Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Floor pan/pan support thickness?

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Old 09-20-2011, 08:38 AM
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Couper
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Default Floor pan/pan support thickness?

How thick are floor pans and the supports ?
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Old 09-20-2011, 12:03 PM
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I dont have mine apart to measure, but you could check with Dynacorn for hard info on that,or you can call a supplier for a thickness. I think some of the new stuff is thicker than the original.
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Old 09-20-2011, 12:29 PM
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What size welder do you have, def don't feel the need for a 220, will a 125 handle basic floor pan sheet metal, or would a 140 be better; looking at Hobart or Lincoln.
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Old 09-20-2011, 03:59 PM
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I used a Millermatic 135 with C02 for a gas, it works great. I think that unit is now larger on the rating, but get a miller or a Lincoln,mine is 15 years old and I can still get parts for it downtown and the weld shop.
Gas is a must.
Avoid plastic feed rollers and maybe consider one that could use a spool gun in the future for aluminum.
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Old 09-20-2011, 04:25 PM
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Never had the desire/need to weld before, so I don't think I'll need any more than the basic to get pans and sheet metal repairs done. Ever wish that you had more juice than what that Miller has, ever done any frame work?

Last edited by Couper; 09-20-2011 at 04:58 PM.
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Old 09-20-2011, 04:33 PM
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The original sheet metal is primarily 18ga. Replacement panels can often be 20ga, and finding true 18ga replacements can be a pain. 18ga is nicer to work with and weld, while the 20ga requires patience to keep from blowing through with a welder, so simply slow down and let the thinner metal cool. you'll find the sub frame and structure is primarily 18ga and some parts 16ga. You'll see double or triple layer in spots such as the front rockers. I've got a Miller135 and it's been able to easily manage anything on these cars without a problem. Use a dedicated 20 amp receptacle if possible rather than a shared 15 amp, you'll see the difference. And make sure your polarity is correct on your welder; flux core is pos ground, solid core (which is what you use here) is neg ground so you may have to change the connections inside.

Last edited by groho; 09-20-2011 at 04:53 PM.
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Old 09-20-2011, 04:48 PM
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P.S I've found the Blair spot weld cutters work best, and the blades are easy to replace as teeth break. Too much downward force or off angle cuts will break the teeth. Between the spot weld cutter and panel splitter (Steck), you'll be amazed at how fast you can remove a panel. Tooltopia is a great place for tools.
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Old 09-20-2011, 08:35 PM
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I've gotta Hobart 140 MIG Handler with gas and it handled everything here I'm doing fine.
https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...s-of-pics.html
I haven't needed anything more.
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Old 09-20-2011, 09:04 PM
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Hobart are nice. Been using the same hobart for over 7 years. Were not easy on it either and have used it alot over the years. Easy to get parts from any welding/gas shop. Also as said gas is a must so factor that into the cost. Ours is a 220 tho, just say hobart's are great welders. If you have the extra money burning a hole in your pocket i would get the bigger welder, its been nice a few times to be able to weld thicker steel, my parents have a hobby farm so we have had to make trailers, fix equipment, make brackets, ect and it was nice for that.
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Old 09-21-2011, 01:39 AM
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I recently did mine with a Lincoln 140. Plugged it into dedicated outlet (washer) and it worked fine. Definitely get some scrap pieces to practice. The aftermarket pan is a bit thinner and I burned through on my first pass. Had to reduce the amp and slow down the feed below the recommended chart.
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