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Homebuilt coilover system

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Old 01-15-2011, 05:40 PM   #21
musnicki
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I'm trolling this topic as well. Keep us posted, more pictures.

Amazing work btw.

The link below goes to my facebook where I have some pictures of my front coils if you need some refrences. Let me know if you need me to take pictures of any particular area. I'm humbled by your work, I paid an arm and leg for mine.

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Old 01-15-2011, 07:15 PM   #22
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James/musnicki

Your link just brings me to facebook.com. It does not bring me to your page.

I got my shocks in yesterday and mocked them up. Ill try to do some welding this weekend and Im still waiting for the chromoly hex bar to show up for my UCA. Other than that I should be able to bolt it all up this week. Ill post detailed pics when I do the final installation. After that Ill try and break something by driving the bejesus out of it!
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Old 01-15-2011, 11:27 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregski View Post
So you're using MIG and not TIG?
There is no strength advantage to using TIG over MIG.
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Old 01-15-2011, 11:51 PM   #24
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I did consider this intially but if you look at the design of the original LCA it is not a straight line. Also How would you attach the sway bar to the afco? also the ball joint would set at the wrong angle on the afco, probably run into a binding issue. Just seemed really easy to make a bolt on mount.


These are a couple of pics of the tubular lower control arms I build for Mustangs and Falcons. Very similar to the AFCO units but I use 1 1/4" x .120" wall round tubing. For applications with a sway bar, I slug right through the tubing with a piece of 1/2" O.D. tubing to bolt the sway bar end link to. I also incorporate an adjustable strut rod as well:

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Old 01-16-2011, 12:36 AM   #25
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F15- Nice simple design on that strut rod. I was lazier and drilled a hole through the frame rail. I wanted to do it this way so that it would not shorten the arc of the strut rod. Im going to do away with the misalignment spacers and do a solid spacer all the way accross.


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Old 01-16-2011, 10:34 AM   #26
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Quote:
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. . . why do we pay upwards of $500 for tubular control arms while circle track and offroad guys pay about $100?.
Because most people don't look outside sources that say "Mustang" or "Ford" or the various sponsors of this and other Mustang forums. Good to see some out of the box thinking and DIY fabrication going on here.

Looking at sources like circle track racing supply houses is frequently a good, solid option, but I think you do have to be looking at your project more like the old-time hotrodders did than like the new breed of "checkbook car builders" seem to.

Sometimes, you might even have to consider modifying the part before installing it, or figuring out what else has to be changed. That's a problem for some folks.


(That said, the use of circle track upper arms is somewhat more widely known over on the boards that cater to the 1978 - 1987 GM intermediates; don't know why it seems to be such a secret here.)


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Old 01-18-2011, 06:07 PM   #27
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A little update...

Finished welding and boxing in the upper and lower mount. Turned out really well. No binding throughout the suspension travel. Im finishing up the upper control arm mount then that should be it!


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This is just mock up before I finish all the parts. Need to paint. and buy the right size bolts etc.
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Old 01-18-2011, 06:33 PM   #28
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Nice job, that will work great.
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Old 01-18-2011, 07:19 PM   #29
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F15--I have a setup that bolts directly to the stock mounting points. Its a coilover Tbar setup. It would work great with your setup
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Old 01-19-2011, 09:08 AM   #30
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who did you get your upper control arm from? Looks great and nice welds. Scott
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Old 01-19-2011, 09:58 AM   #31
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Hello EZ,

can you post the cost that you hae into this? i am inerested in doing this myself.
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Old 01-19-2011, 10:51 AM   #32
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Scott - The upper control arm is from UB Machine. They come already threaded for the heim joint. Im using chromoly hex bar to serve as the mount between the heim joints. Ill make more sense of it when I post a pic of it.

Monster Billy -- Ill post the cost I have into it when Im all done. Should be about a grand including coilovers and adjustable strut rods.
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Old 01-19-2011, 03:55 PM   #33
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Old 01-19-2011, 05:18 PM   #34
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Hey EZ, I noticed that the bolts holding the plates to the shock towers are stainless steels button head screws, did you know that stainless steel bolts are grade 2 at best? I would hate for the heads of the bolts to pop off.
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Old 01-19-2011, 08:36 PM   #35
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For the roller UCA I used a chromoly hex bar, threaded both ends to use a 5/8 bolt, then drilled out center for stock 1/2'' bolts that mount to firewall


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Uppers now installed. Everything fits great. I was going to put it down on its wheels today but when I went to tighten my steering ball joint it spun anf would not tighten...ugh


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One problem I think I might run into is the bump stop. It will hit the zirc fitting on the screw in ball joint. Can I remove it after lubbing and install something flat? I think I might trim the bump stop a bit as well.
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Old 01-19-2011, 08:40 PM   #36
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Hey EZ, I noticed that the bolts holding the plates to the shock towers are stainless steels button head screws, did you know that stainless steel bolts are grade 2 at best? I would hate for the heads of the bolts to pop off.
Yea thanks for noticing. Its just that I didnt have any grade 8 that would fit at the time. Ill get the proper length upon final installation. Ive been mocking up and taking notes. Ill take everything back off for paint then install with the proper bolts
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Old 01-20-2011, 12:18 PM   #37
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Prices include my cost to have parts shipped to my door. Only cost not entered is fabricating the shock mounts. I dont know what it would cost to fabricate these.

UCA-
UB Machine tubular heim joint -82$
4x5/8 heim joints with jam nuts -40$
chromoly hex bar - $32
4x 5/8'' and 4 x1/2'' grade 8 bolts ~5$
Total - $159 for the pair

Adjustable heim strut rods
2x 5/8 LH thread clevis $16
2x 14'' 5/8 Radius rod $25
2x5/8 heim joints with jam nuts $20
2x1/2'' grade 8 bolt w/ 4 washers ~4$
4x1/2''id 3/4od steel spacers ~12$
2x LH thread 5/8 nut $4
Total $81 for the pair

Grade 8 bolts for mounting shock mount and misc ~$40

Coilover shocks $380
coilover springs $95


total $775 for coilover system. Now if the mounts cost about $200 to manufacture im still under 1k for the complete system. I figured about $700 before I started so I came pretty close.
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Old 01-20-2011, 03:35 PM   #38
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That's some impressive work!

Can we get a mod to add this to the FAQ? I think a lot of people will be wanting to refer to it.
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Old 01-20-2011, 09:00 PM   #39
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I think you can get a bump stop that goes on the shock. That way you can take the one off the outer shock tower. Lookin good. Let us know how it handles. Scott
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Old 01-21-2011, 12:57 AM   #40
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I think you can get a bump stop that goes on the shock. That way you can take the one off the outer shock tower. Lookin good. Let us know how it handles. Scott
I know that bottoming out a shock can be a very bad thing. thats where you can get some sort of breakage. Putting the bump stop on the shock virtually makes it bottom out but just a bit softer. Im just going to trim the stock bump stop and it should be fine. I like car to sit really low otherwise the stock bump stop would be fine
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Old 01-21-2011, 12:57 AM
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