Aluminum or Billet Steel flywheels?
#1
Aluminum or Billet Steel flywheels?
I am in the midst of collecting parts to do the infamous T5 swap on a 68. The car has a mild 351W and stock gearing on the backside. The motor is somewhere in the 275-300 hp range. The car is a driver, I do not plan on any dragstrip time at all. I do drive it rather agressively on the street though. In regards to flywheel selection, aluminum or billet steel? Any opinions on brand? I have done searches and get a 50/50 on opinions.
I plan to use a King Cobra clutch package with a WC T5.
On another note, it is within the budget, is an aluminum driveshaft worth the extra money?
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
I plan to use a King Cobra clutch package with a WC T5.
On another note, it is within the budget, is an aluminum driveshaft worth the extra money?
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
#2
I would opt for a traditional steel flywheel. Billet is over kill on the street with what you have planned for engine duty. Aluminum is for road race and circle racing etc. and drag strip. Running aluminum F/Ws the RPMs fall off very quickly as there is less momentum and inertia involved. Use the extra bucks for "needs" not "wants". Just my point of view.
#3
All the aluminum drive line components are for one thing..less rotational mass. What does that mean? More power to the rear wheels, as the motor/tranny meet less resistance/weight.. for the application you ate using I don't think the investment is really worth its cost.
#5
I would opt for a traditional steel flywheel. Billet is over kill on the street with what you have planned for engine duty. Aluminum is for road race and circle racing etc. and drag strip. Running aluminum F/Ws the RPMs fall off very quickly as there is less momentum and inertia involved. Use the extra bucks for "needs" not "wants". Just my point of view.
Aluminum flywheels are not intended for standard street use. A standard flywheel will do you just fine.
#6
Starfury,
Out of curiosity, what kind of setup are you running behind your 331? Just want to get a feel of what people are running and what their intended purpose is with their rides.
Again, I am not a strip kind of person, more trying to get an idea of what is right for me...
Again, thank you guys for all of the input.
Out of curiosity, what kind of setup are you running behind your 331? Just want to get a feel of what people are running and what their intended purpose is with their rides.
Again, I am not a strip kind of person, more trying to get an idea of what is right for me...
Again, thank you guys for all of the input.
#7
Billet steel is the way to go for the flywheel and the 10 1/2 inch clutch.
You can get it on ebay for $120
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBF-FORD-HD-...6be762&vxp=mtr
I went with an aluminum driveshaft because it was only $100 more than the cost of a steel and has reduced harmonic vibrations compared to steel.
http://www.streetortrack.com/Custom-...-pr-16159.html
You can get it on ebay for $120
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBF-FORD-HD-...6be762&vxp=mtr
I went with an aluminum driveshaft because it was only $100 more than the cost of a steel and has reduced harmonic vibrations compared to steel.
http://www.streetortrack.com/Custom-...-pr-16159.html
#8
It's pretty much factory replacement behind the motor. Standard replacement cast iron flywheel, close-ratio toploader, and 3.25:1 gears that are too tall for the close-ratio trans, but great for cruising at 70mph on the freeway. It was originally a daily driver with a 3sp m/t, but I've since had to repurpose it to a weekend fun car, and I plan on changing the gearing to 3.73's or the like.
#9
+1 on the aluminum driveshaft. Its only $100 cheaper and it will greatly reduce any vibration you may get from the shaft. also, it has less rotating mass
Id go standard flywheel unless you can get a billet for the same price. I promise you would never know the difference.
Id go standard flywheel unless you can get a billet for the same price. I promise you would never know the difference.