Should I just get new control arms?
09-24-2009, 12:54 PM
#1
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 2,990
Should I just get new control arms?
When replacing my front suspension, should I just buy new upper and lower control arms? I know the bushings are shot and the ball joints (according to common sense and an alignment shop that wouldn't align my car because of it) and it seems like it would be cheaper and definitely easier to just buy new control arms instead of replacing the bushings and ball joints on them...
Are the reproduction control arms anything to stay away from? or are they just as strong or are the differences negligible?
And should I stick with the normal rubber bushings? My control arms already squeak (need grease) and it's rather annoying, so I don't want them to squeak with polyurethane bushings unless they are a lot better...
and is paying the extra $150 for roller coil spring saddles worth it? or should I just stick with rubber or polyurethane...
I don't have much money but all my suspension needs to be done, I'm just looking for the best improvements for the easiest and cheapest possible
Are the reproduction control arms anything to stay away from? or are they just as strong or are the differences negligible?
And should I stick with the normal rubber bushings? My control arms already squeak (need grease) and it's rather annoying, so I don't want them to squeak with polyurethane bushings unless they are a lot better...
and is paying the extra $150 for roller coil spring saddles worth it? or should I just stick with rubber or polyurethane...
I don't have much money but all my suspension needs to be done, I'm just looking for the best improvements for the easiest and cheapest possible
09-24-2009, 01:07 PM
#2
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 5,896
Yes, no, yes, and yes:P
I wouldn't bother rebuilding your current control arms. It's not worth the hassle, IMO. New control arms aren't that much, and to my knowledge there's nothing really wrong with the repros on the market.
Stick with rubber bushings. I suspect you'll be driving your car enough to care when it starts squeaking. My front end is all rubber bushed, aside from the sway bar, and I think it performs just fine.
Roller perches are worth every penny. I don't know of anyone here that runs them and isn't happy with them. They free up a lot of suspension bind, providing more responsive handling and better ride quality.
Depending on your budget, you may want to give John at Opentracker a call. He's a great guy and can get you set up with everything you need. Springs, control arms, and roller perches. The control arms in particular will be better quality than you'd otherwise get, as he rebuilds them before they even get to you. You could also get a roller idler if you want one, although it's not absolutely required.
If you're looking to save money, get some standard replacement control arms, 1" drop springs from wherever (you may want to look into stiffer springs than Jon and I run with your heavier car and motor), and roller perches from Day @ Dazecars.
I forget, what kind of shocks are you running?
Edit: btw, open shop is up and running at school on Tues/Thurs from 3-7, so we can probably get all of this done there.
I wouldn't bother rebuilding your current control arms. It's not worth the hassle, IMO. New control arms aren't that much, and to my knowledge there's nothing really wrong with the repros on the market.
Stick with rubber bushings. I suspect you'll be driving your car enough to care when it starts squeaking. My front end is all rubber bushed, aside from the sway bar, and I think it performs just fine.
Roller perches are worth every penny. I don't know of anyone here that runs them and isn't happy with them. They free up a lot of suspension bind, providing more responsive handling and better ride quality.
Depending on your budget, you may want to give John at Opentracker a call. He's a great guy and can get you set up with everything you need. Springs, control arms, and roller perches. The control arms in particular will be better quality than you'd otherwise get, as he rebuilds them before they even get to you. You could also get a roller idler if you want one, although it's not absolutely required.
If you're looking to save money, get some standard replacement control arms, 1" drop springs from wherever (you may want to look into stiffer springs than Jon and I run with your heavier car and motor), and roller perches from Day @ Dazecars.
I forget, what kind of shocks are you running?
Edit: btw, open shop is up and running at school on Tues/Thurs from 3-7, so we can probably get all of this done there.
09-24-2009, 01:29 PM
#3
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 2,990
Thanks for the response Tad, good info. I'll probably just stick with the standard replacement control arms then, as long as they are good enough quality. I know I don't have a large enough budget to warrant opentrackers stuff. I'll either get the spring saddles from them or from Daze, I haven't looked up the prices for daze's yet.
