runningriot

I was able to score a 1965 2bl 289 in a trade for some parts I have no use for. My question is would this be a good block to build a stroker out of? I've been told that blocks from the 60s are stronger because of the higher nickel content, is that correct? How would this 289 compare to a late model 302 roller motor as far as which would be better for the build? Is the 4.030 bore going to cause heating issues in a 289?

My goal would be +400hp
- I would get the block machined for a one piece main seal.
- AFR 165cc or 185cc heads
- 1.6 roller rockers
- Ford Racing E303 hydraulic roller cam
- Edelbrock Air-Gap intake
- forged dished pistons

Thoughts and pointers appreciated. Thanks!

67mustang302

Either block is fine, but a later roller would be cheaper to build with a roller cam, which I'd always recommend. .030 should not be an issue.

Some other things....build a 347, cost is mostly the same but with a bigger punch. Use either the AFR 185's or TFS FAC heads, or a TEA ported head for a stroker. Don't use that E-cam on a stroker. I guarantee if you do, my 302 will make more power than your 347. Get a custom grind cam, I got mine from Ed Curtis at FTI. Cost is slightly higher than an OTS cam but with WAY better power and drivability/mileage.

As far as dish/flat pistons, get whatever puts you in the compression range you need for your application.

runningriot

Thanks for the info!

Reason I was leaning towards the 331 is that I've heard that the life of a 347 isn't as long as a 331 and that a 331 is a better balanced motor in general.

I currently have a roller 302 in my mustang, so I should just build a stroker out of that?

67mustang302

Build a 347. Get the assembly properly balanced and usr good parts and it will last a long time. The only advantage to building a 331 for street use is you don't have to notch the cylinders in the block for rod clearance.

Starfury

I tend to disagree here. A 347 isn't always the better choice. For some people it is, but a 331 has certain benefits that may appeal to you.

I chose a long rod 331 because of the better rod/stroke ratio that results in a slightly more durable engine, long term. Less side force on the pistons means less wear on the rings and cylinder walls. Granted, my car was a daily driver for quite a while (and may still be in the future), so it needs to last a long time. Yours may not fall under the same category. If you only put a couple thousand miles a year on it, it's basically a non-issue.

The other advantage to a 331 over a 347 is where the engine makes power. A 331 will be a little more windy than a 347. Again, benefit of rod:stroke ratio.

Another note, you DO need to notch the cylinder skirts in the block with a 331 if you chose to use the better style cap screw rod bolts. I did. Something to keep in mind.

runningriot

Thanks Starfury. What Hp numbers are you getting from your 331?

Side question. How will a 331 or 347 fare with a paxton supercharger (NOVI-1200 or NOVI-1500)?

Starfury

I haven't dyno'd the car, but with Trick Flow heads and a Magnum 280H cam, I'm guessing at ~350hp/350ft-lbs (based on some more optimistic numbers coming out of desktop dyno). More than enough to scoot my fastback around.

You could build either motor to accept some boost, you'd just have to factor that in while choosing components. Even with 6psi boost, it would be easy to get above the 400hp mark and still have a perfectly streetable motor.

However, I'd consider going with a 351W based stroker before choosing a blown 289/302 stroker. You can make much the same numbers out of a properly built 383 without having to worry about tuning with the blower.

runningriot

Here is where I'm at now.

87 GT 5.0 roller block with complete rebuild
stock 87 forged pistons
Trick Flow stage one cam
New dual timing chain and gear
Cran's 1:6 Roller Rockers
Edelbrock Air-Gap intake
Holley 4bbl dual feed
Tri-Y headers
Rebuild 93 GT-40 heads
8mm wires
Flowmaster exhaust 40 series
Aluminum Cobra air cleaner
3" tall Cobra valve covers
3 core aluminum Griffin radiator
Moroso front sump oil pan

If I do the stroker, I'd like to keep the car together so I can keep driving it while building the motor. I have the 65 289 sitting on a motor stand, but after reading other 331 builds I feel like a roller 302 as a base will save a lot of headache due to not having to deal with the roller cam conversion.

Or should I just ditch the whole idea because of what I've done to this 302 already? Instead upgrade the heads with a port and polish job or get a set of Aluminum heads?

67mustang302

If you have a choice between a longer rod or a longer stroke, ALWAYS take a longer stroke. ALWAYS.

GM's new LS7 is a production engine and it has a "terrible" rod ratio. Good pistons with coated skirts(like my Mahles, who also makes pistons for GM's LS engines) will last fine even with a terrible rod ratio.

Pick stroke first, THEN go for a longer rod.

If you're road racing and turning a ton of rpm, sure, a shorter stoke, longer rod engine might be better. But on a street engine that will likely never see 7k rpm, a 347 is always going to make more power over a wider rpm range than anything smaller with a longer rod. And other parts will wear out long before the rod ratio makes a difference, unless you use crap parts.

nba1341

eZ has a 347 very similar to the one you want to build

check out his dyno numbers

https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...car-today.html

400rwhp if thats what you meant by 400hp is going to be hard to come by