Money's tight...Which order for upgrades?
#1
Money's tight...Which order for upgrades?
I've got a '67 Coupe with a basically stock 289 (Edelbrock Performer RPM and carb), c4, 8" 2.79 with a bad pinion bearing or something similar. Within the next few months I plan on doing a Curry 9" swap with 3.90 ratio since I plan on doing an AOD swap next after the rear diff.
I also picked up a 5.0 roller long block out of a fox-body so my question is, should I wait to do the AOD swap until the 5.0 is built and ready to go in or will it match up with the 289 without major mods? The 5.0 will probably be a couple of years until I have the funds to have it built. I have zero transmission experience besides changing filter, fluid and pan. No experience with rear ends. Thanks for the help!!
I also picked up a 5.0 roller long block out of a fox-body so my question is, should I wait to do the AOD swap until the 5.0 is built and ready to go in or will it match up with the 289 without major mods? The 5.0 will probably be a couple of years until I have the funds to have it built. I have zero transmission experience besides changing filter, fluid and pan. No experience with rear ends. Thanks for the help!!
#3
it depends what your goal is . . 3.90 gears are pretty racy, especially for an engine that only turns 5,000 rpm.
i would leave it, also unless you have iver 400 hp and a lot if traction, you do not need a 9"
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i would leave it, also unless you have iver 400 hp and a lot if traction, you do not need a 9"
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#4
My goal is to have a quicker, more fun to drive car. It handles well and sounds good, just slow. For example, I clocked my 0-60 time in my car and it was 9 secs, whereas my Chevy 4x4 truck does it in 8.5. I figured if I had an AOD I could run a 3.50-3.90 ratio and have good acceleration and still not turn too high of RPM on the highway.
The main reason I'd consider the 9" is so it would be done and able to handle additional power later on. I have also been looking into limited slips and gears for the 8". It's not going to be cheap either way. I've never done anything besides replace parts that break or wear out, so I appreciate input from those that are experts.
The main reason I'd consider the 9" is so it would be done and able to handle additional power later on. I have also been looking into limited slips and gears for the 8". It's not going to be cheap either way. I've never done anything besides replace parts that break or wear out, so I appreciate input from those that are experts.
#5
ok, build the 302.
comp cams xe266hr
elgin lifters
use your intake
quick fuel ss 650 vs an annular booster carb.
3.50 or 3.70 gears . . your first will be pretty low with 3.91.
around a 2200 rpm stall
deckj the block so the pistons are around .003" below the surface.
trick flow 170 heads.
decent traction tires but the softer they sare the quicker they wear.
traction master traction bars or anti hop leaf spring.
if you are on a real tight budget try a comp xe258h cam and eddy e street heads . . call eddy and ask the senior tech if you can run this cam with their springs . . these heads sare around $300.00 less than trick flows.
.
comp cams xe266hr
elgin lifters
use your intake
quick fuel ss 650 vs an annular booster carb.
3.50 or 3.70 gears . . your first will be pretty low with 3.91.
around a 2200 rpm stall
deckj the block so the pistons are around .003" below the surface.
trick flow 170 heads.
decent traction tires but the softer they sare the quicker they wear.
traction master traction bars or anti hop leaf spring.
if you are on a real tight budget try a comp xe258h cam and eddy e street heads . . call eddy and ask the senior tech if you can run this cam with their springs . . these heads sare around $300.00 less than trick flows.
.
Last edited by barnett468; 12-14-2014 at 10:37 PM.
#6
To answer your first question, an AOD will bolt to the 289 and the 302. the engine blocks are basically the same.
I would do the AOD first
Then I would do the engine build
last I would do the rear end unless it is currently broken
I would do the AOD first
Then I would do the engine build
last I would do the rear end unless it is currently broken
#8
I wouldn't do the AOD now. It's not going to help you any with that 2.79:1 rear gear. Do the gears first (I agree with the others, 3:50-3.75 will be fine), and the AOD at the same time if you can. That way you can make sure you get the proper driveshaft length for your final setup, and have a street/fwy capable driver. Yes, the AOD will bolt to the 289, but I think (not sure) you'll need a different torque converter.
The rear end will also make more of a noticeable difference in acceleration than any other component. If you have to, talk to a local gear shop to have them build you a center section. Otherwise, buy one from a reputable online supplier. Once you have the pumpkin built and the bearings pressed onto the axles, it's all bolt-up stuff.
Build the engine right. Do it once, don't scrimp on costs. You'll appreciate it later when everything works the way you want it to. In the meantime, as long as your current motor runs properly, it'll still run with all of the drivetrain mods.
The rear end will also make more of a noticeable difference in acceleration than any other component. If you have to, talk to a local gear shop to have them build you a center section. Otherwise, buy one from a reputable online supplier. Once you have the pumpkin built and the bearings pressed onto the axles, it's all bolt-up stuff.
Build the engine right. Do it once, don't scrimp on costs. You'll appreciate it later when everything works the way you want it to. In the meantime, as long as your current motor runs properly, it'll still run with all of the drivetrain mods.
#9
Wow, I got a lot of responses today! Thanks!! Barnett468 sure knows his components as I've seen on lots and lots of threads. How do you like your 331 Monsterbilly and Starfury? A stroker would be my ideal plan of action, but I've read to build the rest of the car to handle the power first, then build the engine. I'll probably be looking to put about $3,000 into my car in February or March, and I know that doesn't go far when building/rebuilding an engine.
That's why I stated earlier an engine swap would probably be a couple years away because (1) my 289 runs fine and has no problems and (2) that's something I'd like to do just once, and have the power and reliability I'm after without scrimping because of a tight budget.
That's why I stated earlier an engine swap would probably be a couple years away because (1) my 289 runs fine and has no problems and (2) that's something I'd like to do just once, and have the power and reliability I'm after without scrimping because of a tight budget.
#10
I love the 331. Great torque, and it still winds to 6k without issue. I built mine a little more aggressive than most people like, but you can cam it however you want to fit your preferred power profile.
If you just want something to putt around in, it would be cheaper to work with the 5.0 crank and rods you already have. Plenty of fox body guys make good power on 302ci. If you can throw an extra $1000-1200 at the motor build, a stroker kit will get you a little more torque without any reliability costs.
You do definitely need to build the car to the motor. Front disc brakes are almost a necessity, as is an updated suspension (which need not be stiffer).
If you just want something to putt around in, it would be cheaper to work with the 5.0 crank and rods you already have. Plenty of fox body guys make good power on 302ci. If you can throw an extra $1000-1200 at the motor build, a stroker kit will get you a little more torque without any reliability costs.
You do definitely need to build the car to the motor. Front disc brakes are almost a necessity, as is an updated suspension (which need not be stiffer).