And you really think my front end is heavy enough to warrant the 620 lb springs? I've been going back and forth between the idea of the 540's or 620's myself, but didn't even think of the fact that my motor is heavier and the car is a couple hundred pounds heavier in itself.
I have no idea what shocks I'm running. I haven't even checked on my rears, but they're red I believe, that's all I know. There wasn't a brand on it that I saw. The fronts were blown when I got the car and I just replaced them with stock replacements (I believe) from a local mustang shop. This was 3 years ago though when i didn't know much better I'm probably looking to replace all my shocks as well, but definitely at least the rears because I know the fronts still do their job even though they aren't a performance shock.
That open shop time sounds good, I get out of class at 4 on tues/thurs so we should still have enough time, I could get to cuesta at 4:30 or 4:45 at the latest. If open shop was on monday I'd be free after 10 I just know I need to replace it all soon, I already know you'll laugh at my ride height when you see it
and you said you have the shelby drop template that I could use right? That'll save me 20 bucks haha
And you really think my front end is heavy enough to warrant the 620 lb springs? I've been going back and forth between the idea of the 540's or 620's myself, but didn't even think of the fact that my motor is heavier and the car is a couple hundred pounds heavier in itself.
I have no idea what shocks I'm running. I haven't even checked on my rears, but they're red I believe, that's all I know. There wasn't a brand on it that I saw. The fronts were blown when I got the car and I just replaced them with stock replacements (I believe) from a local mustang shop. This was 3 years ago though when i didn't know much better
I'm probably looking to replace all my shocks as well, but definitely at least the rears because I know the fronts still do their job even though they aren't a performance shock.That open shop time sounds good, I get out of class at 4 on tues/thurs so we should still have enough time, I could get to cuesta at 4:30 or 4:45 at the latest. If open shop was on monday I'd be free after 10
I just know I need to replace it all soon, I already know you'll laugh at my ride height when you see it and you said you have the shelby drop template that I could use right? That'll save me 20 bucks haha
09-24-2009, 01:41 PM
#5
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 678
dude i just put 620s on and they are not harsh at all...i really dont know where people get that from. maybe they are people who run 620s on rubber perches, then they probably suck big time, but yes roller perches are worth every dollar. got mine for 175$ from opentracker (he gave me a discount). very smooth. and i have "kill-your-back" KYB's and its still very smooth.
as far as the weight of your engine, an aluminum headed 351 will weigh about the same as a iron headed 289/302, so the difference is like 50 pounds or so.
and i actually have his template and drill bits lol, i havent given them back yet.
my class schedule it pretty hardcore this quarter, but let me know when you plan to work and ill see if i can swing by.
as far as the weight of your engine, an aluminum headed 351 will weigh about the same as a iron headed 289/302, so the difference is like 50 pounds or so.
and i actually have his template and drill bits lol, i havent given them back yet.
my class schedule it pretty hardcore this quarter, but let me know when you plan to work and ill see if i can swing by.
09-24-2009, 01:41 PM
#6
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location:
Posts: 230
Yes, no, yes, and yes:P
I wouldn't bother rebuilding your current control arms. It's not worth the hassle, IMO. New control arms aren't that much, and to my knowledge there's nothing really wrong with the repros on the market.
Stick with rubber bushings. I suspect you'll be driving your car enough to care when it starts squeaking. My front end is all rubber bushed, aside from the sway bar, and I think it performs just fine.
Roller perches are worth every penny. I don't know of anyone here that runs them and isn't happy with them. They free up a lot of suspension bind, providing more responsive handling and better ride quality.
Depending on your budget, you may want to give John at Opentracker a call. He's a great guy and can get you set up with everything you need. Springs, control arms, and roller perches. The control arms in particular will be better quality than you'd otherwise get, as he rebuilds them before they even get to you. You could also get a roller idler if you want one, although it's not absolutely required.
If you're looking to save money, get some standard replacement control arms, 1" drop springs from wherever (you may want to look into stiffer springs than Jon and I run with your heavier car and motor), and roller perches from Day @ Dazecars.
I forget, what kind of shocks are you running?
