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Old 09-21-2010, 10:09 PM   #121
hightower2011
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Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Also did about 2/3 of the hood until i ran out of primer.

Click the image to open in full size.

There is seriously so much paint dust/chips in my barn right now. I'll get a picture of it all soon. There is no way to contain it! I'm wearing a dust mask, hat, earplugs, and a full face shield and I still find myself spitting black/blue stuff after sanding... ewwwwwwwwww. My black '67 coupe has a nice layer of blue dust on it now, as does everything in the barn! Haha!


I also ordered a inner fender apron today so I've gotta get to practicing welding so I can get that sucker in soon!

And I'm gonna head to a local "pull-a-part" soon to find some GT40p heads. I'll be refurbishing them myself to stay on the cheap side but I'll probably replace all the moving parts like valve springs, etc.
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Old 09-22-2010, 06:51 AM   #122
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Why are you putting primer on it right away? It may be a mustang, but it's not going to rust over night. I think you are just creating extra work for your self by sanding and then priming right away.
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Old 09-22-2010, 07:04 AM   #123
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Why are you putting primer on it right away? It may be a mustang, but it's not going to rust over night. I think you are just creating extra work for your self by sanding and then priming right away.
Well I know that it's not going to rust immediately, but down here in GA I'm afraid it'll rust quickly since it's bare metal. Besides, my work is sporadic in that I am only able to work a few days at a time, so in one day I may sand a panel and not get around to anything else for a few days. So I don't want to leave the panel bare for those few days.


Besides, this is just a thin coat that will most likely be a base for an epoxy primer. Either way its NOT what the paint will go on.... There's more coats to come, of better primer.
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Old 09-22-2010, 08:23 AM   #124
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I understand what you are doing because that is what I did on sections of the inside of mine, however the inside will not be painted the same as the exterior rather it will be getting sprayed with lizard skin. Having said that, he is right, it will not rust I promise. I'm in Ohio and have had bare metal showing on the exterior for months. As tempting as it is, just realize when it comes time for the epoxy primer it's going to like sticking to bare metal much more than any rattle can product. Keep in mind it's also possible to "spot prime" with the epoxy as you work in sections. Not trying to be a know it all (because I really don't know that much) but I'm just trying to pass along the knowledge I have gained from my experience, as well as talking to body shops, painters, etc.

Keep up the good work! Love seeing the pics!
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Old 09-22-2010, 08:24 AM   #125
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Places with high humidity the morning dew will give you nice little rust spots.Dust mask suck i wear a respirator even sanding i know it sounds crazy but i like breathing.
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Old 09-22-2010, 10:08 AM   #126
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I understand what you are doing because that is what I did on sections of the inside of mine, however the inside will not be painted the same as the exterior rather it will be getting sprayed with lizard skin. Having said that, he is right, it will not rust I promise. I'm in Ohio and have had bare metal showing on the exterior for months. As tempting as it is, just realize when it comes time for the epoxy primer it's going to like sticking to bare metal much more than any rattle can product. Keep in mind it's also possible to "spot prime" with the epoxy as you work in sections. Not trying to be a know it all (because I really don't know that much) but I'm just trying to pass along the knowledge I have gained from my experience, as well as talking to body shops, painters, etc.

Keep up the good work! Love seeing the pics!
Would you recommend using rattle can epoxy primer? I know it's a bit late to switch over but better late than never. :/

I do have a paint sprayer, that I have used before, and I could probably use it for the primer. However, the issue for me is not just that I cannot work every day, but the days I do work I only get to work 2-3 hours a day, until the weekend of course. So setup and cleanup take away a lot of time, plus I have to sand the paint off beforehand.
These are all reasons why I decided to go with the rattle can to quickly cover the bare metal.

And would the epoxy primer stick well to the primer I've laid down already? I was under the impression that it would, which is why I started with this standard sandable primer.

Thanks for the advice and encouragement!

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Originally Posted by andrewmp6 View Post
Places with high humidity the morning dew will give you nice little rust spots.Dust mask suck i wear a respirator even sanding i know it sounds crazy but i like breathing.
This would be my issue. My car is in a barn, not climate controlled obviously. And GA is always humid.
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Old 09-22-2010, 11:27 AM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hightower2011 View Post
Would you recommend using rattle can epoxy primer? I know it's a bit late to switch over but better late than never. :/

I do have a paint sprayer, that I have used before, and I could probably use it for the primer. However, the issue for me is not just that I cannot work every day, but the days I do work I only get to work 2-3 hours a day, until the weekend of course. So setup and cleanup take away a lot of time, plus I have to sand the paint off beforehand.
These are all reasons why I decided to go with the rattle can to quickly cover the bare metal.

