Emission Test Issues with Aftermarket Exhaust System
#1
Emission Test Issues with Aftermarket Exhaust System
I need some help passing emission test in NJ. I have a 03 Mach1. In December of 2011 I installed SLP longtube headers, SLP catted shorty x-pipe with a magnaflow exhaust system.
The SLP parts came from American Muscle. A week after installation I notice the SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT came on. At the time I taught it was no big deal. Now its July of 2013 and I need to pass the emission test in NJ, it has become a big problem for me.
I recently purchased a Bama SF3/X3 power tuner with custom tunes. After trying the race tune and playing around on the tuner, I notice the SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT went off. I attempted to pass inspection once before I had the tuner and failed. I then attempted to pass after I received the tune and failed again.
I have returned the car to stock tune and notice their were 3 codes after using the tuner to scan for DTC. The codes are as follows:P0420,P0430 and P1000. Whenever I upload my custom street tune, none of these codes show up after I scan.
From my research, it looks like my cat converters are bad. If that is the case, it makes me wonder if American Muscle sold me a bad set since the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT came on shorty after i had them installed.
I was wondering if anyone has had this problem on their Mach 1 or other Mustangs? Should I just buy some new cat converters and install them? If so, then what brand should I go with?
Please keep in mind, I am trying to pass emissions test in NJ.
The SLP parts came from American Muscle. A week after installation I notice the SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT came on. At the time I taught it was no big deal. Now its July of 2013 and I need to pass the emission test in NJ, it has become a big problem for me.
I recently purchased a Bama SF3/X3 power tuner with custom tunes. After trying the race tune and playing around on the tuner, I notice the SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT went off. I attempted to pass inspection once before I had the tuner and failed. I then attempted to pass after I received the tune and failed again.
I have returned the car to stock tune and notice their were 3 codes after using the tuner to scan for DTC. The codes are as follows:P0420,P0430 and P1000. Whenever I upload my custom street tune, none of these codes show up after I scan.
From my research, it looks like my cat converters are bad. If that is the case, it makes me wonder if American Muscle sold me a bad set since the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT came on shorty after i had them installed.
I was wondering if anyone has had this problem on their Mach 1 or other Mustangs? Should I just buy some new cat converters and install them? If so, then what brand should I go with?
Please keep in mind, I am trying to pass emissions test in NJ.
#2
I need some help passing emission test in NJ. I have a 03 Mach1. In December of 2011 I installed SLP longtube headers, SLP catted shorty x-pipe with a magnaflow exhaust system.
The SLP parts came from American Muscle. A week after installation I notice the SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT came on. At the time I taught it was no big deal. Now its July of 2013 and I need to pass the emission test in NJ, it has become a big problem for me.
I recently purchased a Bama SF3/X3 power tuner with custom tunes. After trying the race tune and playing around on the tuner, I notice the SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT went off. I attempted to pass inspection once before I had the tuner and failed. I then attempted to pass after I received the tune and failed again.
I have returned the car to stock tune and notice their were 3 codes after using the tuner to scan for DTC. The codes are as follows:P0420,P0430 and P1000. Whenever I upload my custom street tune, none of these codes show up after I scan.
From my research, it looks like my cat converters are bad. If that is the case, it makes me wonder if American Muscle sold me a bad set since the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT came on shorty after i had them installed.
I was wondering if anyone has had this problem on their Mach 1 or other Mustangs? Should I just buy some new cat converters and install them? If so, then what brand should I go with?
Please keep in mind, I am trying to pass emissions test in NJ.
The SLP parts came from American Muscle. A week after installation I notice the SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT came on. At the time I taught it was no big deal. Now its July of 2013 and I need to pass the emission test in NJ, it has become a big problem for me.
I recently purchased a Bama SF3/X3 power tuner with custom tunes. After trying the race tune and playing around on the tuner, I notice the SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT went off. I attempted to pass inspection once before I had the tuner and failed. I then attempted to pass after I received the tune and failed again.
I have returned the car to stock tune and notice their were 3 codes after using the tuner to scan for DTC. The codes are as follows:P0420,P0430 and P1000. Whenever I upload my custom street tune, none of these codes show up after I scan.
From my research, it looks like my cat converters are bad. If that is the case, it makes me wonder if American Muscle sold me a bad set since the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT came on shorty after i had them installed.
I was wondering if anyone has had this problem on their Mach 1 or other Mustangs? Should I just buy some new cat converters and install them? If so, then what brand should I go with?
Please keep in mind, I am trying to pass emissions test in NJ.
Reasons this could happen are that either the A/f ratio is not right and you could burn out the cats, or you got a bad set. I would send them back and get another set of cats and put them on with a dyno tune to adjust fuel trims and so on. With all of this, im sure it will pass. Im in NY state if that helps.
