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Rearend sheetmetal work

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Old 02-10-2008, 11:11 PM
  #1  
Kenny_Z
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Default Rearend sheetmetal work

So finally my Mustang gets into the garage and I started the teardown. My Nova had to be moved so I could use the garage space.

I like this shot, the girls finally meet face to face...


I won't know how deep this goes until I get that quarterpanel off...


I decided to see what quality of restoration she'd had before. That huge area of metal on the tailpanel was bondo at least 5cm thick.It makes me worry about the rest of the car.


One of the previous owners patched some rust with fiberglass...[:'(]


I really hope to have this done within a month or two but that is now determined by my funds and how fast I can get parts in. It turns out she needs more than I previously purchased and may need more than I can currently see as I start to cut into the body. I may have to dip into the fund for a nice carport for the Nova. I hate that she's gotta sit outside, it's driving me nuts.

I'm considering a repaint of the whole car as the previous owner sprayed it himself and it's a 20 footer at best. As for upgrades while she's under the knife, I'll be fixing the sagging rear and swapping out the drum brakes. I've settled on the basic leaf kit from Mustang's Unlimited, basic gas shocks because she's got air now,and the disc brakes from discbrakeswap.com. Down the road I want to get rid of that mono-tailpipe and install the American Thunder kit.

Anyone have any tips or tricks? Anything I should check out while I've got her apart?
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Old 02-11-2008, 01:26 AM
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remicks
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Default RE: Rearend sheetmetal work

A suggestion to get the Nova out of the weather, get yourself a tent for Costco or Sams Club, whatever is near you. I bought a car tent from them for $179, thats where I kept my 65 during teardown a priming. Nice, tough, easy to set up, and cheap. That thing took me and a friend 15min to set up and its been standing for 2 years without an issue. Everything Jersey has had to throw at it hasn't affected it, no tears, leaks, or collapses, great tent.
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Old 02-11-2008, 12:31 PM
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TexasAxMan
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Default RE: Rearend sheetmetal work

Tell you what, I'll take that nova off your hands. It looks like its just in the way ......

I have close to that much mud on my tail panel as well. I think you meant 5 mm, 5 cm is almost 2" thick. I could be wrong but the picture tells me otherwise.

Good luck with it, and keep us posted.
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Old 02-11-2008, 12:58 PM
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HGC
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Default RE: Rearend sheetmetal work

It looks like he did Bondo over the rust without going down to good metal. At least that will make it easier to get the Bondo out. I amthinking ofordering the lower quarter patch panels from NPD to fix my quarters without having to replace the whole thing. I may not even using the whole patch panel...just cut out what I need. I have problems in the flare in front of therear wheel well and at the bottom of the quarter in front of the wheel well. It was patched with metal and Bondo but the Bondo was 1/2 thick to form the flare since the metal patch was flat.

[IMG]local://upfiles/82474/9247061F4B33406888B3C855D68CDECB.jpg[/IMG]
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Old 02-11-2008, 11:13 PM
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Kenny_Z
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Default RE: Rearend sheetmetal work

Ack, you're right. I meant 5mm. It's pretty thick there but not that bad. I think she was hit once before but just a little. The crushed trunk lid I removed was aftermarket.

Wow, thanks for the offer Texas, so generous. Sorry but my Nova is second only to my daily driver.

I've got a cheapy tent over my Rustang and dad recently took down the one he was using because the tarp roofripped through (tree branch). I bet I could get a large tarp to cover the top and set it up over the Nova. It'd at least keep the rain off the car directly. Thanks for the idea Remicks.

Yeah, that looks to be a good idea on yours Honeygold. Unfortunately my whole quarter is crushed and rusted out. Thankfully a replacement quater came with the car when I bought her. I have found some bubbles under the paint on the driver's side around the lip area and I'm betting they are from the same type of 'fix'. I'm probably going to follow your lead on that side and purchase one of those patches. I'm decent when it comes to fabricating what I need but if a preformed part is available and cheap I'll go that route.

Hopefully tomorrow I can get that quater glass out because it looks to be the most painful part of the quater panel removal. Step 2 is to drain and remove the damaged gas tank. Then I can cut out the offending quater and see exactly what I need to buy. I'm excited and I hope my repairs do her justice
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Old 02-11-2008, 11:58 PM
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DanK69RustangVert
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Default RE: Rearend sheetmetal work

Hey Ken,

Find any duct tape or road signs in this one yet?
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Old 02-17-2008, 12:58 AM
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Kenny_Z
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Default RE: Rearend sheetmetal work

Nope, only fiberglass, seamsealer,and bondo so far. Oh, and lots of rust holes.

Driver's side


Internal. I think the rust holds can be patched with sheetmetal. The damage isn't very extensive.


On the passenger side however, the damage is very extensive.




Hopefully I can get the rest of the tailpanel out tomorrow. I hope to not damage the driver side when I remove it.
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Old 02-17-2008, 11:14 PM
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Default RE: Rearend sheetmetal work

Quick question. I took out the passenger quarter today and found that my wheelhouse is solid except the lip is completely gone. I mean it stayed with the fender as I pulled it away from the car. Do they make a replacement for this section or do I need to buy a complete wheelhouse and cut out what I need? I hate wasting that much metal right off the bat.

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Old 02-17-2008, 11:33 PM
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Default RE: Rearend sheetmetal work

My lip was gone when i removed both rear quarters aswell i found it easier just to replace the wheelhousing. Looks like your not cuttin up into the sail panel like i did.

[IMG]local://upfiles/43944/C2CD6A442B884D5E9938EFA0364FE371.jpg[/IMG]
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Old 02-17-2008, 11:36 PM
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Default RE: Rearend sheetmetal work

+1 looks like your doing a good job

[IMG]local://upfiles/43944/6A7EA7EE13CF4C0098F037BE1333F0DE.jpg[/IMG]
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