Roller conversion kit
#1
Roller conversion kit
is this what I need to convert my flat tappet 302?
http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp-Cams/249/...rentProductId=
Could someone help list what else I need. Im wanting to istall a not so mild cam, maybe something just under .600 lift for 1800-6000 rpm range.
I already have the intake and carb. I am also getting heads with manley screw in 3/8 rocker studs and guideplates, comp cams 600 lift valve spring kit w/ steel retainers and locks, performance valve seals, stainless 1.94/1.60 valves.
Any help is appreciated!
http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp-Cams/249/...rentProductId=
Could someone help list what else I need. Im wanting to istall a not so mild cam, maybe something just under .600 lift for 1800-6000 rpm range.
I already have the intake and carb. I am also getting heads with manley screw in 3/8 rocker studs and guideplates, comp cams 600 lift valve spring kit w/ steel retainers and locks, performance valve seals, stainless 1.94/1.60 valves.
Any help is appreciated!
#2
I am by no means an expert on this but it doesn't seem to me that this will get it done.
- For starters, unless you have a roller block, your block will not be tapped to accept the bolts that hold down the Lifter retainer that a lot of people refer to as the "spider."
- Roller blocks have taller lifter bores to accommodate taller roller lifters. The lifter guides (dogbones) sit on the top of the bore as the lifter slides up and down. Since your block will have shorter lifter bores, the guides might sit on the lifters themselves. Will this be a problem? I don't know.
The solution to this would be to use a small base circle camshaft that will allow the taller lifters to sit further down into the bore and allow the dogbones to sit on the lifter bore.
I also noticed this kit does not come with the actual roller lifters so that is something else you will need to get.
Another option would be to use aftermarket linked roller lifters like those sold by Crane. However, this setup comes with a hefty price tag.
- For starters, unless you have a roller block, your block will not be tapped to accept the bolts that hold down the Lifter retainer that a lot of people refer to as the "spider."
- Roller blocks have taller lifter bores to accommodate taller roller lifters. The lifter guides (dogbones) sit on the top of the bore as the lifter slides up and down. Since your block will have shorter lifter bores, the guides might sit on the lifters themselves. Will this be a problem? I don't know.
The solution to this would be to use a small base circle camshaft that will allow the taller lifters to sit further down into the bore and allow the dogbones to sit on the lifter bore.
I also noticed this kit does not come with the actual roller lifters so that is something else you will need to get.
Another option would be to use aftermarket linked roller lifters like those sold by Crane. However, this setup comes with a hefty price tag.
#3
Back in the day you could put roller rockers in non roller motors because there was no such thing as roller motors, and you didn't need that plate thing in the lifter valley.
Not sure if this can be done in today's engines.
Lynn
Not sure if this can be done in today's engines.
Lynn
#4
Interesting! Makes sence, the pressure of the rocker and rod would hold the lifter in place!
#7
#8
This seems like the more expensive way to go, but once you add up all stuff you're going to need to make the factory roller components work, you will notice the final price tag will not be too far off from one another.