jjw88mustang

Alright i have been lookin into turbos lately and am hopefully going to get one next summer but i have a few questions.
I have heard about these kits and was wondering which was the best for the money? im only planning on running 8-10lbs
http://ziptie007.phpwebhosting.com/c...roducts_id=213
http://www.quicktimeturbosystems.com/info.html
Also what else i would have to buy to make it run right. Thanks for the help

FoxGT

From the looks of it these kits are just the piping & turbo parts.

You'll still have to buy the fuel requirement parts, injectors, pump, fmu or fpr.

What are you looking for; the minimum parts to get by, max performance, cost, reliable, not having to do much work to get it together? These factor in to what you buy.

jakeachy

not to mention a 3" or above exhaust, finding somebody to tune it, etc.
Or even low compression pistons.

jjw88mustang

well i think i have someone to tune it and as far as difficulty i have people that can help me. Someone just mentioned to me something about a knock sensor and a timing retarder? And as far as compression i think i am at stock but idk i have gt40p heads. I have a 255lph fuel pump and regulater on already. Mainly i was just wondering other then fuel upgrades and exhaust if there was anything else i would have to do? thanks for your help

P.S.I.cho

your going to need injectors, a blow through MAF, a tune of course, your going to need exhaust, umm it looks fairly complete,

jjw88mustang

o and for a cam i have the ford bcam would that work?

jakeachy

you want the cam that will breath the best.

xxxmustangtxhc

i have a Treadstone performance turbo kit on my car i love that kit......

look them up

jjw88mustang

Alright i will take a look at it. Do you guys think its a stretch to do a decent turbo build for around 4k?

FoxGT

You don't need a blow through maf. If you're car isn't mass air already I wouldn't recommend converting it if you're going with forced induction, I'd stay with the speed density.

The pistons will work fine unless you run lean at wot or close. Try to keep it around 12-12.4:1 at wot if you or a friend is doing the tuning. You can lean it out to the 16's at cruise for better fuel economy.
Oil drain. You can use a punch & thread it or drill it & weld a fitting on it. Or drill it & use two fittings, one that goes through the hole & one that tightens down on it on the other side. You may or may not have fitment issues with the intercooler.

You don't need a knock sensor, just listen for pinging it's pretty easy to hear.

Is your regulator adjustable?
It'll work well with a turbo slightly on the larger side, It won't work very well with a small turbo due to the pressure in the exhaust manifold. If it's higher than the intake psi then during overlap you'll have some exhaust gasses going up into your intake.
No. My kits I build cost a total of anywhere from $900 to $2500 depending on the parts used. That's including fuel parts. If you buy expensive parts, obviously it's going to cost alot. Kit's are the most expensive route you can go, same with direct fit parts. Universal parts are just as good, but you have to make them fit, cheaper though.

If I were you I would run a cheap standalone & wideband. They'll probably set you back $450 ($200 for ms $250 for wideband) but it's definitely a good investment imo, even for a modified n/a car. Then you could tune the car yourself. Use the wideband & log your a/f ratio during a run, then adjust. I did that on a roots s/c'd 5.0 I built. I got it firing, tuned the idle, then cruising, then worked my way up to higher loads.
I did a writeup on how to wire a ms to where you could just plug it into the factory engine harness & how the tuning with it works a while back. I could find the thread if you want.