanced kit. Also, if you buy a complete balanced stroker kit, the rods are also balanced too. Thats why its a big advantage to just buy a kit that is already set up.

knuckless

well see what i can do, i was looking up ford 9 inches on ebay this morning to see what they would run me for the housing and center section, found $600 for the center section with posi or detroit locker, and about used housing was $125. how much would axels run me?

tyler72

I had to run Mosers because of my posi, they were $350 shipped.

urban_cowboy

Before you purchase pistons, rods, crank, and heads, have someone help you calculate the REAL compression ratio you will have with your exact parts combination. Those compression ratios quoted by rotating assembly package guys is never very accurate. Compression ratio will depend on piston to deck clearance, piston compression height, piston dish/dome, stroke, bore, head combustion chamber, etc. I discovered when building out my 383 stroker, that to get the compression ratio I wanted 10-10.3, I had to have custom pistons built. You will probably not have that problem, but someone needs to run the numbers so you are not surprised when you have a 11:1 or 8:1 motor when you though you were getting a 9:1 motor.

As for heads, something in the 165-170cc intake runner size would be about right. Combustion chamber options are going to be TOTALLY dependent on your rotating assembly and desired compression ratio. AFR, Edelbrock, and TrickFlow all have good options for you motor and are pretty popular so there should be used ones out there to pick from.

My final words of wisdom are on hypereuteric pistons. They are great for a stock janer motor, but will not tolerate power adders or detonation. They can be brittle and will not like being beat up, so be careful. I would suggest considering a set of forged pistons which are much stronger if you plan to abuse it.

Starfury

For a NA street motor, as long as you've got the timing set up properly, hypereutectics are fine. Mine work great They have an added advantage of being able to reflect heat in back into the combustion chamber for less quench. At 1/3 the price of forged, I considered it a pretty good deal.

Knuckless, you don't really need a 9" rear with that motor. A good 8" build will tolerate 400ft-lbs as long as you're not doing drag launches with sticky tires. I wouldn't worry so much about a new housing and axles if you're ona budget, just set up the 8" you've got with a TrueTrac and new gears.

Get the rotating assembly balanced locally by a shop with a good machine. It's cheaper, and that way you can be sure you get the proper flywheel and balancer that you need before you have it balanced. And for the record, the entire rotating assembly must be balanced, not just the crank, flywheel, and balancer.

It's good that you can get those Cat bolts, but they're not going to be available for things like the head and mains. Those two right there will run you a pretty penny from ARP, and you don't want anything else in there.

tyler72

+1, on everything you said there starfury

knuckless

yeah i figured it would be hard to get the Cat bolts for all of the bolts i need but i was going to try. so far i have intake manifold, valve cover, time chain cover, water pump, and oil pan Cat bolts in the engine, so i got some but not nearly all.

the kit says i need a 28oz external balancer but dont know what flywheel, would the company selling it know what flywheel i need?

so basically just bring the whole kit to a shop and have them balance it?

thanks for the help guys i really appreciate it

Starfury

Actually, you said you're running an Auto, so you need a flexplate, not a flywheel. You can get one from any Mustang parts house, or go to Napa and get a BK 600-5010.

urban_cowboy

Typically when someone talks about balancing a rotating assembly, they are talking about one of two things.

1. Balance crank for 0oz or internally balanced. This would mean that you would NOT use 28oz harmonic balancer and flexplate but would rather use 0oz balance balancer and flexplate. In this type setup, you are not depending on weights outside of the motor to balance the rotating assembly.

2. Weigh rods, pistons, pins, and bolts and match them so that the weight per hole is as close to the same as possible and the piston and rod weight is as close to the same as possible. Material can be removed from rods and pistons if need be to get them close. Theoretically, if all pistons are the same, all rods are the same, and all weight is the same per hole, the motor is balanced and will be very happy.

Personally, I did both 1 & 2 in an attempt to keep the motor as balanced and happy as possible. In a stroker that you wish to spin high, this is pretty important to prevent premature parts failure and help prevent crazy vibrations.