Weight
05-25-2009, 09:59 PM
#12
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Hills of California
Posts: 5,208
best and cheep way to save weight is to dump all the seats then cut out the perches that they use to sit on.
Then get rid of the hood and get a fiber glass one. or none at all if law permits
Get rid of the sway bars they can add an additional 30 pounds.
Dump the heater box and all the acc. like the blower and wiper motor.
Remove the carpet and take the sound deading crap out from under it. it is weighed down with rock and tar and adds and additional 15 pounds. if you dont re-install the carpet thats another 5 pounds
The end of the driveshaft on the trans side has been over engineered measure 3" past the end of the slip yoke near the U joint and cut the rest off.
remove all the un-necessary stuff like badges and radiator grill, headlight buckets and the frame they mount to and toss them out for an additional 10 pounds
Cut the exhaust off 3 feet back from the collector and leave the exhaust header bolts loose so you can quickly remove them and run the car with the heavy cast iron header off (only on the track of course) for an additonal 25 pounds
It really adds up quick you can shave probaly 1.5 sec off your 0-60 time if you do all these mods
-Gun
Then get rid of the hood and get a fiber glass one. or none at all if law permits
Get rid of the sway bars they can add an additional 30 pounds.
Dump the heater box and all the acc. like the blower and wiper motor.
Remove the carpet and take the sound deading crap out from under it. it is weighed down with rock and tar and adds and additional 15 pounds. if you dont re-install the carpet thats another 5 pounds
The end of the driveshaft on the trans side has been over engineered measure 3" past the end of the slip yoke near the U joint and cut the rest off.
remove all the un-necessary stuff like badges and radiator grill, headlight buckets and the frame they mount to and toss them out for an additional 10 pounds
Cut the exhaust off 3 feet back from the collector and leave the exhaust header bolts loose so you can quickly remove them and run the car with the heavy cast iron header off (only on the track of course) for an additonal 25 pounds
It really adds up quick you can shave probaly 1.5 sec off your 0-60 time if you do all these mods
-Gun
05-25-2009, 10:08 PM
#13
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 5,896
05-25-2009, 10:32 PM
#18
best and cheep way to save weight is to dump all the seats then cut out the perches that they use to sit on.
Then get rid of the hood and get a fiber glass one. or none at all if law permits
Get rid of the sway bars they can add an additional 30 pounds.
Dump the heater box and all the acc. like the blower and wiper motor.
Remove the carpet and take the sound deading crap out from under it. it is weighed down with rock and tar and adds and additional 15 pounds. if you dont re-install the carpet thats another 5 pounds
The end of the driveshaft on the trans side has been over engineered measure 3" past the end of the slip yoke near the U joint and cut the rest off.
remove all the un-necessary stuff like badges and radiator grill, headlight buckets and the frame they mount to and toss them out for an additional 10 pounds
Cut the exhaust off 3 feet back from the collector and leave the exhaust header bolts loose so you can quickly remove them and run the car with the heavy cast iron header off (only on the track of course) for an additonal 25 pounds
It really adds up quick you can shave probaly 1.5 sec off your 0-60 time if you do all these mods
-Gun
Then get rid of the hood and get a fiber glass one. or none at all if law permits
Get rid of the sway bars they can add an additional 30 pounds.
Dump the heater box and all the acc. like the blower and wiper motor.
Remove the carpet and take the sound deading crap out from under it. it is weighed down with rock and tar and adds and additional 15 pounds. if you dont re-install the carpet thats another 5 pounds
The end of the driveshaft on the trans side has been over engineered measure 3" past the end of the slip yoke near the U joint and cut the rest off.
remove all the un-necessary stuff like badges and radiator grill, headlight buckets and the frame they mount to and toss them out for an additional 10 pounds
Cut the exhaust off 3 feet back from the collector and leave the exhaust header bolts loose so you can quickly remove them and run the car with the heavy cast iron header off (only on the track of course) for an additonal 25 pounds
It really adds up quick you can shave probaly 1.5 sec off your 0-60 time if you do all these mods
-Gun
I'll start really messing with the mustang once we get our new garage built.
05-25-2009, 11:11 PM
#19
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Hills of California
Posts: 5,208
Thats all terrible advice...I was just messing with you...Im scared now that you actually considered any of them and said to yourself "hey gun really has his crap together thats a great idea" instead of saying "haha have a look at this tosser" ....It was only a joke.
I think you need to sit back and re-evaluate the entire situation. You have an I6 you might be putting 80 to 100Hp to the wheels what are you trying to accomplish with this? Its not a race car...It is a sold classic mustang with a 12 second 0-60...you should be directing money and effort to the classic appeal and looks nothing else...dont try to make it something it isnt... Enjoy it for what it is
-Gun
I think you need to sit back and re-evaluate the entire situation. You have an I6 you might be putting 80 to 100Hp to the wheels what are you trying to accomplish with this? Its not a race car...It is a sold classic mustang with a 12 second 0-60...you should be directing money and effort to the classic appeal and looks nothing else...dont try to make it something it isnt... Enjoy it for what it is
-Gun
05-25-2009, 11:21 PM
#20
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: NH
Posts: 3,485
you can get rid of the sway bar for a drag car. it helps with weight transfer. other than that you want one.
gun, i wouldnt say all of that stuff would be a joke, like the exhaust stuff and the DS yeah, but most of it could be done and would help a little bit.
think of it as a build goes. you see a stuff that costs a couple bucks here, a couple bucks here, and you dont think too much of it. but when you go to checkout it really adds up, just like shaving weight, every little bit counts.
if this is what he wants to do, which doesnt seem the greatest, but if its what he wants why not help him with it.... lol as long as we provide him with the adequete info on what could happen or why it itsnt the smartest, its his car, he can do what he wants with it. not trying to argue with anyone...
gun, i wouldnt say all of that stuff would be a joke, like the exhaust stuff and the DS yeah, but most of it could be done and would help a little bit.
think of it as a build goes. you see a stuff that costs a couple bucks here, a couple bucks here, and you dont think too much of it. but when you go to checkout it really adds up, just like shaving weight, every little bit counts.
if this is what he wants to do, which doesnt seem the greatest, but if its what he wants why not help him with it.... lol as long as we provide him with the adequete info on what could happen or why it itsnt the smartest, its his car, he can do what he wants with it. not trying to argue with anyone...