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Old 09-17-2010, 09:20 AM
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moochman4life
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So, I spent the weekend at the track as posted here:

https://mustangforums.com/forum/s197...h-circuit.html

As I was leaving the track, my front-right started clunking. Every time I hit a bump, it was metal on metal clunking. You can feel it and hear it. There was no pulling from right to left. There was no vibration. Didn't know what it was, but had to drive 1.5 hours back to NOVA from Summit Point with no place to stop on a Sunday to get it checked. I was a little nervous, but took it easy.

Put it on the lift a couple days ago and it turns out my sway bar links had come loose. Not just on that side, either, but also on the front-left....just not as bad. Torqued them to the correct specs and fine. There was no stripping or anything on the bolts that attach to the struts.

Well, I installed my Tokico D-Specs almost a month ago. Those who have personally done a strut-swap know that the sway bar links attach to the struts. I didn't have a torque wrench to tighten them down when I did the install. SO, I just cranked on the wrench until I couldn't turn anymore.

Some people will say that you can just tighten the **** out of some bolts and drive away and it'll be cool. Maybe in normal driving situations. It could've been worse for me. Said bolts that attach to the struts could have stripped from sliding or worse...could've snapped.

Here's my point: Invest in a torque wrench!

Thanks for looking!
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Old 09-17-2010, 09:47 AM
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chrumck
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I didn't have problems myself, but I heard people often complaining about it and using red threadlocker on them.

One thing that I know for sure though is that it's difficult to use a torque wrench on them because of crappy access and the bolt rotating in the link while you try to torque it.
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Old 09-17-2010, 11:27 AM
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Sleeper_08
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They are notorious for coming loose and a PITA to get tight. Things are even worse when you are running a stiffer bar and pushing the car hard on the track.

I gave up in the end and bought Sam Strano's links.

Apparently the newer versions from Ford are easier to get tight
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Old 09-17-2010, 12:12 PM
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Rubrignitz
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You do know you have to put a small closed end on the bolt to keep it from turning when you tighten it right? I've had mine on/off about 6-7 times replacing suspsension parts and check my torque specs every few months. They've never loosened on me. Maybe I'm just lucky because I hear all the stories about those things...
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Old 09-17-2010, 12:24 PM
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chrumck
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That's it's difficult to use a torque wrench. You need a crowfoot socket or something
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Old 09-17-2010, 12:46 PM
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jayel579
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I think its like anything else once you start tracking your car, check it over. Then once you do, check it over again and then have someone else check it as well. Once you really start pushing the car to its limits you are going to find the weak spots real quick. Problem is sometimes you find those spots at a really bad time.

BTW Sam's end links are beefy enough for a Mac truck....
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Old 09-17-2010, 12:47 PM
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Rubrignitz
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Yeah, I don't use a torque wrench on those. Just a 19mm ratcheting closed-end and hold the end with (can't recall size, maybe a 7-8mm?), snug them down good. They don't loosen up on me. And I run some sewer pipe swaybars.
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Old 09-17-2010, 01:00 PM
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moochman4life
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Originally Posted by Rubrignitz
You do know you have to put a small closed end on the bolt to keep it from turning when you tighten it right? I've had mine on/off about 6-7 times replacing suspsension parts and check my torque specs every few months. They've never loosened on me. Maybe I'm just lucky because I hear all the stories about those things...
Yup, that's one of the first things I encountered when I disassembled.
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Old 09-17-2010, 01:34 PM
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Rubrignitz
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Hard to believe they BOTH came loose. Maybe its time to upgrade to some non-stock endlinks or try some threadlocker. I really hate the idea of putting red threadlocker on anything I may have to again remove someday. Maybe try some blue .
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Old 09-17-2010, 01:54 PM
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Sam Strano
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There are certainly better links...
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