Diputado

Folks...this is getting very frustrating...have a '65 with a 289 (top) 302 (bottom) with a 1981 Duraspark ignition. Has a "lopey"cam ( don't know the grind), headers, Stealth intake, Holley 600 carb. Been having real problems with "hard-starting"and overheating...run it 10-15 minutes and it's up to 190+ real fast. Was told that timing might be too high...but has no timing pointer...so backed off timing a little (turned dist about 1/4 inch counterclockwise), and it did in fact start better..but now heats up even faster! Drove it 8 miles and it hit 230 F, and almost shut down at idle. When I shut it off, had to use the clutch to kill the "dieseling". ANY IDEAS...SUGGESTIONS????

clowe1965

If you have a newer timing cover there should be a hole that a pin screws into for a timing indicator. Also get an indicator at the link below. Sounds like you need to reset the timing though. Also with that much engine you might need to upgrade the radiator if you haven't already. The stock radiator already has overheating problems with the stock engine, add some more heatload and you can overload the system fast.
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/Sub...Related&grid=N

kenash

Hi,
You positively have to get a pointer fashioned to get the timing correct. There be other issues going on, but, being able to correctly time your engine is a basic very important necessity. Good Luck!

Al Newman

First, you can time the engine without a pointer. Use a vacuum gauge and set the timing at the highest reading on the gauge. I then back the timing off until the gauge drops two points. That's where your motor wants to be timed.
Second, if you have recently installed head gaskets, it sounds as if one of them is on backwards. Check to see if your thermostat has stuck closed (the radiator will not get very hot). Flush out the cooling system.
Best,
Al

Diputado

Yeah...agree with you all about the timing...have to get that right. Will try the vacuum gauge method first. Can't fathom why anyone would leave off the timing pointer to begin with (bought car with motor already built..so don't know how head gaskets were placed, either). Will order a new and bigger/better radiator today,too. The current one is kind of small, and although I've been trying to "clean it out" with radiator flush..still has a bunch of clogged passages. (Previous owenr ran straight water..no coolant additive). Yeah, I know..the radiator is contributing to the problem, but timing does seem an issue, too, given that it heats up REALLY fast. One nagging thought that has occurred to me is since I don't know the history of the engine....I don't know if it's been overbored...and if so...how much. If someone "pushed the limits" on an overbore...this thing may ALWAYS have overheating problems. Don't know the cam grind, either, but "sounds" pretty hot.

Bought the car in October for 4 grand from an older guy (70+ yrs.) who said he bought it because he "liked how it sounded"...but then when he drove it a couple times, it scared him because it had "too much power"..(he said). He can't remember the name of the guy who built it...only his first name and town he lives in on the other side of the island. Am going to take some photos of the car there and show to guys at local autoparts places to see if they can give me any leads....it's a small town and old Mustangs aren't common here. Yeah..yeah...I know....this is what happens when you buy "someone else's hotrod"...!! If anyone wnats to see the car or engine...send me a direct email and I'll send a photo. Can't seem to attach one to this forum. My email is: diputado99@hotmail.com

clowe1965

Well at least corrosion is the only issue you have to contend with down there, not gonna freeze the water and crack anything. Definitely flush the engine passages out too. Disconnect the v-belt and put it on the water pump and get a drill on the other end to use it to pump everything around, this also helps get all the air bubbles out when you're filling it. Also get a new water pump, its probably shot since water has been run in it.

clowe1965

Pictures below!








Looks pretty solid, a whole lot cleaner than my engine bay is! Engine pics are before and after.

Diputado

First...thanks a million Clint for help with posting the photos. The engine improvements were my Christmas day project here in the carport. The dude that had it didn't jack about tuning, maintenance,etc.

OK...just plugged a manifold gauge to it and "reset" the timing. Was reading 6-7 inches at about 900-1000 rpm when I started, and I nudged the timing up until it got up to 16-18 inches (would've gone even higher if I kept turning distributor!), but was worried about pre-detonation, so backed it down until it held steady at 13 inches at about 1000 rpm. So...it appears that the timing was actually too LOW, instead of too high. The GOOD news (for me!) is that all readings held steady...no fluctuations...so at least the motor is fairly sound. will wait until the new radiator is in place before anything else.

clowe1965

From the battles that I'm having your reading, assuming in/Hg, is too low. Mine is pulling 20-22 in/Hg at 1k. Check this out. http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm

Coupe

OK, if you have a later 302 (5.0) bottom could it be possible that you have a 5.0 water pump? If so that pumps impeller is running backwards now that you have a v-belt...