3v FI 1/4 times
#21
That would make sense.. the stick 3v mustangs are in 12s with an intake and tune and I still haven't broken into the 12s with more rwhp than they are making.. I didn't realize switching transmissions could make such a big difference.. Why exactly? Couldn't you set up the shift points on the stock trans.. Or does an aftermarket one shift faster/better?
On the auto tranny I'm going to get, the 4R70W, it will be a manual valve body so I will stilll be changing gears. There just won't be a clutch.
Read the link I put above. It talks about what a convertor does. It bascially multiplies torque output, effectively reducing gear ratio during the stalling action.
Shifting on transmissions like above are faster than the stick cars.
Our stock 555R trannies function really well for drag racing. They can perform as well the 4r70. The problem is (from what I understand) the housing is just not large enough to have the correct size parts and pieces added to them so they last for the long term like the 4r70. Guys have the 555r trannies built to 1000HP claims, and they hold the power, but almost without exception it seems they have to be pulled regularly to replace broken, damaged and worn pieces. Not so much with the 4r70.
#22
by switching from a Procharger and a stick to a turbo and an auto, I dropped from 10.89 to 9.60, and I make about the same amount of power with the turbo as I did with the procharger but run 4 less pounds of boost. Just an FYI
#23
I don't care about your story. Mind your business or I'll bitch slap you.
#25
#26
The turbo setup I have now is maintenance free, when compared to the twin screw or procharger (the procharger was a nightmare) no belt issues, no heat soak, no ice box in the trunk, no meth kit.... With the balling bearing turbo's there is little to no "turbo lag" like in the past. I am very happy with the setup, and should have went turbo straight from the twin screw.
Bottom line is get what you want, and don't worry about everyone's opinion.
On a side note: Simon1 can suck it!
#27
I would guess high 11's with that set up.
You will need a clutch. Most prefer the Mcloed RST.
A different tire. Probably MT ET Streets. If you want a lot of weight reduction, and the best traction, get a set of bogart big/littles.
I would choose a different spring/shock/strut pack for the car IF you want the best drag set up.
If you are more concerned with the looks and driving around on the street, then get the sport lines.
You will need a clutch. Most prefer the Mcloed RST.
A different tire. Probably MT ET Streets. If you want a lot of weight reduction, and the best traction, get a set of bogart big/littles.
I would choose a different spring/shock/strut pack for the car IF you want the best drag set up.
If you are more concerned with the looks and driving around on the street, then get the sport lines.
The tires wouldnt be a problem, i havent bought wither yet...
Car is a mostly dd, so the street ride on the sports might hurt me a little on the track, but the car might see 10 passes a year tops in test n tune and grudge
#28
I ran a kenne bell 2.6L, but not on a stock motor, through a 4r70 auto with 3200 stall, 373 gears. With around 15 psi, I would trap high-10s, 125-130 mph. The instant torque was insane, and at around 2500 rpm or so I'd have max torque, then slightly drop at higher rpms.
But, other types of blowers have different power characteristics.
With a high-stall converter, it can make driving on the street somewhat unpleasant, in that it takes higher revving to get the car moving (i hated that when I had a different converter).
But, other types of blowers have different power characteristics.
With a high-stall converter, it can make driving on the street somewhat unpleasant, in that it takes higher revving to get the car moving (i hated that when I had a different converter).
#29
#30
I could catch your car anywhere around town cause you trailer the thing wherever you go. Next thing we'll see you'll be posting your ET's after Drew drives it.