hammeron

thanks simon1, i may go with the arp
head studs, not sure at this juncture


jcw06, your plan is what i may end up
doing, but if i did do everything, i wouldn't
consider it a hassle or even work, the point
is to have fun and learn something

Derf00

When they balance a crankshaft they shave the lobes, not the shaft itself. Main bearings would ALL be the same size. IF they're not, you have a problem

hammeron

ok excellent, that's one less thing
to worry about...

mustangford289

When you install crank bearings you should use the ford manual as a guideline...proper seating of bearings requires the use of a mallet to seat them...if you just torque them down when you install the main caps, they will fail. Proper clearances are extremely important to bearing longevity and oil pressure. Crankshaft bearings generally need at least a .0001 inch thick oil film between themselves and their journals to prevent metal-to-metal contact. This requires assembly clearances that are loose enough so oil can flow into the gap between the bearing and journal to form an oil wedge that can support the crankshaft. The clearance must also be sufficient to allow enough oil flow to cool the bearings. But the clearance must not be too great otherwise the oil will escape before it can form a supporting wedge. Excessive bearing clearances (more than about .001 inch per inch of diameter of the crankshaft journal) can allow a drop in oil pressure that can adversely effect lubrication elsewhere in the engine such as the camshaft and upper valvetrain.
The amount of clearance between the bearings and crank journals will vary depending on the application and the preferences of engine rebuilder. Some want closer tolerances to maximize oil pressure while others want looser tolerances to allow for machining variances and contaminants that often end up in the crankcase. Production engine rebuilders try to build all their passenger car and light truck engines with about .001 to .002 inch clearance in the main and rod bearings. This compares to as much as .004 inch of clearance that may have been present in the OEM engine.

JCW06

cant argue that, just that i dont have the time or energy to do alot of the work myself, but i do enjoy spinning wrenchs on my car i order the 298ci short block, stage 3 heads, comp cams camshafts, cometic head gaskets, arp head studs, canton oil pan and windage tray, flywheel and studs, kooks longtube headers and x pipe without cats, a BMR tubular K member and it cost me 11400. now i just need to get the front cover, timing chains and tensioners, and a few other odds and ends and then peice it all together

hammeron

ok this is good stuff

i'm starting to see the big picture
here, 289..... allthough the task seems
daunting, strangely i still want to
attempt it

hammeron

jcw, where did you order the block
from

JCW06

i got it from livernois the short block is completely assembled and ready to have the rest of the engine peiced together around it. they dont take cores anymore for the blocks

onederful100

i have nothing to add, but hammeron, yourthreads always go on for pages and pages.

blueherd02gt

Yea hamm..... The built shorblock approach seems more viable. Then you can have two