mr_velocity

If you're still running points just spend the $24 and get 2 instruments you need.
http://www.sunstons.com/index.php?ma...7&i=B00062YUUS

If you want to know if your cables are good, if your solenoid contacts are good, if your batter is good then buy this instrument and measure the voltage. You MUST measure the voltage at the starter while someone is cranking. In a matter of 3 minutes you'd have the problem easily diagnosed and you won't be wasting money replacing good parts.

blue 67 coupe

I already have a volt meter and went through the car checking it about a week ago. Had Auto zone test the battery this morning and they had the battery for about two hours. Went to pick it up and it was a bad battery. Don't think it passed the load test, bought a better brand with a three year warranty and the car cranked right up.

jlg2002

Gee, looking at post #2 outward I seen what, 6-7 comments regarding checking the health of the battery system. If your car has a short that keeps drawing your battery capacity (Voltage) down, you need to fix that or disconnect the battery after every shutdown or this new battery will be drained in the matter of days.
A low battery will absolutely cause the starter relay to "chatter" as your video's audio provides.

oxfordbp

This is where I like to say.....I told ya so! lolol Cool man glad it worked out.

oxfordbp

Good point...Could be an on going issue.

blue 67 coupe

Post #1, whole reason I needed the car to start to begin with was to drive it to the shop to check wiring and all for why it is draining the battery.

kalli

have you tried what gunjam said? turning the engine by hand about 90 degrees. to see if it makes a difference?
if it suddenly turns and starts or only turns and then starts making the same noise again then try again.

if you can reproduce that then it's the flywheel. however if it makes the same noise when after you turn the engine manually then it could be all of the above including flywheel. Its just such a shame with the recording. in real life probably easier to tell.

oldrock

I had a 72 charger with a battery drain problem and it was a real bugger to find. What I did as a temp fix was add a battery disconnect at the battery. That way when the car was parked, I could kill the power. Other than losing all the stuff for the aftermarket radio, it solved the problem till I finally found the wires that were shorting out under the dash and causing the problem.

blue 67 coupe

I was actually looking into some of the disconnects. I have asked for a relocation kit for christmas, So with the battery in the truck and all I was also planning on going for a disconnect. I did get it running and got it to the shop simply by putting a new battery. Told them to do and electric test and they checked for current draw and anything staying on after the car is off. And told them about my carb sticking. That is all I told them to look at and dropped it off at ten this morning. Well waited and never got a call so I drove back up there at about 4 something. To see the car in the back with the wheels off and them looking at the brakes. The guy then tells me my drum shoes need to be replaced on the front (which I already knew) and that my front bushings are worn out and blah blah blah. A list I already knew which is exactly why I didn't tell them to check that stuff. Going to pick the car up tomorrow but i'm sure not paying for the time they did anything other than the electric test and carb stuff. I never told them to start poking around at whatever they thought to look at. I was pretty upset at this but they said they found nothing wrong with the wiring. It was all up to spec so it was more than likely just the batteries I had been using.

oxfordbp

I would never go there again, unless that was a courtesy check!