Mass Chit-Chat
06-02-2013, 11:20 AM
#1171
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: MA
Posts: 204
So I did the belt change today. Taking the vortech off was easy and went way smoother than I thought it would. Belt tensioner doesn't bottom out anymore which was the clicking sound I had previously. And it only took an hour and a half to take it off and out it back on too
06-02-2013, 01:18 PM
#1172
you would think so lol. nope, it was the stocker. I must not have had it in correct the first time. The top tabs are a huge PITA to get on and I felt like I was going to break the bumper when I was pushing on it.
and got some awesome parts!
06-02-2013, 04:28 PM
#1174
Great meeting you and your brother as well. Wish my car was up and running, we could have gone to "play" for a bit while you were here.
Since you're home and online, I can presume you made it ok, and the vehicle survived?
p.s. Rob, one thing I thought of to mention: when you're cleaning/painting before install, be careful around the axle vent (the little 1" cylinder on the top of the axle tube). You don't want to gum it up with the paint, the cap part needs to be able to move in order to vent air pressure as the axle heats and cools.
Since you're home and online, I can presume you made it ok, and the vehicle survived?
p.s. Rob, one thing I thought of to mention: when you're cleaning/painting before install, be careful around the axle vent (the little 1" cylinder on the top of the axle tube). You don't want to gum it up with the paint, the cap part needs to be able to move in order to vent air pressure as the axle heats and cools.
Last edited by Torch_Vert; 06-02-2013 at 04:37 PM.
06-02-2013, 07:21 PM
#1175
Great meeting you and your brother as well. Wish my car was up and running, we could have gone to "play" for a bit while you were here.
Since you're home and online, I can presume you made it ok, and the vehicle survived?
p.s. Rob, one thing I thought of to mention: when you're cleaning/painting before install, be careful around the axle vent (the little 1" cylinder on the top of the axle tube). You don't want to gum it up with the paint, the cap part needs to be able to move in order to vent air pressure as the axle heats and cools.
Since you're home and online, I can presume you made it ok, and the vehicle survived?
p.s. Rob, one thing I thought of to mention: when you're cleaning/painting before install, be careful around the axle vent (the little 1" cylinder on the top of the axle tube). You don't want to gum it up with the paint, the cap part needs to be able to move in order to vent air pressure as the axle heats and cools.
and thanks for the extra info, I'd love to have at least the rear end in before next Saturday but I don't see that happening 
. And too bad we couldn't have drove around for a bit, but its fine because I would've preferred to have my pony
06-02-2013, 08:27 PM
#1176
Does your car have ABS?
06-02-2013, 09:09 PM
#1178
The ABS module would be right behind the driver's side headlight. Looks like a hefty block of aluminum with a bunch of steel brake lines connected.
Reason I ask is if you do have ABS, you'll need to transfer the wheel sensors on each side from the old axle. Be VERY careful removing these, they have a metal core with a plastic outer casing which includes the hole for the bolt that secures them. The hole in the axle flange is VERY tight, and once a little rust forms in it they can be tough to remove.
Take the bolt out and spray the area around the sensor with a good penetrating oil. You may have to let this soak and work for a good while. Only try to remove the sensor by gently rotating it a few degrees. add more oil if needed. Do NOT do the "obvious" thing by using the tab the bolt goes through as a prying surface with a screwdriver, etc. It's only plastic, and it will easily snap right off.
People break these all the time. Just be careful and patient.
Reason I ask is if you do have ABS, you'll need to transfer the wheel sensors on each side from the old axle. Be VERY careful removing these, they have a metal core with a plastic outer casing which includes the hole for the bolt that secures them. The hole in the axle flange is VERY tight, and once a little rust forms in it they can be tough to remove.
Take the bolt out and spray the area around the sensor with a good penetrating oil. You may have to let this soak and work for a good while. Only try to remove the sensor by gently rotating it a few degrees. add more oil if needed. Do NOT do the "obvious" thing by using the tab the bolt goes through as a prying surface with a screwdriver, etc. It's only plastic, and it will easily snap right off.
People break these all the time. Just be careful and patient.
06-03-2013, 10:00 AM
#1179
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: CA
Posts: 77
Still have stock rims with almost new snow tires for sale.
Also, DSS Aluminum Driveshaft, brand new in box--never installed for 05-10 cars. $675 picked up.
Steeda double driveshaft safety loop: $200 picked up
help me move stuff out of my place (in Boston)
Also have some random stock parts: 08-09 coolant crossover, fuel pump, fuel rails, fuel lines, cams, panhard bar, panhard brace, lower control arms, blablabla...
Also, DSS Aluminum Driveshaft, brand new in box--never installed for 05-10 cars. $675 picked up.
Steeda double driveshaft safety loop: $200 picked up
help me move stuff out of my place (in Boston)
Also have some random stock parts: 08-09 coolant crossover, fuel pump, fuel rails, fuel lines, cams, panhard bar, panhard brace, lower control arms, blablabla...
