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Resto-mod project

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Old 03-21-2011, 01:47 PM   #241
hightower2011
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Patch Panel in:


Engine bay metal work is mostly done. Now all I need to deal with is those shock tower holes. How should I deal with them?


Next I moved onto a patch of rust I cut out:


As of now (I ran out of welding gas, AGAIN, so I'm waiting to finish the lower lip of it) It's almost done. I know it's not the best patch, but I'm fine with it:
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Old 03-22-2011, 01:20 PM   #242
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Good job. Its nice to see you making some progress! Keep up the good work.
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Old 05-02-2011, 09:52 PM   #243
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And here you all thought I was dead! Not so!
Looky here friends! Progress! I feel as if I've mad a HUGE leap in progress now that it's on the rotisserie. I have good access to the underside and will be blasting soon. Followed by SPI epoxy underneath. Then I need to decide what to do. Undercoating?



Another angle. This rotisserie is great! Two spots to patch on this quarter and I'm good to prime it!


Also stripped the entire trunk back to metal (took FOREVER) and threw some primer on it:
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Old 05-02-2011, 09:58 PM   #244
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are you able to freely rotate your car with the adjustments as shown in the photos? it appears higher on the axis than i've seen or experienced.

why the decision to not media blast the trunk area?
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Old 05-02-2011, 10:05 PM   #245
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are you able to freely rotate your car with the adjustments as shown in the photos? it appears higher on the axis than i've seen or experienced.

why the decision to not media blast the trunk area?
It's not as easy to rotate as I wanted but with 2 people it can be done and locked into position for me to work on alone.

And I'm using a sandblaster so I was a little skeptical about using it on anything other than the underside and floor pans.
But it really comes down to the fact that I don't yet have my sandblaster hooked up. :P
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Old 05-02-2011, 10:10 PM   #246
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adjust the center of gravity and you'll be able to move it with one hand. i wouldn't want it locked into position with it that far off.
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Old 05-02-2011, 11:38 PM   #247
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WOW Chip this is coming out great!! Keep up the good work! Wish I can do that
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Old 05-03-2011, 08:02 AM   #248
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adjust the center of gravity and you'll be able to move it with one hand. i wouldn't want it locked into position with it that far off.
What do you suggest I do?

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WOW Chip this is coming out great!! Keep up the good work! Wish I can do that
Thanks man! Luckily you've got a nice car anyways! You don't need to bother with a rotisserie!
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Old 05-03-2011, 09:40 AM   #249
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Good to see you back, I was wondering what happened after the 351 stuff. You're making progress and it looks good!!!
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Old 05-03-2011, 10:14 AM   #250
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On your patch pieces in the body only use the grinder to take away about 80% of the weld height. Then use a 40 grit flap wheel to take it down close to the metal surface and finish it with an 80 flap wheel. Don't use the grinder and nick the finished surface like you did. It will turn out much better and be less work.
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Old 05-03-2011, 11:57 AM   #251
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Good to see you back, I was wondering what happened after the 351 stuff. You're making progress and it looks good!!!
Yeah the 351w has been a crapshoot. It's not a roller and needs a huge bore. I'm still in the planning stage of what to do next. Last ditch effort I've got a perfectly functioning 289 2V from the '67 stang with a C4 trans I can drop right in.

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On your patch pieces in the body only use the grinder to take away about 80% of the weld height. Then use a 40 grit flap wheel to take it down close to the metal surface and finish it with an 80 flap wheel. Don't use the grinder and nick the finished surface like you did. It will turn out much better and be less work.
Thanks for the tip! I need to pick up an air grinder anyways so I'll get 40 and 80 grit flap wheels to go with it.
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Old 05-03-2011, 05:20 PM   #252
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What do you suggest I do?
simply adjust the one bracket on the front and back so that the pivot point is about the center of mass for your car.

imagine trying to balance a 10 foot pole with one hand at a location 1 foot from the end versus near the center of its mass.

the following picture of mine shows where it was the happiest you almost won't need a latch if you don't push on it. each car will be slightly different.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 05-03-2011, 08:17 PM   #253
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Adjust in which way? Vertically or horizontally? And do you mean adjust one side in the front and the opposite side in the back? Or both sides?

Sorry for the questions but we spent a lot of time fabricating the attachments for the bumper mounts so I'm hesitant to change things.
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Old 05-03-2011, 08:42 PM   #254
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Originally Posted by hightower2011 View Post
Adjust in which way? Vertically or horizontally? And do you mean adjust one side in the front and the opposite side in the back? Or both sides?

