Switching to synthetic???
#12
http://www.facebook.com/Wolverton1?v...1/224840875133
read this then ask me my source and i'll explain RP specifically.
read this then ask me my source and i'll explain RP specifically.
#13
http://www.facebook.com/Wolverton1?v...1/224840875133
read this then ask me my source and i'll explain RP specifically.
read this then ask me my source and i'll explain RP specifically.
If this is true though, why are there different oil thickness and not just 0-30w? I ask this because the guy basically states throughout the whole write up that the 0-30w is the best oil to use because it is the least thick at cold/start up temperatures resulting in less engine wear and tear. Many manufacturers state different weights for their vehicles and am just curious as to if there is more to oil then just the guy talked about? Idk much about oils so i'm just curious...
#14
wannabe:
certain cars are going to need different oils with different viscosity characteristics (0w-30 vs -40 , -50 etc) in order to keep the proper lubrication... higher revving cars are going to need thinner oils to lubricate parts at higher RPMs and dispatch heat...worn out/older cars are going to need thicker oils for the same reasons. He is saying that its different strokes for different folks, and to use what gets your car into the proper viscosity range (10 psi per 1000 RPM). For our cars 0w-30 would be best because its thinner (than others) at start-up and lubricates at the proper viscosity at operating temperature.
I put full syn 0w-30 Mobil1 in my baby and change it regularly. Just because I can go longer in between changes doesnt mean she deserves that
certain cars are going to need different oils with different viscosity characteristics (0w-30 vs -40 , -50 etc) in order to keep the proper lubrication... higher revving cars are going to need thinner oils to lubricate parts at higher RPMs and dispatch heat...worn out/older cars are going to need thicker oils for the same reasons. He is saying that its different strokes for different folks, and to use what gets your car into the proper viscosity range (10 psi per 1000 RPM). For our cars 0w-30 would be best because its thinner (than others) at start-up and lubricates at the proper viscosity at operating temperature.
I put full syn 0w-30 Mobil1 in my baby and change it regularly. Just because I can go longer in between changes doesnt mean she deserves that
#17
http://www.facebook.com/Wolverton1?v...1/224840875133
read this then ask me my source and i'll explain RP specifically.
read this then ask me my source and i'll explain RP specifically.
#18
^^^IIRC, the article states that synthetic oil doesn't get bad like conventional does and the need to change your oil every 3 months/3,000 miles isn't needed. I don't think it is just RP but all synthetics that increase the interval.
#19
^^^^true but sxynerd said this,
i just want to hear the reasoning behind the statement.
I'm just curious that is all
Mobil1 is what I run. Royal P is great oil but with that stuff you'll need to change your oil more often due to the amount of detergents and Additives wear out really quick and RP costs almost twice as much so not only will you pay more but you'll be changing it more often.
I'm just curious that is all
#20
RP has a ton of additives and detergents in their line of motor oil in order to increase performance. the problem is that these detergents break down at a faster rate (sometimes) based on engine use during the given time peroid. so, for example, if you drive your car regularly and dont stomp its guts out, have a relatively clean engine (internal), and continually top off the oil level, RP says you CAN go 12k miles before an oil change as long as you swap out filters every 5k or so.
even manufacturers like mercedes only schedule an oil change every 12k-15k depending on the cycle ( i dont have one my boss does, and he gets his oil changed every 12k on his "b" cycle), but they use full syn and dont expect the drivers to beat the hell out of their cars.
an oil like RP however in a car thats driven a certain degree harder CAN break down at a faster rate due to the level of detergents. so if you drive the hell out of your car you MIGHT kill the oil quicker. if you have a dirty engine you MIGHT kill the oil quicker (as the detergents in RP are formulated to remove buildup, naturally the oil would become more dirty as the parts become more clean). or if you continually forget to top off or swap filters, the oil left circulating in your engine would become dirtier and dirtier at a much faster rate, almost as if the grime was becoming concentrated as the amount of oil dwindled.
long story short...pick the oil you like, or hell, pick the one thats on sale. synthetics do the job better, so youre better off going synthetic. brands really dont matter as long as you dont pick up the "walmart" brand......and last but not least CHANGE IT WHEN ITS DIRTY. just because the oil manufacturer says you can drive the **** out of your car for 12k THEN change the oil, doesnt mean you should. In fact, I may argue that even more importantly, if you want to extend the times between oil changes you should ALWAYS CHANGE YOUR FILTER AS THE SCHEDULED TIMES (as this would help prevent oil breakdown anyway).
ps: sorry for the long post, but i needed a break from studying for organic chem
even manufacturers like mercedes only schedule an oil change every 12k-15k depending on the cycle ( i dont have one my boss does, and he gets his oil changed every 12k on his "b" cycle), but they use full syn and dont expect the drivers to beat the hell out of their cars.
an oil like RP however in a car thats driven a certain degree harder CAN break down at a faster rate due to the level of detergents. so if you drive the hell out of your car you MIGHT kill the oil quicker. if you have a dirty engine you MIGHT kill the oil quicker (as the detergents in RP are formulated to remove buildup, naturally the oil would become more dirty as the parts become more clean). or if you continually forget to top off or swap filters, the oil left circulating in your engine would become dirtier and dirtier at a much faster rate, almost as if the grime was becoming concentrated as the amount of oil dwindled.
long story short...pick the oil you like, or hell, pick the one thats on sale. synthetics do the job better, so youre better off going synthetic. brands really dont matter as long as you dont pick up the "walmart" brand......and last but not least CHANGE IT WHEN ITS DIRTY. just because the oil manufacturer says you can drive the **** out of your car for 12k THEN change the oil, doesnt mean you should. In fact, I may argue that even more importantly, if you want to extend the times between oil changes you should ALWAYS CHANGE YOUR FILTER AS THE SCHEDULED TIMES (as this would help prevent oil breakdown anyway).
ps: sorry for the long post, but i needed a break from studying for organic chem