PLEASE help -- '68 not running right
04-30-2016, 06:16 PM
#11
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Washington
Posts: 14
I think you have a lack of fuel volume...Everything you said points to that.
Is a fuel line kinked? Maybe the pump is bad, Fuel filter?
the floats have fuel in that can support engine run for a few seconds but there is insufficient incoming fuel to keep them full and they run dry and the engine falls on its face. Thats why its crap after it falls on its face because there is no more fuel available to relight all cylinders at proper AFR.
Try taking the fuel line off the carb and place it in a glass jar crank the engine over a few times how much fuel comes out? fuel should almost want to splash out and fill the jar within a few seconds of cranking.
-Gun
Is a fuel line kinked? Maybe the pump is bad, Fuel filter?
the floats have fuel in that can support engine run for a few seconds but there is insufficient incoming fuel to keep them full and they run dry and the engine falls on its face. Thats why its crap after it falls on its face because there is no more fuel available to relight all cylinders at proper AFR.
Try taking the fuel line off the carb and place it in a glass jar crank the engine over a few times how much fuel comes out? fuel should almost want to splash out and fill the jar within a few seconds of cranking.
-Gun
http://youtu.be/T4SHF7QgDn0
05-01-2016, 12:21 PM
#14
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: arizona
Posts: 1,398
The car seems to be running hot as well. Spark plugs have some carbon fouling but look like they are cleaning themselves up. I pulled the carb all apart and cleaned it out. Seemed to help some, but no cigar.
I've adjusted and readjusted the rockers and timing. It's really frustrating because it ran fine before the rebuild. Not sure what to do.
I've adjusted and readjusted the rockers and timing. It's really frustrating because it ran fine before the rebuild. Not sure what to do.
your pump flows just like the other 50 good pumps flowed that i have done that test to . when they are bad, they typically leak out the air hole or pump very little . yours is obviously hurling massive amounts of gas.
if you have rust in the tank it can cause intermittent problems if your fuel gauge still has the filter on it . there is suction at the gauge inlet . the rust gets sucked up around the filter until it clogs it and the engine dies . after the engine stops, there is no more suction so some of the rust falls off which allows the gas to temporarily flow again.
post a close up photo of the front plug on each side of the engine.
tell us what the number is on the plug.
i hate those eddy carbs.
what intake?
do you have an insulating spacer?
do you have the heat cross over blocked off?
i would check the gas/float level.
make sure you choke is operating smoothly and is fully open when the engine is warm.
sounds like your carb is way to rich . only testing will tell.
if it burbles and sputters even a tiny bit when you floor it, it is too rich but this could also be caused by timing.
if it just hesitates like it is out of gas, it is too lean but this could also be caused by timing
SETTING TIMING CURVE
Before you start driving it normally, I would set the timing curve so it is optimum for your particular setup . Below is just one way to do that.
Before you start driving it normally, I would set the timing curve so it is optimum for your particular setup . Below is just one way to do that . In general, the goal is to run as much timing as possible without it pinging under heavy load.
The more timing you have, the more vacuum it will have until the timing reaches its optimum level.
The more vacuum it has, the smother it will idle and the more you can close the butterflies.
If the butterflies are too far open, you will be into the transition circuit of the carb which can cause idle problems . One of the indicators that the butterflies are too far open at idle is when the carb has vacuum at the ported vacuum port.
0. with the engine idling, plug the pcv vave with your thumb or by pinching the ose . if the rpm drops noticeably, it is too big and you need a smaller one . if the rpm drops much, plug the pcv for now.
1. Disconnect and plug the vacuum hoses to the dist if you have any and leave them plugged permanently or until further notice.
2. Start your timing at 8 degrees BTDC.
3. With the engine warm and idling, advance the timing 4 degrees . Listen for a slight but noticeable increase in rpm and irregular/rough running.
4. If the rpm increases and it still runs smoothly, reset the idle speed then increase the timing 4 more degrees and check for the same things.
5. Retard timing back to 8 degrees btdc.
6. Reset the idle speed.
7. Increase the rpm to around 2000 then advance the timing 4 degrees . Listen for an increase in rpm and irregular/rough running.
8. If the rpm increases and it still runs smoothly, reset the engine speed to 2000 rpm then increase the timing 2 more degrees and check for the same things.
POST RESULTS
TEST DRIVING
After setting the timing curve you can do the following test to see if you have too much advance.
Get the engine up to operating temp.
Drive at around 20 mph in second gear for a few seconds then floor the gas pedal as fast as you can until you reach around 30 mph and listen for even the faintest pinging sound coming from the engine . If it pings, you have too much timing for the octane gas you are using . You can either reduce the timing some or use a higher octane . The highest timing level you can run without it pinging and/or running erratic will SAFELY provide the most power.
It may ping in hot weather even if it does not in cold weather . If you find this to be the case, the easiest thing to do is reduce the timing until it stops or try higher octane gas . If it still pings with the highest octane gas, you can reduce the timing then.
Last edited by barnett468; 05-01-2016 at 12:58 PM.