Edit: btw, open shop is up and running at school on Tues/Thurs from 3-7, so we can probably get all of this done there.
I wouldn't bother rebuilding your current control arms. It's not worth the hassle, IMO. New control arms aren't that much, and to my knowledge there's nothing really wrong with the repros on the market.
Stick with rubber bushings. I suspect you'll be driving your car enough to care when it starts squeaking. My front end is all rubber bushed, aside from the sway bar, and I think it performs just fine.
Roller perches are worth every penny. I don't know of anyone here that runs them and isn't happy with them. They free up a lot of suspension bind, providing more responsive handling and better ride quality.
Depending on your budget, you may want to give John at Opentracker a call. He's a great guy and can get you set up with everything you need. Springs, control arms, and roller perches. The control arms in particular will be better quality than you'd otherwise get, as he rebuilds them before they even get to you. You could also get a roller idler if you want one, although it's not absolutely required.
If you're looking to save money, get some standard replacement control arms, 1" drop springs from wherever (you may want to look into stiffer springs than Jon and I run with your heavier car and motor), and roller perches from Day @ Dazecars.
I forget, what kind of shocks are you running?
Edit: btw, open shop is up and running at school on Tues/Thurs from 3-7, so we can probably get all of this done there.
Yes, the roller spring perches are worth it. If you let John and Shari know that you are part of the forum they give you a $25 discount so they end up being $175. Well worth it in my opinion.
My suggestion is to go to the Opentracker website and shoot them an e-mail telling them what your budget is and how you want the car to perform and let John build a package to fit your budget. You could also do your suspension in stages if you didn't have enough money to do it all at once. Good luck with everything!
09-24-2009, 02:43 PM
#7
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 5,896
Jon, where did you get your coils? M+'s "620" coils are actually 560lb (which are what Opentracker sells). The 620 comes from the .620" wire diameter.
David, 2 hours isn't enough time to get all of that work done. The only way I'd be able to do that out there with your time constraints would be if you brought it and left it for me to work on for a while. Otherwise, you're going to have to do it in your garage/parking lot. I'd guess at maybe 3-5 hours labor time (on the lift), plus time for alignment, assuming no snags. Drilling those holes took me a good hour alone. It'll take more time if you do it on the ground without all of the proper tools handy.
I can get the car aligned for you after the work gets done. That'll only take an hour, if that. But you don't want to drive it before it gets aligned, except to get it out to the shop.
Definitely start looking at shocks. Monroe/Gabrial stock replacements aren't going to cut it with heavier springs. You'll be bouncing all over the road. KYB's are effective and inexpensive, but ride quality isn't fantastic with them. I love my Edelbrocks, and Maier Racing sells Bilsteins custom valved for stiffer springs.
David, 2 hours isn't enough time to get all of that work done. The only way I'd be able to do that out there with your time constraints would be if you brought it and left it for me to work on for a while. Otherwise, you're going to have to do it in your garage/parking lot. I'd guess at maybe 3-5 hours labor time (on the lift), plus time for alignment, assuming no snags. Drilling those holes took me a good hour alone. It'll take more time if you do it on the ground without all of the proper tools handy.
I can get the car aligned for you after the work gets done. That'll only take an hour, if that. But you don't want to drive it before it gets aligned, except to get it out to the shop.
Definitely start looking at shocks. Monroe/Gabrial stock replacements aren't going to cut it with heavier springs. You'll be bouncing all over the road. KYB's are effective and inexpensive, but ride quality isn't fantastic with them. I love my Edelbrocks, and Maier Racing sells Bilsteins custom valved for stiffer springs.
09-24-2009, 02:53 PM
#8
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location:
Posts: 230
I used one of those "step-up" or "uni" bits when I drilled my holes for the 1" Shelby drop. It was fast and easy. I just sprayed the bit with a little WD-40 while I was drilling and I was done in no time. I used one that went from 1/8" up to 1/2" and then used the 17/32" to finish everything off. It saves a lot of time by not having to switch bits all the time. I got mine from Sears and it was titanium coated. I spent like $30 on it. Well worth the less time and effort to me.
