MonsterBilly

Here is a quick run down

i had an original 289 with power steering. I bought the borgeson upgrade that came with the new box, lines, center link, pitman arm, and tie rod ends.

Previously, I had installed the 620 springs, kyb shocks, roller perches and new stock style upper and lower control arms. At that time I also did the uca drop. With the stock power steering it actually handles pretty well. I licked it. It was a little loose though. I then installed a 1.125 anti sway bar in front. THhat helped a lot but the factory power assist was too loose.I could steer with a single pinky finger. Even parking. Still too loose. At that time I was running the recommended alighment specs that i pulled from a link from this site. I cant remember exactly who i got it from. (maybe dodgestang)

Then I upgraded to the Borgeson unit. I did not however use a new sawignaw pump. I used my factory ford pump. The new system works well but is a little stiff. after talking to the borgeson tec, he stated that I should have used the sawignaw pump. If i did not want to go that route, I could use a pump out of a same year ford truck. The truck pumps put put more pressure.

Once the new system was installed I went with similar specs for the alignment however Borgeson recommended I go with a slight 1-2* tow in. This apparently helps the return to center. But, he also stated that the borgeson system due to the design will never truly return perfectly to center because it uses a worm gear, the worm gear has a tighter tollerance @ center to help stabilize the vehicle when driving straight on a highway. I found this to be true.

So the only real issue I have had is one that I created. I cut the steering column just a little too short. I think I should have waited until I removed the engine to installl it. I would have been able to see better and do a better job. I do think the system has a weakness though. It uses the rag joint alone to secure the shaft to the box. I think I am going to remedy this on my own. I plan on cutting the column a little shorter, using a bearing and a carrier with a hiem joint and supporting it to the fender well. I currently have the engine out so it is easily accessible. This will take up space in the short column and also give the column another anchor to keep the wheel from pulling away from the column by securing the shaft.

I also am converint to the March serpentine system before putting the new engine back in. It should be here any day from summit. I also ordered a new sawignaw pump too. One i get to work on it, at the end of this week, I will post some pictures.

please reply with any questions.

THanks
B

chillininnh

Now I don't know if they've made any improvements to the Flaming River racks but when they came out years ago they had a very bad reputation for inducing bump steer. There are far better rack designs IMO. Good luck with the Borgesen unit, I've seen good and bad reviews on those, mostly good.

68dustin

if you have a 69 it's a very easy install, you should have a collapsible column. You will not have to cut anything, I just did this install in my 67 cougar. I ended up going with a 69 column so I didn't have to chop up and cut my other column. I also did this conversion in my 68 mustang (which has the same column as the 69.) You would need this kit for the 69 with factory power steering borgeson kits 999024

guitarman376

Really? That's great new if thats the case. Today I picked my car up from alignment shop and they didn't get the steering right nor did they guide the springs into the isolators correctly like I asked. Gonna have a fit tomorrow.

68dustin

Ya look under ur dash and see if your steering column has an accordion plastic sleeve at the base. If it does your good to go and it's a very easy install.

fastbackford351

I installed the manual steering Flaming River R&P and tilt steering column into the fastback several years ago and I can't fault it a lick. I haven't noticed any bumpsteer at all and installation couldn't have been any easier.

The only issue I ever had was shortly after the initial installation I was driving in front of a cement factory and the bolt heads holding the rack caught a manhole cover that caused the cradle to fold up like a pocket knife. WHAMO!

The loaded cement trucks had beaten the road down around the man-hole cover so it stuck up out of the road a lot higher than they normally do. Nothing was messed up except the rack cradle and just missed clearing the man-hole cover by less than 1/4" .

When I called Flaming River about a replacement they sent me one at no charge ASAP.
Comparing the original cradle to the replacement cradle I noticed that the replacement had about 3/4" - 1" more ground clearance so I'm guessing I wasn't the only loner with the boner who has had that happen. The neat thing about the original cradle was that the oil pan could be removed and replaced without uninstalling the cradle but it hung down just a bit too far.

Gun Jam

Fastback

how is the steering play at center? Virtually non existent?
What about return to center does the wheel naturally find center?

Thanks

-Gun

fastbackford351

There is no slack I can tell between the steering wheel and the tires. You move the tiller a smidge and the tires turn a smidge. And yes the return to center feels dead on.

Gun Jam

I am considering a manual rack pinion install in the near future. I just dont know which route to go...I was thinking unisteer but you make the FR system sound pretty awesome!

I would assume the one for the 66 is as good...especially since it has as far as i know undergone several revisions since its initial release that did have some issues.

fastbackford351

I can't answer for the other systems, I'm sure they all have their positives.

Honestly, ease of installation played a large part of me choosing the FR setup. It all bolts up into the existing holes on the subframe. I don't do any auto-crossing or anything like that but for around town and highway it does work as advertised.

If I have any complaint at all it is with the steering column and it is a mouse-turd of a complaint. The plastic disc that goes between the steering wheel and the metal column will squeak unless I squirt it down with some Tri-flo or WD-40 or the like on occasion.

The part that took any kind of brain activity was wiring the column to my factory harness. It comes(?) (came with) a GM style connector but I wasn't about to cut my factory FoMoCo harness to accommodate a Brand X connector so what I did there was to take the connector from a Mustang column, clip it off leaving a few inches of wire and figure out what pin goes where and solder & heat shrink the splices.

I spoke with the head honcho at FR when I had my cradle incident and he told me that they basically aped the design of a Chevy van for the steering column, hence the GM style connector and steering wheel spline on the originals FR versions.

I ordered one with Ford splines and bought a repop 65-66 factory looking wood grain wheel & center cap so it all went together nice and easy. As for the headers I went with JBA shorties and they fit like a glove.

In the interest of full disclosure, I never have gotten my horn buttons to work but I never had a working horn on the car to begin with so it never bugged me enough to spend the time noodling it out.