Rookie mistake! & new 351w pics
08-31-2009, 08:36 PM
#11
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Socal
Posts: 1,235
Man you owe me. 
Epoxy the drive into the dist. Put just enough to hold in the rod. It will hold it. Before it sets 100%, stab it in the engine and that will make the thing line completely up. If not, it can be crooked before it goes in. Have done this more than once on mine. I forgot the same thing on my first engine build when I was,...18 I think, and the it lasted for years, with multiple times removing it.
Epoxy the drive into the dist. Put just enough to hold in the rod. It will hold it. Before it sets 100%, stab it in the engine and that will make the thing line completely up. If not, it can be crooked before it goes in. Have done this more than once on mine. I forgot the same thing on my first engine build when I was,...18 I think, and the it lasted for years, with multiple times removing it.
08-31-2009, 09:01 PM
#12
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: ga
Posts: 116
Man you owe me.
Epoxy the drive into the dist. Put just enough to hold in the rod. It will hold it. Before it sets 100%, stab it in the engine and that will make the thing line completely up. If not, it can be crooked before it goes in. Have done this more than once on mine. I forgot the same thing on my first engine build when I was,...18 I think, and the it lasted for years, with multiple times removing it.
Epoxy the drive into the dist. Put just enough to hold in the rod. It will hold it. Before it sets 100%, stab it in the engine and that will make the thing line completely up. If not, it can be crooked before it goes in. Have done this more than once on mine. I forgot the same thing on my first engine build when I was,...18 I think, and the it lasted for years, with multiple times removing it.
09-01-2009, 07:41 PM
#16
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Delaware(US) & Nova Scotia(Canada)
Posts: 2,035
OK well we dropped the shaft in using long needle nose pliers and it dropped in perfectly. I did that before I saw the epoxy suggestion from CPR.. great idea! We've got a super strong magnet here that I'll use to pull it out tomorrow and do just that with the epoxy. No fear of dropping it with the magnet due to its power. Thanks for that idea! 
As for the look.. the wife said last year she wanted a pretty (but not feminine or girlie) engine and bay. I think I've accomplished that. I and most others didn't really know how the purple would go with everything and I didn't want to over do it. I feel the purple, black, shiny stuff all balances out well.
Thanks for all the positive comments folks.
As for the look.. the wife said last year she wanted a pretty (but not feminine or girlie) engine and bay. I think I've accomplished that. I and most others didn't really know how the purple would go with everything and I didn't want to over do it. I feel the purple, black, shiny stuff all balances out well.
Thanks for all the positive comments folks.
09-02-2009, 12:18 AM
#17
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 151
We stick the shaft in a straw, like McDonalds type, or a piece of vacuum hose then lower it down to the pump, spin the straw/hose until you feel the shaft set into the pump, run something thin through the straw, like a spare brake line to push the shaft out of the straw. Add a little bearing grease to the end of the distributor shaft. Make sure the pointy end of the driveshaft faces up. If there is no difference between the ends I round off the top edges to ease the mating of the distributor. When pulling the distributor in the future, pull the cap and rotor off, lift the dist up maybe 1/4" and lightly tap the top of the dist shaft with a small hammer, or wrench. That will drop the driveshaft back into the oil pump.
I don't like using the magnet to lower the driveshaft in. Its a pain because when you pull the magnet out it can lift the shaft out. Sure, stick a small flat head in there to hold it down. I've had the head of my telescopic magnet separate and get stuck in the block before.
And speaking of getting things stuck in the block, be careful if you decide to stick a socket in there to prime the oil system. If you have an old distributor remove the cam gear, jam a big bolt on top of the dist shaft, or weld one and you have an instant engine oil primer. Electric drill with socket adapter and you're golden.
I don't like using the magnet to lower the driveshaft in. Its a pain because when you pull the magnet out it can lift the shaft out. Sure, stick a small flat head in there to hold it down. I've had the head of my telescopic magnet separate and get stuck in the block before.
And speaking of getting things stuck in the block, be careful if you decide to stick a socket in there to prime the oil system. If you have an old distributor remove the cam gear, jam a big bolt on top of the dist shaft, or weld one and you have an instant engine oil primer. Electric drill with socket adapter and you're golden.
09-02-2009, 09:04 AM
#19
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Delaware(US) & Nova Scotia(Canada)
Posts: 2,035
latamud.. The magnet will only be used to lift it out to epoxy it to the dist. Its about 8" long and bolted to a telescopic rod. Nothing to break off and no change of the shaft dropping from it.
69fb.. Its a Race Pro made by Northern. The fans are either 11" or 12" SPAL units and suck a good amount of air. I bought the rad, shroud and fans through a company called Universal Parts last year during a sale. It was exactly what I had been looking for.
The passengers overflow is for the rad and the drivers is for window washer fluid. Both were 17" I think and just fit.. dropping almost below the frame.
69fb.. Its a Race Pro made by Northern. The fans are either 11" or 12" SPAL units and suck a good amount of air. I bought the rad, shroud and fans through a company called Universal Parts last year during a sale. It was exactly what I had been looking for.
The passengers overflow is for the rad and the drivers is for window washer fluid. Both were 17" I think and just fit.. dropping almost below the frame.
