mustangdemon01

I been trying to save up money to get the frame done first but im tired of waiting! ive been doing research on mig welding and found some info and someone that can help me out. I plan to work on the quarter panels, rocker panels, wheel wells before i get the frame replaced. I can do this before i get the frame done right?

my fenders seem to be in good condition (no rust along the edges) so i was thinking before winter rolls around i can take them off sand them, and prime them..but im not sure of the process...if i do this by hand what grit should i start with? what should i move on to? i read i should start with 80, then move to 120 then to 240-320...is this right? should i appy primer right after? what kind of primer should i be looking for? after i prime it should it be okay until paint?

i was also thinking about doing this to the doors also...my doors seem to be in good condition too except in the far bottom corner there is a small rust hole the size of a golf ball on each door...should i use body filler? how do i apply it? anything else i can do?

sorry for so many questions ....your wisdom is very much appriciated.

nualln

I would start with 120 then prime after you get to metal. 80 would put too many scratches in the metal.

mustangdemon01

should i use the 120 by hand? should i use a sanding tool to do this? what kind of primer should i apply to it? is there anything else i can add to prevent rusting again?

pak133

Although opinions may vary I would sand by hand or with a block but not with a power tool. If you do use a power sander hand sand the last time you'll get a better finsih on the metal. Get a good etching primer (Iprefer dupont) don't skimp. You can also use a metal prep prior to priming to help prevent rusting. Also, don't forget to prime the inside of the fender as well as the outside.

Soaring

Before you start any sanding, you need to get the front and rear glass out of that car. And, take off all the badges and chrome pieces. If it were mine, I would take out the interior pieces that I wanted to save too. Buy or rent a sandblasting machine (or a bead media blaster) and make quick work of getting off all the old paint, then repair any rusted out spots by replacing them or patching them. That requires welding experience and a welder. The mig works the best. You will need to invest several hundred dollars into tools before you start any rust repair project on that car. As mentioned, use an etching primer after each project so you don't leave any exposed bare metal to the elements.

mustangdemon01

thanks for the advise soaring! actually there are no pieces left inside...its totally gutted and only has the rotted floorboards left...i disassembled the doors and fenders today so i can work on them in my basement(i dont have a garage). i will take your advise though and remove all the nessasary chrome etc. and sandblast it....but i was thinking i should sandblast it after i replace the quarters and floorpans...or should i do it before? i been looking for a mig welder and found decent ones on there for about 200 bucks..they are 110v 90 amp mig welders.

so i shouldnt use the 120 grit until i get the paint off on the doors?? should i apply anything else to the parts (doors, fenders) to further prevent them from rusting (besides etching primer and paint)??

thanks!

Soaring

Nualln has a lot more experience in the painting/prep area than I have, and he will be the main source for information. Basically, the car has to be completely stripped of any paint that covers the metal. That way, you can visually see what damage you actually have from rust. Then, and only then, can you repair or replace those body parts to make sure there will be no rust cropping up in the future in those areas. The 110 mig welder is ok with sheet metal repairs, but for frame rails and thicker metal, I would consider a 220 if I were you.

nualln

mustangdemon01, is the car in question the car that's in your signature pic?

davin

dude, you are taking on a HUGE project if the car you are working on is the one in ur sig .... if you have a unibody/frame problem ... i would think that you need to get that fixed first, so when you are changing the body panels, you dont hang them on a bent chassis. I may be wrong, but i think thats how i would do it. & remember primer can still rust, even if you use the trick high dollar stuff ... primer is no replacement for a cleared paint job, if you let the primer sit in the waether to long, you will just have to do it over again. just some stuff to keep in mind.

mustangdemon01

Actually it is the one from the sig....dont worry guys ...i dont plan on tackling the hardcore stuff just yet....i plan to keep the frame of the car to the pros. im still saving up some cash for that but i want to do something. the car is completely covered so im not too worried about it being exposed to the elements. i just took the doors off and fenders so i can start on something rather then just have it sit[sm=badidea.gif]....i want to do the quarters, wheel wells, floorboards, and rocker panels myself like i said earlier....i think those jobs are okay for me dont yah think?[sm=helpout.gif] i beleive the front end is going to have to be replaced (from the firewall to front) anyways. i know its a big project ...believe me ive heard it from everyone[sm=laughat.gif], but im still confident. your advise is awesome though...so keep it coming...anything i can learn from you is definetly a plus.

I was told i should use filler primer and not self etching primer cause im not experienced and other stuff dealing with ventalation.they also told me to use a low number grit then work my way up to 120, but i think nualln knows more then this guy does. anyways any other advise is very much appriciated.

Thanks!