And would the epoxy primer stick well to the primer I've laid down already? I was under the impression that it would, which is why I started with this standard sandable primer.

Thanks for the advice and encouragement!



This would be my issue. My car is in a barn, not climate controlled obviously. And GA is always humid.
I spot prime with epoxy all the time. Only takes a couple of minutes to clean the gun, I use MEK for cleanup. You're not going to find inexpensive epoxy in a rattle can since its a 2 part mix, at least a "real" epoxy. Don't buy into the claims of some rattle can companies, if its not a 2 part its not epoxy. Clean up is less than 5 minutes.

I'd never spray epoxy over anything other than bare metal. My main reason for using epoxy is for its bonding strength. You spray it over cheap primer, it will stick to the primer but the primer doesn't have the strength to the bare metal that the epoxy would. IMO, it would be a waste of a great primer. Even worse if you shoot a zinc primer.

On another note, I don't care what the guy at autobodystore.com says, you can fill over epoxy. There is nothing that will stick to bare metal like epoxy, definitely not a polyester resin based filler. When it comes to composites epoxy is the best followed by vinylester. Poly is garbage. Again, primer manufacturers will let you know which of their primers can be filled over. Make sure you follow the instructions, epoxy resins will anime blush, if you don't wash it off nothing will stick to it.

Just make sure you get the right primer for bare metal and filler. I'm using Dupont Zinc Chromate. I think you'll be safe with any of the epoxy bare metal primers that zinc in them.
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Old 09-22-2010, 12:36 PM   #128
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Yes, Mr Velocity is dead on with everything he said. We also can only work 2-3 hours a day, maybe 3 days a week; and then 6-8 hours on the weekend. I find if I leave a panel on the ground in my shop (not climate controlled) it will start to surface rust, but as far as the metal on the car you should be fine. Here is a little step chart that we follow:

1. Strip paint/primer off body panel section off entire panel
2. Do any welding/patch panel repair
3. Grind and clean that up
4. Clean area with wax & grease remover
5. Spray with coats of Epoxy primer over entire panel (obviously stopping here until the whole car is primed)
6. Do the body filler work and clean that up
7. Spray again with Epoxy primer
8. 2K primer, block sand, repeat
9. paint and clear

If you find that you have some areas of oxidation the day you are going to prime just scuff them up with 180 or so and they'll come right out. Also, to get the paint off that you have already sprayed - get yourself 2 or 3 bottles of Aircraft Remover, spray it on and let it sit for 10 minutes or so then just wire wheel it off. You might as well leave it on for now until then rest of the car is stripped. You are doing great.
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Old 09-22-2010, 09:11 PM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoReins View Post
Yes, Mr Velocity is dead on with everything he said. We also can only work 2-3 hours a day, maybe 3 days a week; and then 6-8 hours on the weekend. I find if I leave a panel on the ground in my shop (not climate controlled) it will start to surface rust, but as far as the metal on the car you should be fine. Here is a little step chart that we follow:

1. Strip paint/primer off body panel section off entire panel
2. Do any welding/patch panel repair
3. Grind and clean that up
4. Clean area with wax & grease remover
5. Spray with coats of Epoxy primer over entire panel (obviously stopping here until the whole car is primed)
6. Do the body filler work and clean that up
7. Spray again with Epoxy primer
8. 2K primer, block sand, repeat
9. paint and clear

If you find that you have some areas of oxidation the day you are going to prime just scuff them up with 180 or so and they'll come right out. Also, to get the paint off that you have already sprayed - get yourself 2 or 3 bottles of Aircraft Remover, spray it on and let it sit for 10 minutes or so then just wire wheel it off. You might as well leave it on for now until then rest of the car is stripped. You are doing great.
I stopped by Glazier Nolan (mustang barn) today. OMG, I was in heaven. Nicest people you'll ever meet and willing to give their secrets. They did mention that they spray epoxy primer, especially when they have the car cut up so they can get all around the inside of the wheel wells. I'll post a couple of pics in my thread tomorrow when I get the pics off my phone.
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Old 09-22-2010, 09:29 PM   #130
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Alright, I think I'm gonna make the switch then. Thanks for the advice guys. And thanks for that list NoReins, it's a big help in getting me going in the right direction. It sucks hearing I could've done this in the first place, but like I said before, better late than never!

NoReins what epoxy primer did you go with?

And MrVelocity you go with Dupont Zinc Chromate?



I guess I'll just re-strip the re-primed areas? that kinda sucks.... But like you said NoReins, I guess I'll just use stripper since there's no need to sand it again.

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Old 09-22-2010, 09:29 PM
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