guitarman376

Finished up the new leaf spring install, nothing put up a fight so it was cake.






During the process I realized that the heads of my jack stands didn't fit right on the rear frame rails, how have you guys avoided this? The reason I couldn't place them a different way was because if I moved them any more inward I couldn't have removed the springs from the front mount. Pics show part of jackstands not touching car.



I used the jackstands this way, and made sure not to bump the car. In the future it won't be an issue because I won't be doing the springs again for awhile, but I would like to know how you have avoided this.

Lastly, I discovered that one of the strut rod mounts is bent from what looks like a previous collision. Is this something I could bend back with a come-along? Or should I leave this for a body shop to do? First two photos show driver side (unbent) last photo is passengers side (bent)

67mustang302

Someone prolly rode it up over a curb or parking space stop. I'd just bang it back into place with a hammer.

guitarman376

Hammering on it wouldn't weaken the metal or make it fugly? I imagine the strut rods are subjected to fairly high loads when braking hard or even cornering. It looked thick enough that I questioned if hammering is the way to go.

guitarman376

What if I used a come along and used a chain and bolt with large washers to try and pull it straight? Since this is part of front subframe I'm guessing heat is a no go.

67mustang302

Use a 4-5lb hammer. Metal is pliable. The strut rods see some load, but it's nothing major. The rod itself takes most of the load through it's axis, and the strut rod bushing mount more or less just keeps that end located in 1 spot.

A come along would work too, but what are you going to connect the other end to? And in the end, you're just bending the metal either way. 5lb hammers are quick and easy.

guitarman376

I will be repairing the strut mount when I begin tackling the front end, which will be right after thanksgiving. Today I finished mounting the monte carlo bar from mustangs plus. The bar was a very poor fitting piece, with the mounting holes not even coming close to lining up properly even with towers spread. For those curious I had to spread the towers about 1/2" to 3/4" to get bar in. We had to leverage the bar to get the bottom holes in on both sides. Then I used the other existing fender holes as templates to drill through the monte carlo bar mount. Lastly I drilled out the four top mount holes in the center of where the existing mount holes were. The top part of the bar mounts did not sit flush with the top of the inner fenderwells. Seeing that bending would be incredibly difficult, I used thick washers to fill the gap between the bar mount and the top of the fender. Very ill-fitting bar. The driver side required only one washer in the top rear bolt, whereas the passenger side required one bolt in front and two in back. Aesthetically it's not perfect but it functions fine. If I could go back in time I might get one that mounts to the actual shock mount or at least one that's adjustable with a joint. The new leafs rode very nicely and even smoother than the worn 4 leafs, however with the front end needing so much attention I can't really push the car at all to really see what's up. Pics of the new rear ride height will come soon.

guitarman376

Here's a pic with the new leafs installed, I think the rear actually sits higher than it did with the original 4 leafs (and the new ones are reverse eye!). My springs must have been sagging like crazy before.

Cobra6

That is a great "stance" for that car with those springs.

guitarman376

Thanks cobra, I can't wait for the front end to be done so I can get a little more front rake. I am very surprised how the rear sits, I thought it would sit lower for sure but I am happy.

guitarman376

Project update: Due to a work injury I am temporarily postponing the front end work, however I decided to also overhaul the steering system because its in shambles so to speak. I have finally chosen to go with a borgeson setup probably with a krc pump. I also know I want baer bumpsteer corrector kit for 70' (I'm using 70' spindles). Here is what I am trying to figure out.

I know the optimum steering link setup is the manual one with borgeson installs. My car is a 69' and I'm using 70 spindles.
69' or 70' manual center link?
69' or 70' inner tie rods?
pitman arm?
69' or 70' or boss 302 roller idler arm?
borgeson kit for 69' or for 70' ?

I think adjusting sleeves are the same between 69 and 70. I am also trying to figure out what size threads the ports are on the borgeson integrated box so I can begin planning my hose design with a krc pump. Any and all information is appreciated. I am ready to start making orders just need the right information.