Homebuilt coilover system
#161
Best I can do.
The thick red line is the shock/spring with top and bottom pivot axes as shown. Extending that line needs to hit the centerline of the heavier "leg" as shown to avoid trying to bend the lighter-weight leg. As also mentioned, the sta-bar attachment needs to be arranged in similar fashion.
I hope buening doesn't mind me doing a grafitti job on his picture, but I'm not nearly good enough at CAD or even the computerized drafting available in MS Word/Excel to even think of putting something like this together from scratch.
Norm
The thick red line is the shock/spring with top and bottom pivot axes as shown. Extending that line needs to hit the centerline of the heavier "leg" as shown to avoid trying to bend the lighter-weight leg. As also mentioned, the sta-bar attachment needs to be arranged in similar fashion.
I hope buening doesn't mind me doing a grafitti job on his picture, but I'm not nearly good enough at CAD or even the computerized drafting available in MS Word/Excel to even think of putting something like this together from scratch.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 01-07-2012 at 06:09 PM.
#162
Buening...Hey man glad your giving it a go. I can post a pic for you when I get back from the gym. The motor is out of my car right now....it went kaboom. So the suspension is at full hang right now wich will give you a good idea. As far as the johnny joints I remember ther ebeing a problem with them size etc. I still have 2 johnny joints sitting in my tool box. I do know their advertised measurements were wrong. Im sure they fixed that problem.
Magnus. Let me see if I can find the drawings and have some made for you. either way I can get it done.
Magnus. Let me see if I can find the drawings and have some made for you. either way I can get it done.
I have started my winter project with adjustable strut rod and spherical bearings in the LCA.
DIY saves a hole lot`s of money, if I buy the TCP front end for 2600$ the price when I recive it in Sweden would be 3700$ ,so thats not an option;-)
The car I have is a 66 coupe with a 408 and a t5 bought from California in 2006, restored and painted last year in Limegold metalic.
/Magnus
#163
Okay in a effort to bring a thread back from the dead... and due to too many life/money issues creeping up, I'm finally (I think) ready to try this out. I have a question though. I was looking through Summits site and noticed QA1 DS601 which are about 1.75" longer (extended), 0.875" longer (compressed) and was wondering if I could use those and eliminate the 1" aluminum spacer up top? Any thoughts?
#164
I think that spacer allows installation without removing the original spring mount. I could be wrong but that's my observation. If that's all it's for than all you need to do is drill out the old spring mount. I just finished one spacer for a similar build. I bought a 1" length of thick walled aluminum pipe. I did use a lathe to take a bit off the inside. Seemd to work. It's exiting to see another effort. Good luck. Keep us posted.
#165
After a good night’s sleep. I realized that this will change your angle of shock. Im still researching but 20-25 degrees comes to mind. I don’t know what this will do to the performance but worth looking into. May need to lengthen that mount point if you don’t use the spacer. I will wait to see what others say.
#166
I had thought about shock angle and figured I could move the upper mount towards the tower. 20 deg is the number I've seen for shock angle. Not sure how much say 18 deg. would affect the motion ratio or change the coil pressure I intend to use.
#170
Still running
Well its been a long time but the suspension is still great. I went back in and use locktite on everything so nothing will giggle loose. I've had to build another motor but car is still great. I've channeled the exhaust a bit so I can really slam the car if I want to now with the front and rear being adjustable.