Full Frontal - POR15 & Metal Rescue Evaluation
05-11-2011, 10:23 PM
#31
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: California
Posts: 611
Rust Remover Bath
In Spinal Tap fashion (youngsters go ahead and Google "Spinal Tap" the movie... we'll wait...) the settings on this water based aparatus are 30 minutes for light rust, 4 hours for heavy rust, and AS LONG AS IT FRIGGEN TAKES!!!
05-12-2011, 06:03 PM
#32
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: minnesota
Posts: 233
There is no smell quite like polyester resin, none. It gets everywhere and far worse than any paint I've sprayed. I did one boat in the garage, gel with Duratec, stunk up the whole neighborhood far worse then any paint including the old killer Imron.
I've since switched to epoxy, although with the cost may go to vinylester. I also started vacuum bagging everything which not only helps with the smell but also the lamination itself.
I've since switched to epoxy, although with the cost may go to vinylester. I also started vacuum bagging everything which not only helps with the smell but also the lamination itself.
Keep postin it up gregski, Im luvin it! What is your favorite rust removal product so far? Besides the obvious elbow grease and wire wheels.
Oh yeah the charcole part of your filters only keep for the full 40 if you keep it in a sealed bag, and you should be able to pick up a box of the white prefilters at your local auto parts store.
05-12-2011, 07:27 PM
#33
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Since I am not done with Metal Rescue yet, so far it has been Phosphoric acid in the form of Prep & Etch from good ol' Home Depot. It's easily accessible (pronounced: no shipping costs), it works, and for $15 bucks for a gallon it really pisses off those guys who spent three times as much on other products that work just as well if not worse [but naturally won't admit it]. Used with steel wool as an agitator it works great. But being [young and] stupid I keep searching for something better, hey I may be putting those scantily dressed advertisement execs through marketing college, you never know.
05-12-2011, 07:34 PM
#34
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Metal Rescue Results - 1 Hour Later
Here are the results of the first test, I will share pictures with you taken once every hour for four hours.
Please forgive me for the crummy photos they did not turn out as well as I would have hoped, one being way too dark to see the rust, so you think it is gone but not really.
Not much happened after 1 hour, so I decided to give it a little nudge with a wire brush.
Please forgive me for the crummy photos they did not turn out as well as I would have hoped, one being way too dark to see the rust, so you think it is gone but not really.
Not much happened after 1 hour, so I decided to give it a little nudge with a wire brush.
05-12-2011, 07:46 PM
#35
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Metal Rescue Results - 2 Hours Later
Again don't let the black picture fool you the rust is still there, you can see it on the brackets where the bolts go around the edge, and it is visible on the back side of the piece so the front is not much better, it's just hard to see.
05-13-2011, 10:03 AM
#36
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,027
Metal Rescue has a PH of 6, Prep and Etch has a PH of < 1 so they are definitely different products. Not sure where the magic of Metal Rescue comes from but its definitely not acid based like Prep and Etch. I also have used Prep and Etch, its probably a good substitute for POR Metal Ready. Never used Metal Rescue to I'm very interested in your tests.
A good substitute for POR Marine Clean is Oil Eater, you can find that at Costco. Its by far one of the best oil/grease removing products out there, just be careful it will dry our hands out very quickly. If you use it on painted surfaces, test a small area first.
A good substitute for POR Marine Clean is Oil Eater, you can find that at Costco. Its by far one of the best oil/grease removing products out there, just be careful it will dry our hands out very quickly. If you use it on painted surfaces, test a small area first.
05-13-2011, 10:44 PM
#37
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Thank you for that comparison I sucked in Chemistry so every bit helps.
05-13-2011, 10:45 PM
#38
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Metal Rescue Results - 3 Hours Later
So after three hours it was more of the same, take the (lightly) rusted piece out of the juice, snap a few [bad] pictures, then with a wire brush agitate the rusty area a bit more, then use a clean new paper towel to wipe off the loose rust as to not pollute the solution... rinse, lather, repeat type a thing
judging by the dirty paper towel, I guess the rust is coming off, but after three hours I would have thought this piece would be "TV Commercial" clean, after all I would only consider it lightly surface rusted, wouldn't you?
judging by the dirty paper towel, I guess the rust is coming off, but after three hours I would have thought this piece would be "TV Commercial" clean, after all I would only consider it lightly surface rusted, wouldn't you?
05-14-2011, 11:45 AM
#40
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Metal Rescue Results - 1 [friggen] Week Later
Well here are the final results of the first test. All the rust is gone. Since I work on the car one day a week usually on Fridays or Saturdays, I don't know if the part was done on Monday, Wednesday, or if it really did take a week, know what I mean. But hey it's not like you are doing something to it the whole time, it is basically Set It And Forget It type a deal.
However this does bring up some questions:
What happens to the part while it marinates? Does the metal become weakened, does it become brittle?
If this is safe for the hands and rubber pieces, how come it removed paint?
How well will paint such as POR15 take to it?
I don't know, I'm just thinking out loud here.
However this does bring up some questions:
What happens to the part while it marinates? Does the metal become weakened, does it become brittle?
If this is safe for the hands and rubber pieces, how come it removed paint?
How well will paint such as POR15 take to it?
I don't know, I'm just thinking out loud here.