taskmaster

Hello - I have read a lot about this code on different forums, but Im not sure if i need to change the alternator, I tested the Battery it was 12.4volt and when I turned on the engine pushed it a little to 3k the battery was 13.5volt so it looks like that is ok?

So could it really this time be the shaft cams or will the alternator soon not work anymore, also when I delete the error code it dont pops up at once first after 3-4 km.

another thing I noticed a sound a "little" like a GT500 compressor, when I push the engine a little, so a little higher sound as if the rims or something have got another sound.

Now Im no expert in engines.... I just like to drive fast.

hope someone here know a little about this.

socalwrench

P0340 is a CMP malfunction and P0344 is an intermittent CMP signal. Could be a failed sensor, but check for broken or shorted wires first. A quick resistance or continuity check can confirm the connection, but, again, make sure it's not touching any other wires or metal (possible grounding points).

A new and fully charged battery is 13.2V. I was just testing a 6.8L alternator at 14.5V (at idle; higher amperage, similar voltage). I would say the alternator is weak, but not failed. Whining noise could be worn bearings.

taskmaster

I just tested again, with engine running, it was 14.3 volt. I had a look at the cables, but it looks like those are ok.

J2L06GT

When these alternators start to go bad the voltage they put out
is noisey, thats what can cause false codes, the only way to really
check alternator is with o'scope while its running in car, good garage
or dealership, there is a TSB about it if you still have warrenty.

taskmaster

what is TSB and I could let a dealership test it, but cant I do that,also im not sure what a o scope is, let me also say im not from the USA, im from a Country where we love to drive fast.

J2L06GT

TSB=Technical Service Bulletin, information Ford puts out to
service techs about reaccuring problems that have been seen
but are not recall items.
O'scope=Oscilloscope, used to see voltage waveforms,
spark, alternator output. A good repair shop should have.
The alternator TSB #06-2-9, repair shop should be able to
access info online.

Kotobuki

See if your local auto parts store can test the alternator while it's on the car. Over here almost all of them have a hand held test unit they can hook up, and do so for free. What's likely going on is your diode pack is dying. You'll be getting intermittent AC current instead of pure DC current like you're supposed to be getting. If that's the case, you'll need a rebuild, which should be relatively inexpensive.

taskmaster

thanks J2L06GT - Kotobuki you mean a rebuild of the alternator or buy a new right

Jersey Stang

Its just a matter of time before the alternator dies. My codes lasted for about 2 weeks and then---dead. I was coming off the highway and everything turned off with a message on my display "low battery voltage"

Kotobuki

taskmaster, correct. You can either choose to rebuild the alternator you have, or buy a new one. I prefer the rebuilding route for a number of reasons. First, it's far more economical for you. Second, you get to support a local business, which is good for your community. And third, it's better for the environment.

As an example to the economy of it all, when I was looking for mine (for the same reason as you) Ford wanted roughly $400 dollars for a replacement Alternator. Local parts stores (if they could even get their hands on one through special ordering) wanted roughly $320 dollars. Online stores, and you're looking at about $250, plus shipping for a heavy part. I paid $56 and some change to get it re-built. Took a couple of hours. No waiting on parts to ship, no need to worry about if the car was going to die before I got the replacement.