Sorry for the questions but we spent a lot of time fabricating the attachments for the bumper mounts so I'm hesitant to change things.
you don't need to refab anything. you just need to adjust what you have.

see the arrow in the following picture? that's the axis. you want that axis going through the center of mass of the car. right now your car is way to low on the axis so most of the mass is on the bottom. if you don't lock your pin your car the way it's positioned will want to naturally spin to have the bottom towards the floor. raise the car too high on that imaginary axis line and the roof will want to naturally rotate towards the floor. move the axis to far right on the car and the opposite side will rotate towards the floor.

adjust up/down/left/right until you find that balancing point.

if you were to rotisserie roast a hog would you put the pin in the center of the pig or would you put it all the way to one side?

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 05-03-2011, 09:17 PM   #255
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Ahhhh, now I see what you mean. That makes perfect sense! Thanks for the tip! I'll adjust it ASAP.
Btw I'm super jealous of your '69, that's my favorite year of mustang, for the fastback. Don't care too much for the '69 Coupe, I like '68 Coupes best of all.
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Old 05-10-2011, 02:12 PM   #256
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ANDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD, done, finally with those stupid patches. But guess what, I have to fill ALL the little holes from the bumper guard trim that used to be on the doors and fender. I'm considering trashing my fenders and using the ones off my '67 cause they're in great condition and actually have all the emblems drilled for a '68.
Also have two small patches to do in the door.
Anyways, here's my final patch on the quarters, sorry the second pic came out bad. You'd think I'm trying to cover up my bad work, but I'll admit up front my patches look like crap anyways. It'll call for some bondo like any other patch.





AT LAST I can get to the underside! Media Blasting should start soon. Gotta sort the last of my problems with the air lines.
Also picked up a set of rims for a steal. Will update when I receive them.
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Old 06-01-2011, 08:33 PM   #257
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WOW!! Looking good!!
Sorry it took so long to check your thread out, you've given me some inspiration now!!
Lynn
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Old 06-01-2011, 08:38 PM   #258
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How did you weld your cowl in?

Did you buy welded together cowl or did you get the separate 2 part cowl?

I got a full welded together Dynacorn cowl with mine. Did you have to drill about 180 holes through the whole cowl and weld it in?

What did you do with the all the holes drilled in the lower cowl? Weld them up before putting the new one on?

I noticed my new '65 cowl has 4 bolting points for the fresh air vent compared to the 3 hole fresh air vent that is stock, so I got to do something about that when I go to do it.

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Old 06-01-2011, 08:45 PM   #259
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spray a weld thru primer before you weld the cowl back on.
No offense, but I've discovered weld through primer is pure evil....

I have nothing but trouble with it even if it scraped from the area of parts to be welded. I'll blow chunks out of new metal like a someone taking a bite of a sandwich. No matter how I dial my MIG in I have problems. I remove the stuff completely or better yet, don't use it and I have zero problems.

I should have listened to the guy that shown me how to weld and not use the stuff. He said to just weld the clean metal and seal the edges with sealer and your good to go, he called weld through primer nothing but a gimmick to sell people a product. The more people I have talked to about it have said the same thing.

So I threw mine out and I'll never look back.

Lynn
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Old 11-11-2011, 09:46 AM   #260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LynnBob Mustang View Post
How did you weld your cowl in?

Did you buy welded together cowl or did you get the separate 2 part cowl?

I got a full welded together Dynacorn cowl with mine. Did you have to drill about 180 holes through the whole cowl and weld it in?

What did you do with the all the holes drilled in the lower cowl? Weld them up before putting the new one on?

I noticed my new '65 cowl has 4 bolting points for the fresh air vent compared to the 3 hole fresh air vent that is stock, so I got to do something about that when I go to do it.

Lynn
Lynn,

Sorry it's taken so long to get back to you. I've been 200 miles away from my 'stang at college, so I've yet to get back to work on it.
Anyways, I ordered a Dynacorn welded together cowl. Most people separate them and re-weld them together after treating the inside with extra rust proofing. I just left mine alone cause I didn't want to mess them up. And yes I drilled over 100 holes and welded it in, as well as welding the seams around in many places. It's not pretty but after grinding and body work it'll look fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LynnBob Mustang View Post
No offense, but I've discovered weld through primer is pure evil....

I have nothing but trouble with it even if it scraped from the area of parts to be welded. I'll blow chunks out of new metal like a someone taking a bite of a sandwich. No matter how I dial my MIG in I have problems. I remove the stuff completely or better yet, don't use it and I have zero problems.

I should have listened to the guy that shown me how to weld and not use the stuff. He said to just weld the clean metal and seal the edges with sealer and your good to go, he called weld through primer nothing but a gimmick to sell people a product. The more people I have talked to about it have said the same thing.

So I threw mine out and I'll never look back.

Lynn
Yeah I never bothered with weld through primer and this is a re-assuring thought. I have enough trouble with welding in the first place, so that primer would've probably caused me more trouble.




I hope to get back to work on the mustang in december. I've got a month off from college, so it should be a chance to freeze my butt off while hopefully finishing the underside of the car.
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Old 11-11-2011, 09:46 AM
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