#4
p0420 and 0430 are cats under threshold. P1000 is from the monitors not ready. I had the same probably a couple weeks ago with my 2010 gt. I have bbk catted x pipe and a borla atak cat back and i was getting a p0420. i sent the x pipe back and got a new x pipe with cats, put that on, cleared the code nd drove it a short distance until the monitors reset. once that happened, it passed.
Reasons this could happen are that either the A/f ratio is not right and you could burn out the cats, or you got a bad set. I would send them back and get another set of cats and put them on with a dyno tune to adjust fuel trims and so on. With all of this, im sure it will pass. Im in NY state if that helps.
Reasons this could happen are that either the A/f ratio is not right and you could burn out the cats, or you got a bad set. I would send them back and get another set of cats and put them on with a dyno tune to adjust fuel trims and so on. With all of this, im sure it will pass. Im in NY state if that helps.
#5
The SLP cats are flowing too much and it makes the rear O2 sensors think the cats are blown out. On a 2003 you can try double anti-foulers, or do MIL Eliminators, or get some Kooks "green" cats. The cats are expensive but they work.
The Bama tune probably has the rear O2's turned off. They will have to turn them on again if you don't want to use the stock tune.
The Bama tune probably has the rear O2's turned off. They will have to turn them on again if you don't want to use the stock tune.
#6
The SLP cats are flowing too much and it makes the rear O2 sensors think the cats are blown out. On a 2003 you can try double anti-foulers, or do MIL Eliminators, or get some Kooks "green" cats. The cats are expensive but they work.
The Bama tune probably has the rear O2's turned off. They will have to turn them on again if you don't want to use the stock tune.
The Bama tune probably has the rear O2's turned off. They will have to turn them on again if you don't want to use the stock tune.
#7
The MIL eliminators are exactly what you need. As mentioned above, some high-flow cats are too free flowing and don't heat the exhaust up enough for the rear O2 sensors. This causes with the throw the code. However the MIL eliminators will set them straight again.
Also, you can use the Bama Street or Performance tune during inspection. Both of these tunes don't turn of the rear O2 sensors unless you have a catless midpipe. Otherwise, only the Race or Hybrid tune turns off the rear O2's.
Install the MIL eliminators, clear the codes, and upload your Bama Street tune. Then go through a few drive cycles to get ride of the P1000 code and all of your monitors set. Then you'll be okay for emissions
Shane
#8
rmach1,
The MIL eliminators are exactly what you need. As mentioned above, some high-flow cats are too free flowing and don't heat the exhaust up enough for the rear O2 sensors. This causes with the throw the code. However the MIL eliminators will set them straight again.
Also, you can use the Bama Street or Performance tune during inspection. Both of these tunes don't turn of the rear O2 sensors unless you have a catless midpipe. Otherwise, only the Race or Hybrid tune turns off the rear O2's.
Install the MIL eliminators, clear the codes, and upload your Bama Street tune. Then go through a few drive cycles to get ride of the P1000 code and all of your monitors set. Then you'll be okay for emissions
Shane
The MIL eliminators are exactly what you need. As mentioned above, some high-flow cats are too free flowing and don't heat the exhaust up enough for the rear O2 sensors. This causes with the throw the code. However the MIL eliminators will set them straight again.
Also, you can use the Bama Street or Performance tune during inspection. Both of these tunes don't turn of the rear O2 sensors unless you have a catless midpipe. Otherwise, only the Race or Hybrid tune turns off the rear O2's.
Install the MIL eliminators, clear the codes, and upload your Bama Street tune. Then go through a few drive cycles to get ride of the P1000 code and all of your monitors set. Then you'll be okay for emissions
Shane
#9
rmach1,
The MIL eliminators are exactly what you need. As mentioned above, some high-flow cats are too free flowing and don't heat the exhaust up enough for the rear O2 sensors. This causes with the throw the code. However the MIL eliminators will set them straight again.
Also, you can use the Bama Street or Performance tune during inspection. Both of these tunes don't turn of the rear O2 sensors unless you have a catless midpipe. Otherwise, only the Race or Hybrid tune turns off the rear O2's.
Install the MIL eliminators, clear the codes, and upload your Bama Street tune. Then go through a few drive cycles to get ride of the P1000 code and all of your monitors set. Then you'll be okay for emissions
Shane
The MIL eliminators are exactly what you need. As mentioned above, some high-flow cats are too free flowing and don't heat the exhaust up enough for the rear O2 sensors. This causes with the throw the code. However the MIL eliminators will set them straight again.
Also, you can use the Bama Street or Performance tune during inspection. Both of these tunes don't turn of the rear O2 sensors unless you have a catless midpipe. Otherwise, only the Race or Hybrid tune turns off the rear O2's.
Install the MIL eliminators, clear the codes, and upload your Bama Street tune. Then go through a few drive cycles to get ride of the P1000 code and all of your monitors set. Then you'll be okay for emissions
Shane
#10
Less aggravation IMHO.