ProblemHouston

So, I started a sort of build thread around my 1965 Coupe awhile back. I purchased lots of parts for it and was in the process of doing the resto. Well, i ran into something inside the car that I wasn't too sure about. I was very excited cause it looked like I had a rust free car here. The car was stripped and I took it to the guy I was going to have paint the car. To make a long story short the car had been sectioned sometime in it's life. I had a feeling something was off because the paint under the carpet in the interior wasn't matching what I had seen outside the vehicle. So needless to say it was a very unhappy day. Well things got a whole lot better when my GF said we should just buy a car that runs already so I can drive it and enjoy it as well as restore it. So I found a car that I liked and we bought it. Now I am the happy owner of a 1965 "C" code, 3 speed, Fastback. She is a GT 350 replica car. She came from the east coast so there are some areas that I see surface rust and I am sure I will need to do something with the floor pans at some point. But for right now I am driving her and having a ball doing it. So far I have installed my complete Grab-A-Trak front and rear suspension, CSRP front disc brake kit and a new fuel tank and sending unit.



I am about to start working on the engine now. She tends to bog down and want to stall when I give her a little gas at idle and when pulling in first from a complete stop. The guy that installed my suspension said the 2 barrel carb needed to be rebuilt. He said he would do that for about $200. I also wanted to change out the spark plugs and wires. What do you guys recommend I get for a stock 289?

barnett468

i can remove, rebuild and reinstall a csarb in 30 minutes if it is fairly clean and the throttle dshafts sare not worn. the kit is only 18.00 bucks. look at a youtube video and do it yourself or buy a friend a case of beer that knows how and have him do it.

your ign timing needs to be around 8 deg btdc for a stock or close to stock eng. check that first.

suck on hose going to distributor vacuum, of it has a leak, replace the vac can with a vc31 sand set the allen screw inside the vac fitting to 2 1/2 turns out.

if you still have a flat spot after timing and carb repair then you likely need main jets around 2 - 3 sizes larger.

ProblemHouston

As easy as it sounds I cant find anyone to rebuild this carb for me under the $200.00 amount. So I was thinking about getting one off of craigslist to play with and see what I can do and still be able to drive the car around while I tinker.

I am experiencing some arching from the plugwire to the exhaust manifold bolt on the #5 cylinder. So I want to change the wires and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on which to get.

Thanks in advance for your help.

barnett468

where do you live. carb rebuilding is a bit of a racket. try a local vintage mustang shop or if you have a local car club of any kind ask there. they can either refer you to a reasonable place or one of the members will do it for $125.00 or less thats what car guys are supposed to do. if they don't they're not car guys. if you lived close i'd do it for a case of heini providing you helped me drink some.

if you can change spark plugs or ever had an erector set you can build a carb.

its virtually impossible to screw it up. the only hard part is setting the float level.

just hate to see people pay way more than they should.

yeah buy a junker parts carb at the swap for 10.00 and practice.

also, if you have a local high school with an auto shop ask the teacher if they will do it as a project and you give them the carb kit and will donate $25.00 to the shop supply fund.

lots of stuff gets done at high school auto shop i can assure you.

there was one teacher that would buy a project every year and have the kids restore it as their regular school work. when it was finished he would sell it and keep the profit and buy another, it's a racket, lol.

ProblemHouston

Well, my son and I were able to tackle the task of rebuilding and installing the heater box in his 1965 coupe last night so I figured I will try my hand at rebuilding my 2 barrel. I have a spare one from the motor out of my previous car so I am going to give it a shot on that one this weekend. Wish me luck.

racer_dave

Taylor is making some really good plug wires. I've used them on the racecars with zero issues. I've also used MSD(ok seems like you pay for the name) and Moroso Blue Max(really good but can be pricey). Accel I had problems with so I don't use them any more.

ProblemHouston

Anyone know what I should set the spark plug gap at when I change plugs?

jlg2002

0.035 is the normal max gap for stock street cars. You can go down to .032 but not sure that you'll see much benefit.

ProblemHouston

Cool thanks. I am going to try and get everything I need this weekend and work on it during the week. Gotta see if need anything else.

2 barrel rebuild kit (i'll pick this up at napa later on today)
Plugs (check)
Wires (will also get a set at NAPA today)
Dist. cap. (will also get at NAPA today)
Oil and oil filter. (check)

That should freshen her up until I rebuild her this spring/summer.

Tilley

Autolites are very easy to rebuild. Here are some links. I hope they help.


http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/...retor_rebuild/