05-01-2016, 03:35 PM
#15
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Washington
Posts: 14
ok, lets try some more stuff.
your pump flows just like the other 50 good pumps flowed that i have done that test to . when they are bad, they typically leak out the air hole or pump very little . yours is obviously hurling massive amounts of gas.
if you have rust in the tank it can cause intermittent problems if your fuel gauge still has the filter on it . there is suction at the gauge inlet . the rust gets sucked up around the filter until it clogs it and the engine dies . after the engine stops, there is no more suction so some of the rust falls off which allows the gas to temporarily flow again.
i hate those eddy carbs.
what intake?
do you have an insulating spacer?
do you have the heat cross over blocked off?
your pump flows just like the other 50 good pumps flowed that i have done that test to . when they are bad, they typically leak out the air hole or pump very little . yours is obviously hurling massive amounts of gas.
if you have rust in the tank it can cause intermittent problems if your fuel gauge still has the filter on it . there is suction at the gauge inlet . the rust gets sucked up around the filter until it clogs it and the engine dies . after the engine stops, there is no more suction so some of the rust falls off which allows the gas to temporarily flow again.
i hate those eddy carbs.
what intake?
do you have an insulating spacer?
do you have the heat cross over blocked off?
Gonna go check what intake. Hang on.
Intake is a weiand 8011
Yes, I have an insulating spacer gasket instead of a thin gasket.
I don't know about the heat cross over, where is it? Whatever I have ran fine before.
I am 99% sure this is not timing because I have tried adjusting the timing over and over to see if it would go away. If it was timing it would be fine once I got back off the throttle, but it's not. After I've put my foot into it and it's messed up it stays messed up until the car sits for a bit.
I'll pull the plugs shortly here.
05-01-2016, 03:38 PM
#16
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: arizona
Posts: 1,398
check the timing exactly how i described . every thing is connected and you never know what you might find . get rid of all the obvious known problems and never assume.
we all understand that it did not do this before but that it does now . you simply start with one thing at a time . you have eliminated the gas tank and fuel pump already . your plugs should not be black . they can be loading up . kinda hard to tell from behind a computer which is why the photos will be helpful.
your cam may not be exactly the same . if it isn't, it may need different tuning.
Also, adjust the secondary on the carb so they will not open . they may be opening too soon and fouling the plugs . there is a video on youtube that shows how to do this.
the ticking sound is likely a small exhaust leak or faulty lifter or the cam going flat.
.
we all understand that it did not do this before but that it does now . you simply start with one thing at a time . you have eliminated the gas tank and fuel pump already . your plugs should not be black . they can be loading up . kinda hard to tell from behind a computer which is why the photos will be helpful.
your cam may not be exactly the same . if it isn't, it may need different tuning.
Also, adjust the secondary on the carb so they will not open . they may be opening too soon and fouling the plugs . there is a video on youtube that shows how to do this.
the ticking sound is likely a small exhaust leak or faulty lifter or the cam going flat.
.
Last edited by barnett468; 05-01-2016 at 03:46 PM.
05-01-2016, 07:22 PM
#17
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Washington
Posts: 14
Some carbon left from trying the big jets. Looks to be faintly milky, hard to see in photo. Some oil on the threads but not the middle.
check the timing exactly how i described . every thing is connected and you never know what you might find . get rid of all the obvious known problems and never assume.
we all understand that it did not do this before but that it does now . you simply start with one thing at a time . you have eliminated the gas tank and fuel pump already . your plugs should not be black . they can be loading up . kinda hard to tell from behind a computer which is why the photos will be helpful.
your cam may not be exactly the same . if it isn't, it may need different tuning.
Also, adjust the secondary on the carb so they will not open . they may be opening too soon and fouling the plugs . there is a video on youtube that shows how to do this.
the ticking sound is likely a small exhaust leak or faulty lifter or the cam going flat.
.
we all understand that it did not do this before but that it does now . you simply start with one thing at a time . you have eliminated the gas tank and fuel pump already . your plugs should not be black . they can be loading up . kinda hard to tell from behind a computer which is why the photos will be helpful.
your cam may not be exactly the same . if it isn't, it may need different tuning.
Also, adjust the secondary on the carb so they will not open . they may be opening too soon and fouling the plugs . there is a video on youtube that shows how to do this.
the ticking sound is likely a small exhaust leak or faulty lifter or the cam going flat.
.
Cylinder 1. Some carbon left over from when i tested the big jets. Looks to be a little bit of milking on it. Hard to see in the photo. Threads are oily but inside is not.
05-01-2016, 10:57 PM
#19
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: arizona
Posts: 1,398
ok, cylinder 5 is very lean . if you remove all the plugs and find that all the ones on cylinders 2, 3, 5, 8 are leaner than the other four, i would install a jet that is one size bigger on the drivers side of the carb.
05-02-2016, 12:17 AM
#20
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Hills of California
Posts: 5,208
yeah plugs look lean...Do you have aluminum heads..if so what make?
Here is an example of my fuel pump output...its about twice what you have but so is the flywheel / starter rpm...its likely you have sufficient fuel flow (at least to that point) But it was a bit hard from the angle to judge the actual output of your system...do you think it was less that half the output of the video I posted? How big was that container? I used a Gatorade bottle (the big size)
Here is an example of my fuel pump output...its about twice what you have but so is the flywheel / starter rpm...its likely you have sufficient fuel flow (at least to that point) But it was a bit hard from the angle to judge the actual output of your system...do you think it was less that half the output of the video I posted? How big was that container? I used a Gatorade bottle (the big size)
Last edited by Gun Jam; 05-02-2016 at 12:21 AM.