Hydraulic Throw out bearing problem..
#1
Hydraulic Throw out bearing problem..
Hello all,
I have a '67 Mustang Fastback with a 347 stroker, 415hp. 438 ft. of torque. It's running a T5 WC. The car was a street/strip racer for over 20 years before I bought it.
I am running the T5 the previous owner had along with the hydraulic TOB he had. Last summer the TOB basically ate itself. I had a hard time finding one but the people a McCloud were great in building me one.
Today while down shifting for a stop light the clutch started screeching, creaking.. like fingernails on a black board.
What am I missing here?? I had a very hard time bleeding the TOB. Is there an adjustment I didn't do?? Will it benefit me to switch to a cable clutch system? I cant afford a $400 TOB every two months.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks...
I have a '67 Mustang Fastback with a 347 stroker, 415hp. 438 ft. of torque. It's running a T5 WC. The car was a street/strip racer for over 20 years before I bought it.
I am running the T5 the previous owner had along with the hydraulic TOB he had. Last summer the TOB basically ate itself. I had a hard time finding one but the people a McCloud were great in building me one.
Today while down shifting for a stop light the clutch started screeching, creaking.. like fingernails on a black board.
What am I missing here?? I had a very hard time bleeding the TOB. Is there an adjustment I didn't do?? Will it benefit me to switch to a cable clutch system? I cant afford a $400 TOB every two months.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks...
#3
It's been my experience that any contact with the throw out bearing other than shifting will cause early failure. Even resting your foot on the clutch while driving can be enough.
Since it's noisy now, it's pretty easy to check the adjustment. If it's not making noise with your foot off the clutch while driving, adjustment is probably ok.
Since it's noisy now, it's pretty easy to check the adjustment. If it's not making noise with your foot off the clutch while driving, adjustment is probably ok.
#4
I have the car up on my lift now. It is making contact sitting there with the clutch, I can spin the bearing at all. I guess I can assume that it's eaten itself again.
I didn't realize just light pressure on the clutch pedal can cause contact. I have a bad habit of "getting ready to shift" so to speak, therefore have my foot on the pedal, even slightly.
Mark
I didn't realize just light pressure on the clutch pedal can cause contact. I have a bad habit of "getting ready to shift" so to speak, therefore have my foot on the pedal, even slightly.
Mark
#8
Hydraulic TOB's always remain in light contact with the clutch, but they need to have clearance room in the slave to account for clutch wear (that's what the adjustment procedure is for).
The slave unit is expensive, but the bearing itself should be $50 or less.
You need to find out why it's failing. Either you're riding the clutch, adjusting it improperly or there's an alignment issue of some sort.
The slave unit is expensive, but the bearing itself should be $50 or less.
You need to find out why it's failing. Either you're riding the clutch, adjusting it improperly or there's an alignment issue of some sort.