Curse The Sky

Hi guys,

ALL of the body work is done on my '66 coupe, and we're in the middle of sanding, picking out paint, and working on the suspension / brakes. It's been a long time running now, but there's light at the end of the tunnel!

Even though I'm only running a stock 289 at the moment, I'm considering dropping in a built engine in the future. I'd like to add subframe connectors to strengthen the chassis a bit and avoid twisting anything.

Would bolt-in subframe connectors get the job done, or are weld-in a must? As long as the bolt-ins will be 50-70% as good as the weld-ins, I'll be satisfied.

Since Mustangs Unlimited is only a 20-25 minute drive from me, I'm considering:
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...?T1=CEE3140+01 (bolt-in, $100)
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...sp?T1=C3140+01 (bolt-in, $155)
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...?T1=CEE3040+01 (weld-in, $125)
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...sp?T1=GW910+01 (weld-in, $160)

I'm running a bit low on cash, so I'd like to save as much as possible but still get the job done. What do you suggest?

Thanks.

1slow67

I would buy the bolt ons. Bolt them on and then weld them to give them extra strength.

4reboy

In the future I will probably do bolt ins and just have them tach welded on for a little more strength. I don't like the idea of something permanently welded to my car

67mustang302

If bolt ins are installed correctly they won't go anywhere and won't make a difference over weld in, unless you're talking about insane power levels.

urban_cowboy

My thoughts are if you "need" sub-frame connectors then they need to be welded. Keep in mind that the unibody and subframe is the backbone of the car. Depending on the conditions, there can be a bunch of pressure on those supports to keep the body from flexing. You are trying to tie the front and rear of the car together, so welding them makes since to me.

67mustang302

It's not necessary. Most people actually have no idea how much force bolted components actually apply. The sub frames themselves will actually flex due to the force before the bolted locations start to move. Provided they're properly installed with high quality hardware. If you start to develop so much power they are wallowing the bolt holes or moving, then you have so much power you need a cage to keep the car straight.

Curse The Sky

Thanks guys, I'll grab the cheap $100 bolt-ins and call it a day. I doubt the car will be pushing enough power to NEED the subframe connectors, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

My goal is to get somewhere around 270-300 RWHP some day, but when I have the cash for that, I should have the cash to strengthen the chassis a bit better anyway.

67mustang302

I'm pushing that with bolt in connectors and have 0 issues. Just bolt them in correctly.

Kotobuki

Now, I know you want to do this quick and easy, just run down the street and pick some up... But in looking at things (and again, I'm no engineer) I personally like the looks of the TinMan subframe connectors. They're weld ins, and a little more expensive than some of the ones you're looking at... but from what I've seen, If I were to make some myself, that's how I'd want them made. There's some pictures in the .PDF at the bottom and a price on the next page.

I don't have one of these cars, and I've never used their products, and I certainly don't get any compensation from them. But just looking at them, they impress me the most.

cmanf

I have the mst /unlimited with the roll hoop and i just welded along with the bolts.
My car is putting down some torque and they seem fine. It may have been overkill to weld them but I like more than I need on things like that and brakes.