Strut Rod Bushings
#21
I have had poly bushings for 20 years without a problem but I had a buddy with a cougar who had them and first broke a strut rod and then broke the mount, I wonder if ride height has to do with it, his sat higher than stock, the others I have seen break were stock height, mine has had the shelby drop and trimmed coils since I did the install, I'll be looking into the aftermarket rods as well.
#22
I really appreciate all of you guys input. I think at least for the time being, I am going to replace the poly with stock rubber. I am going to consider those aftermarket strut rods for a later time.
Last edited by tx65coupe; 07-26-2010 at 04:59 AM.
#23
I fitted new rubber ones recently as my old ones were shot, however I am at present fitting global west adj. strut rods, I was going to go with opentrakker ones but these came up local (in den haag) and cheap, well for europe anyway. So I hope to tell you difference when I finish the job between the adj. and new rubber bushing soon.
#24
I just replaced my stock strut rods and rubber bushings for adjustable units with rod ends and while I can't offer a comparison yet, due to not have had it realigned, another consideration is unsprung weight.
Those stock rods are pigs, because they are being subjected to bending and tension forces. Rods with rod ends are not subjected to bending forces, and thus can be, and are, made much lighter.
Not sure who said it earlier in the post, but strut rods are in tension when braking and will cause toe out, not toe in.
Not that it matters, I don't want it changing during braking one way or the other.
Those stock rods are pigs, because they are being subjected to bending and tension forces. Rods with rod ends are not subjected to bending forces, and thus can be, and are, made much lighter.
Not sure who said it earlier in the post, but strut rods are in tension when braking and will cause toe out, not toe in.
Not that it matters, I don't want it changing during braking one way or the other.
#26
I had my driver side strut rod break on me a while ago. I was incredibly lucky to have this happen because on a speed bump on my parking lot. I don't want to think about what would have happened if it had broken on the freeway. When I brought it in for repair I was told the same thing: poly bushings = wrong, at least in this '68 apparently. I had both bushings replace with rubber ones.
#27
Will do so when I get a 39mm socket as they are really hard to get in the Netherlands. So far I noticed the index to frame description, means they need to be put in with aid of a persuader, i.e. a plastic/copper hammer. Having said that they look to be easy to adjust and well made.
#28
Right now I am going to use a pair of these.
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...sp?T1=SB64D+01
I find it odd that they are 10 dollars each, so 20 bucks total and these are 45 dollars. Whats the difference?
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...sp?T1=K8122+01
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...sp?T1=SB64D+01
I find it odd that they are 10 dollars each, so 20 bucks total and these are 45 dollars. Whats the difference?
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...sp?T1=K8122+01
#29
I had my driver side strut rod break on me a while ago. I was incredibly lucky to have this happen because on a speed bump on my parking lot. I don't want to think about what would have happened if it had broken on the freeway. When I brought it in for repair I was told the same thing: poly bushings = wrong, at least in this '68 apparently. I had both bushings replace with rubber ones.
#30
Will do so when I get a 39mm socket as they are really hard to get in the Netherlands. So far I noticed the index to frame description, means they need to be put in with aid of a persuader, i.e. a plastic/copper hammer. Having said that they look to be easy to adjust and well made.