GT S197 General DiscussionThis section is for technical discussions pertaining specifically to the V8 variation of the 2005 and newer Ford Mustang.
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This is my 6th mustang. I'm addicted.
2014 V6 3.7 6-speed manual
AirAid CAI, Bama Tune, Front and Rear Strut Tower Brace, Barton Short Shifter/Bracket
Stainless Steel Clutch Line, FRPP Cut n Clamp Xpipe, BBK Shorty Headers, Borla S-Types
Whiteline trans bushing, Aluminum One Piece Driveshaft, 73mm BBK TB,
Front and Rear Sway Bars
The list never ends...
I know it's probably too late for this but fall in love AFTER the purchase. You need to remain objective. Dealer/ seller seem sketchy? WALK AWAY. Something seem off about the car? WALK AWAY. You can't do that if you've already fallen in love. You are also less likely to get a good deal if you've fallen in love- the seller will know he has you and wont negotiate price.
The following assumes it is a used car:
Some things I would be sure to do.
1. Test drive. Maybe even test drive a new dealer car first so you know how it's supposed to feel. Investigate any strange noises or feelings.
2. Inquire about how the car has been kept. Ask if the car has been properly serviced and where. Call the service center- demand the seller tell you who did it- and ask if the car has been serviced at appropriate intervals for dash mileage and if there have been any significant problems.
3. Call your insurance company and get a quote BEFORE you buy. Think about gas and maintenance. No point in buying a nice Stang if you can't afford the upkeep. If you're financing, get a finance quote beforehand.
4. Ask the seller why it is being sold. It could always be the case that its a problem plagued maintenance money pit.
5. I like to look at the inside of door frame. If the inside of the frame is clean (Especially under the doors) this typically indicates thorough upkeep IMHO. One thing thats frequently overlooked, so if its clean thats a good sign.
6. Look at everything you can see. Be especially wary of rust or other corroded or neglected parts.
7. A common trick is to use badging to cover body damage to the paint. On my 09 I had a scratch on the passenger side column between windows that was down to the metal. I bought 2 Built by Ford logos that looked natural there (one for the other side too) and it was a $50 dollar bandaid covering a $1500 problem. Didn't look half bad though.
8. Everything is negotiable. Tires look worn? That should be worth a few hundred. Dog scratched the passenger seat? Again, ask for cash.
9. Unless you want a project, avoid repos. Ownership history is important- get it.
I would highly recommend taking a friend who is mechanically inclined if you aren't yourself. If there is any doubt in your mind about the car's condition it's time to walk away or aggressively negotiate price until you feel like you are paying a price which factors in the risks you assume for the prior owners shoddy upkeep.
I hope it's a good stang. If it is you will love it. But now you need to be objective and be sure you're getting a good car. Remember that there will ALWAYS be other mustangs to buy so don't be afraid to walk away from this one. Sellers sense a willingness to walk, and it makes them drop the price.
Not to give you a bad impression, but from one mustang fan to another I feel obligated to tell you that it sounds like A) you have your heart set on this particular car and B) that can be a dangerous, dangerous thing and you could get screwed by an immoral dealer in spectacular fashion.
If it doesn't feel completely right, WALK.
Active Duty: Kate, 2014 Ruby Red Metallic GT Premium
KIA: Aria, 2009 Dark Candy Red V6 Pony Package-
May she rest in peace and forever run wild across the highway in the sky
not sure what asking price is, and what type of dealership you are buying it from. However, if it is not a Ford dealer I would swing by there and take look at what they are asking for new 14's. Some Ford dealers are off loading their premiums at a decent price to get rid of them before the 15's come in. When I was looking about three months ago the base GT's were starting at 26,000 and going up from there at the dealer I was at, this was including all incentives. Good luck, and I hope it all works out for you.
Does anyone have any opinion on the Borla Exhaust? I know its personal preferance but i'd love to hear some feedback.
The car is a manual
I had Borla stingers on my 2006 GT vert. Loved them with the top down, hated them with the top up. Take the car out on the highway, and try differing speeds to see if you get any drone. My car droned horribly at about 60 MPH.
I replaced the stingers with Corsas and have not looked back.
Otherwise, you have received some good advice in the previous posts.
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