TPony

That's crazy and stupid. Dealers...[:'(]

jrm1900

I think you were being recorded for a joke or hidden camera.
ThankGod I voided every guarantee on my car so I dont have to deal with morons like that manager. If they break a plug is for pure and extreme negligence or because of a poor design, either way the dealer/Ford must pay.

s197richie

slySTANGguy

yeah, it is no longer under warranty. But the plugs regardless are due for a change after any warranty that you can buy is up. What dealer would replace the plugs at 36,000 miles or less. If the place you buy the car at is not going to fix it, then who is. So the way i see it you go back there and make them change it and raise some more hell...****ing dealerships

wasvette

THE CAR IS UNDER WARRANTY THROUGH FORD'S ESP TO 100,000 MILES FOR THE RECORD. ALSO, EITHER WAY IT WAS GOING TO BE A $189 JOB (PLUGS + LABOR) THAT THEY PASSED ON. I DON'T REALLY CARE THAT THEY PASSED ON THE JOB; I JUST THOUGHT IT WAS WEAK. IT WAS MY FIRST TIME THERE AND OTHER THAN THAT ISSUE (SOUNDS LIKE THEY HAVE HAD TO PULL SEVERAL BROKEN PLUGS ON THE DEALERSHIP NICKEL), THEY WERE COMPETENT AND FAIR.

emt4fire1951

What your moron dealer is quoting is the plug replacement for the 5.4 in the F-150's. Believe me this is the real deal. There is a TSB on plug removal for them. Damn thing is 2 pages long and requires use of Kroil, 1/4 turn of plug and wait, then 1/4 turn multiple times etc. Bunch of s##t. I know, my other Ford is a 05 F-150 SCREW. Fords answer was to change the plug change interval from 36,000 miles (under warrenty) to 100,000 miles and dealers ARE charging if they break off a plug. Both my F-150 forums are pi##ed off. Ford even designed and sell a "special" tool to "try" and remove a broken plug. The damn plugs are long and protrude way past the threads. Carbon builds up on the shaft and when you try and remove them can snap off the plug below the ceramic and leave the shield in the head. Sucks! Here's a couple of the segments from the TSB

3. Back out the spark plugs, no more than 1/8 to 1/4 of a

turn. Apply penetrating oil (AeroKroil or equivalent) and

fill the spark plug well just above where the jamb nut hex

sits. A minimum period of 5 to 10 minutes of soak time is

required. The penetrating oil will wick down to the

ground electrode shield in this time. DO NOT WORK the

spark plug back and forth at this point.

4. Slowly turn the spark plug out. Some screeching and

high effort may be noticed but, not in every case. The

expected removal torque is about 33 lb-ft (45 N-m) but

should decrease on the way out. If it is higher, try turning

the spark plug back in a half turn, then back out again. If

the turning torque still seems high, repeat the back and

forth rotation along with some penetrating oil to reduce

turning effort.

There's more but you get the point. I love my truck but Ford needs to be beat for this one.

hammeron

i reread the thread and can see a little better
now why you'd be po'd. i'm not happy with
this plug situation either and thank heaven there
are forums, to share these kinds of issues.....

Stage4

i changed my own when installing the turbo. it was actually one of the easiest things to do - very easy to access and no problem coming out. You do want to be careful putting them back in so they don't crossthread. I used a piece of vacuum line to start them. I would guess the dealership is thinking of the 5.4 as well. that would make more sense (but they should know their own products better than that?)

rravolt

i looked at this thread yesterday and called the closest ford dealer to me and they said there is no problem with doing the spark plugs and if they break one off in the head its on them not us it must of just been the dealership having a bad day or something

wasvette

RRAVOLT - Thanks for the field research. I think when I'm ready I'll just keep trying dealers until I get one that says yes and that they're actually going to own the job.