jcoby

cut the gasket so you can see the edge of the glass all the way around first but yeah you can just push it out using constant pressure without making a huge mess of things. have someone there to catch it or you'll get glass everywhere or dent something if it falls.

Gregski

Well looks like steel wool was the secret weapon in this rust removal process. It worked very well to agitate the rust and allow the acid to eat it up. Also paper towels worked great around the edges to keep the acid in place and maintain wettness. One gallon of phosphoric acid is enough to do an entire roof.

I still need to remove the trim between the roof and the quarter panels and remove the windshield to clean out those edges and the ones around the rear window with a wire wheel. Then do a final once over of the whole thing and prep and clean it for primer.

Gregski

Got the windshield out just using my hands. I removed the metal trim carefully with my hands, and then used a screw driver to pop out the clips. I think if the molding was new I wouldn't be able to do it with my hands, but in this case it worked. The trim is in good shape, but I don't plan on using it anyway. Now it's time to clean up the opening.

JMD

That roof came out nice, good job.

Gregski

Ok, once I have everything squeeky clean I will need to do something to keep Mr. Rust from coming back. I think I know the number one answer, which is spray it with Epoxy Primer of some [good] kind.

The pros of Plan A ie epoxy primer are that it will definitely keep the rust at bay, ie keep the moisture out. The cons are that I need an air compressor and a paint gun to apply it. Well maybe, as some companies now make it in a special spray can that you pull a rip cord on and activate the chemicals then apply it.

Plan B which I got from some old timer painters is to primer the bare metal with regular primer, then right away paint it with some paint, any automotive paint. Let the paint be the sealer ie preventer of moisture and rust. Then when it's time to get the vehicle painted [for real] you scuff up the paint and use it as filler and take it from there. If I go this route I plan on rattle canning it with flat black over the primer.

QUESTIONS

1. Has anyone ever used epoxy primer in a spray can, and would you recommend it?

2. What about my plan B?

3. Any other ideas?

be gentle, I'm learning here

mr_velocity

I never used primer in a can before but have sprayed a lot of epoxy primer on boats and now for the first time on a car.

Plan B - If you value your time do it right once ie plan A

If you're going to be restoring your car then its time get start collecting the right tools. Get yourself a compressor, they are cheap on craigslist. I picked up a Quincy compressor, brand new, on craigslist for $650. This is a $2500 compressor (there is a pic on my resto thread). You should be able to get a nice smaller compressor for under $100. My neighbor his compressor at a garage sale yesterday, 15 gallon tank, for $35.

Adrenolin

Now that you've got it cleaned up give it a coat of POR-15. A pint at 29.95 is all you need and it can be brushed on or sprayed, your choice. The stuff is like water and goes a long way. The pint will do 2 coats on the roof and you'll have some left over. Make sure you use something to etch the metal so its not smooth. I light sanding or a chemical like Phosphoric acid or Metal-Ready and cleaning. Give it 2 days then a light sanding basically to take the gloss off and your set.

Works great! The longer it sits the harder it gets. I found that after about 2 to 3 weeks the stuff is VERY hard... like I couldn't scratch it with a screw driver unless I pressed down really hard.

It really does protect the metal.

Edit.. I have to agree with what mr velocity is saying regarding tools. A compressor really is something you should get right away. If your tight on cash start out with something like the Porter Cable 150 psi. 6 Gal pancake compressor. Yes its just a small unit but it' one of the best available right now. While you couldn't use it to spray a full car you can spray sections, use small air tools, etc with it. For about 200.00 bucks you'll get a lot of use out of this little guy. You'll want a larger unit but this will get you started while you look around for a larger one.

mr_velocity

I'm a new user to POR15, what would he do for a finish coat over the top when he's ready to paint. I've heard a lot of 'stories' about getting anything to stick to it because its so hard. I used it but I followed up with Chassis black or a 2k primer while it was still tacky.

You can find great deals on compressors, here is on in CA sorry not sure which area you're in but this will give you an idea.
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/tls/1984512127.html
or
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/tls/1964674576.html

Take your time on the search. My quincy was the buy of a lifetime, most 20 year old units cost more than I paid for this brand new one. There are a lot of smaller shops in trouble and things are going at HUGE discounts.

Then just pick up a cheap HVLP gun, it will be fine for primer. I use a cheaper gun for primer but a Iwata lph-400 for color.

I think the best advice I could give you that I haven't seen it mentioned yet. If money is tight SLOW DOWN. The PO of my car cut so many corners because of lack of $$ that he finally got frustrated and dumped the car. You could tell what he did when money was good because the work was outstanding. Then when money got tight he just slapped stuff together substituting silicon caulk for seam sealer, slapping in body filler etc. Take it easy, enjoy the resto, plan the next steps (both parts and tools) and build yourself a beautiful ride that you'll be proud of for a lifetime.

Adrenolin

Give it 2 to 3 days after it feels dry and then lightly sand it with 220 grit sandpaper or something about that grit. Your basically wanting to remove the smooth glossy finish making it a dull black. At this point you can either hit it with your epoxy primer or let it sit and hit it later.. doesn't matter as its protected now.

It can be dry as a bone and you can still spray a good epoxy primer on it so don't worry about that. The important thing is to lightly sand the gloss off and your fine.

I used about 1 & 3/4 gallons on our car however that's 3 coats on the chassis & inside fenders & quarters and engine bay, 2 coats inside on the floor, firewall, & dash. Roof, drip rails, pillars, and front & rear window lips, lower rockers, bottom of doors (inside and out) all had 2 coats. Large assortment of brackets and odds 'n ends were also coated.

I used their Chassiscoat Black (semi-gloss) topcoat in the engine bay and liked it a lot. Note that the topcoats are NOT chemical resistant however so if any brake fluid, etc gets on it wipe it up.

I used a product called Spectrum from SecondSkin Audio as a sound & vibration undercoat and sprayed it directly to the POR-15 without sanding it on the chassis. With 4500 miles on the car in the last year I've had no issues with it not sticking.

mr_velocity

Great thanks. Feel a whole lot better about all the POR that went into our car.