Resto-mod project
#71
Ahhhh! Confusion!!!
So I decoded the mustang today by taking a look at the VIN number on the dashboard on the drivers side. It's faded but I could read the letters and numbers.
Here's the code: 8R01C100380
Great, that tells me the car is ACTUALLY a 1968. But I was told it was originally a 1967...
Reasons to believe it's a 1967:
-1967 style scoops
-1967 steering column (unlike collapsible 1968 style [although I heard the collapsible column was a late '68 installment???])
-Lack of rear quarter panel reflectors
-Was told buy the guy I bought it from it started as a 1967
Reasons to believe it's a 1968:
-The vin found in the dash (could have just been tossed in there along with other parts, although it's been registered under this VIN for years)
-Grille appears to be a 1968, correct me if I'm wrong though
I guess I have to pull the driver side front fender off to find out for sure? Unfortunately the door mounted plate got smashed in the wreck, I don't know where it is.
The reason I'm wondering this is I'm about to order a gas tank and gas fuel line, and while the differences between the two years are minor, I want to make sure I get exactly the right parts.
Any suggestions or advice to confirm which year exactly it is?
So I decoded the mustang today by taking a look at the VIN number on the dashboard on the drivers side. It's faded but I could read the letters and numbers.
Here's the code: 8R01C100380
Great, that tells me the car is ACTUALLY a 1968. But I was told it was originally a 1967...
Reasons to believe it's a 1967:
-1967 style scoops
-1967 steering column (unlike collapsible 1968 style [although I heard the collapsible column was a late '68 installment???])
-Lack of rear quarter panel reflectors
-Was told buy the guy I bought it from it started as a 1967
Reasons to believe it's a 1968:
-The vin found in the dash (could have just been tossed in there along with other parts, although it's been registered under this VIN for years)
-Grille appears to be a 1968, correct me if I'm wrong though
I guess I have to pull the driver side front fender off to find out for sure? Unfortunately the door mounted plate got smashed in the wreck, I don't know where it is.
The reason I'm wondering this is I'm about to order a gas tank and gas fuel line, and while the differences between the two years are minor, I want to make sure I get exactly the right parts.
Any suggestions or advice to confirm which year exactly it is?
#73
#74
67 quarters, 67 steering column, 67 door panels, 67 front fenders, 67 fender emblems, and looks like 67 seats. It does have 68 instrument panel, grille, and wheels.
Last edited by 1slow67; 05-19-2010 at 10:09 PM.
#76
Little Update.
I found a leak from the fuel pump to the carb that oprinated from the fuel filter, so I'll probably just replace that whole section of line. I also am getting a new tank and fuel line because that's where my previous problem came from.
I also discovered a bad leak from in between the carb and the engine block, so I'm hoping thats just an old gasket that's gone bad.
Hopefully by next week I'll be ready (have the equipment) to pull the engine, and start work on refinishing the engine bay.
As for the body work, I'm getting in contact with a local body shop guy who's a friend of mine who will hopefully come out and look at the mustang, and give me a word or two of advice on how to go about things. Until then, I'm not gonna mess with it.
I found a leak from the fuel pump to the carb that oprinated from the fuel filter, so I'll probably just replace that whole section of line. I also am getting a new tank and fuel line because that's where my previous problem came from.
I also discovered a bad leak from in between the carb and the engine block, so I'm hoping thats just an old gasket that's gone bad.
Hopefully by next week I'll be ready (have the equipment) to pull the engine, and start work on refinishing the engine bay.
As for the body work, I'm getting in contact with a local body shop guy who's a friend of mine who will hopefully come out and look at the mustang, and give me a word or two of advice on how to go about things. Until then, I'm not gonna mess with it.
#77
That VIN number decodes into a very early 1968 model. The consecutive unit numbers started in each year at 100001 and went from there. You have the 379th car down the line for 1968. I don't know how many of the other 378 before it have been accounted for, but you MIGHT have the earliest known 68 still around. Just FYI. I would get a Marti report on it to find out where it stands.
#78
(Another Update, July 8th 2010)
It's been a while. My computer was upgraded so I haven't had it for a while and just got it back a few days ago (windows 7 is kinda cool). I just got a full time job in Atlanta so the mustangs got little attention for a few weeks. Anyways, in the past few weeks I've gotten back to it. I'll upload some pics soon to show my progress.
But yet again I've changed my plan. I talked to my friend (body shop guy at a ford dealership, also works on classics) and he said that while I COULD fix the damage on the '67, it was a better idea to swap over the parts and completely restore the '68 as a V8.
So now I'm stripping down the '68. I'll be using the entire suspension, drive train, engine, trans, fenders, headlight buckets, doors, trunk lid, seats, and other parts from the '67 on the '68. So it'll be a Frankenstein until I get it sanded and primed, haha.
Progress wise, I've drained all fluids and finally got an engine hoist so hopefully I'll be pulling the engine and trans this weekend. Once I'm done with the engine bay and firewall, I'll be putting it on a rotisserie (still have to build one) and pulling the I6 suspension.
It's been a while. My computer was upgraded so I haven't had it for a while and just got it back a few days ago (windows 7 is kinda cool). I just got a full time job in Atlanta so the mustangs got little attention for a few weeks. Anyways, in the past few weeks I've gotten back to it. I'll upload some pics soon to show my progress.
But yet again I've changed my plan. I talked to my friend (body shop guy at a ford dealership, also works on classics) and he said that while I COULD fix the damage on the '67, it was a better idea to swap over the parts and completely restore the '68 as a V8.
So now I'm stripping down the '68. I'll be using the entire suspension, drive train, engine, trans, fenders, headlight buckets, doors, trunk lid, seats, and other parts from the '67 on the '68. So it'll be a Frankenstein until I get it sanded and primed, haha.
Progress wise, I've drained all fluids and finally got an engine hoist so hopefully I'll be pulling the engine and trans this weekend. Once I'm done with the engine bay and firewall, I'll be putting it on a rotisserie (still have to build one) and pulling the I6 suspension.
#80
Progress!
Somebody helped today:
So the front and rear suspension are finally off. Just need to finish up the engine bay and firewall and it's ready to go to the rotisserie I hope!!!
Also, paid a friend of mine a visit. Took a look at his chevelle again and took a video of it running (will upload it ASAP).
I also discussed what transmission he suggested. He suggested an automatic for comfort and also for drag racing. To him it was worth it to upgrade an automatic than run a manual that includes human error.
Now, I can drive a manual no problem, but since I want this car to be a daily driver as well, I think it's a good idea to stick with the C4 for comfort and to exclude human error. Also, I already have 2 C4s on hand, so that will be one less expense.
Thoughts? I'm really all ears to all opinions.
Somebody helped today:
So the front and rear suspension are finally off. Just need to finish up the engine bay and firewall and it's ready to go to the rotisserie I hope!!!
Also, paid a friend of mine a visit. Took a look at his chevelle again and took a video of it running (will upload it ASAP).
I also discussed what transmission he suggested. He suggested an automatic for comfort and also for drag racing. To him it was worth it to upgrade an automatic than run a manual that includes human error.
Now, I can drive a manual no problem, but since I want this car to be a daily driver as well, I think it's a good idea to stick with the C4 for comfort and to exclude human error. Also, I already have 2 C4s on hand, so that will be one less expense.
Thoughts? I'm really all ears to all opinions.
Last edited by hightower2011; 08-19-2010 at 10:38 AM.