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1965 fast back with major rust

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Old 10-25-2010, 03:30 PM
  #41  
SJs 66coupe
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Originally Posted by mr_velocity
Did you ever use the doors? I'm trying to figure out if I should fight the battle to save my doors or replace them.
I would fight the battle. My driver side door we could save and the other is a repop.

Let's put it this way....I am thinking of trying to find an original door that can be repaired and painted to match on the local Craigs list or something along those lines.
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Old 10-25-2010, 03:58 PM
  #42  
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Keep up the good work- it's not easy but you are doing it!
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Old 10-25-2010, 06:46 PM
  #43  
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Many of us understand where your at and it is a long process. The thing of it is when your finished the feeling of knowing just what you've done is rewarding. Its quite a bit different then buying one already finished and simply being the owner. When its completed all the work and frustration will have been worth it.

Keep going and remember to take a break from the project now and then. Then return to it refreshed, focus on 1 thing, get it done and move onto another area.
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Old 10-25-2010, 08:15 PM
  #44  
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Stick with original tooling items. Money well spent. Not much choice on the floor. Be sure you get the full floor with the groove for the emergency brake cable. The early ones did not.
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Old 10-26-2010, 05:45 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Adrenolin
Many of us understand where your at and it is a long process. The thing of it is when your finished the feeling of knowing just what you've done is rewarding. Its quite a bit different then buying one already finished and simply being the owner. When its completed all the work and frustration will have been worth it.

Keep going and remember to take a break from the project now and then. Then return to it refreshed, focus on 1 thing, get it done and move onto another area.
+1 !! Just remember, anyone can write a check, but only a few can actually leave their fingerprint. Keep up the good work we all know it'll be awesome when it's done.
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Old 10-29-2010, 08:46 PM
  #46  
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THANK YOU ALL VERY MUCH! For the words of encouragement. It's very much appreciated. I have a new found respect for anyone who has done a job like this. It's a lot more work then I expected. I'll finish it though.

So I'm finally starting to put things back on. I put the floor in, it looks close. Then I put the inner fender well on. Haha, I had to laugh. It reminded me of the movie Jaws when the guy says "We're going to need a bigger boat." haha, I'm think I'm going to need a bigger hammer! haha Everything seems to be off just a little. But each problem makes the next part worse, then the next worse then before. Oh wow. This is going to take some patience for sure. I'll get it though.

Thank you all once again for the great advice, all of it.
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Old 11-09-2010, 11:22 AM
  #47  
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Alright, I'm still workin' on it. I've had the entire back on. It doesn't fit! I think these replacement parts aren't that bad if your adding one or two pieces. But when your re-doing a large area, that first piece being an eighth too wide, then the second piece is too. By the time you get to the forth or fifth piece your a half inch from where you should be. ...Still better then trying to make the parts yourself, right?

So where the quarter connects to the body, there is a factory lead seam. What are most people doing there? Am I going to have to learn how to do lead work?!?!

Here is a link to pictures of what's new on the car. Ahhh! I went out of order on the pics. When you link to it, click "previous pic" to go in order. Sorry.
https://mustangforums.com/forum/memb...new-piece.html

Last edited by bent metal; 11-09-2010 at 11:25 AM.
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Old 11-09-2010, 11:49 AM
  #48  
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The lead can be removed by using a torch. Wear a mask, gloves and goggles and slowly allow the flame to melt the lead and use a wire brush to help it along. When you weld the new quarter on, you should use a high quality body filler AFTER the you epoxy primer the body. Lead isn't necessary unless you are restoring a car to factory specs.
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Old 11-09-2010, 12:21 PM
  #49  
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Looking good. I know what you mean about the parts, you show your rear qtr to the qtr extender piece being off. When I was at Glazier Noland they had the same problem, they had to cut the qrt and put a piece in to make it fit. Wasn't a pretty sight but in the end turned out perfect.
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Old 11-09-2010, 01:21 PM
  #50  
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We used a fiberglass based compound to build up the joint area. I want to say it was called Dynaglass? It worked out just fine.
Attached Thumbnails 1965 fast back with major rust-drv-qtr-welded2.jpg   1965 fast back with major rust-removing-drv-qtr3.jpg  
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