LCA Relocation Brackets
#1
LCA Relocation Brackets
Hey guys,
I am planning to buy some LCA's soon, but i have a quick question first. I was entertaining the idea of buying the adjustable brackets for the forward mount point of the LCA. However steeda recommends these be welded in. What is the reasoning behind this? Would i be better off going with something like the UMI Stage 1 Anti-Hop Kit? They relocate the rear mount point rather than the front. Also, I was thinking of adding a panhard bar in the combo to eliminated some of that side to side sway on a hard launch. The "rear steer" isnt to bad but i am trying to reduce it anyway possible.
I am planning to buy some LCA's soon, but i have a quick question first. I was entertaining the idea of buying the adjustable brackets for the forward mount point of the LCA. However steeda recommends these be welded in. What is the reasoning behind this? Would i be better off going with something like the UMI Stage 1 Anti-Hop Kit? They relocate the rear mount point rather than the front. Also, I was thinking of adding a panhard bar in the combo to eliminated some of that side to side sway on a hard launch. The "rear steer" isnt to bad but i am trying to reduce it anyway possible.
#2
Front mount point LCA relocation brackets? How could that possibly work?
They only make them to mount on the axle side of the LCA. I have the UMI version, but couldn't install them yesterday. The metal tubing required to space the OEM bracket wouldn't allow my OEM bolt to go through it.
You have to weld them for drag racing purposes. If you dead hook with the ones that just bolt in, the bracket will bend and the axle will move out of alignment. This can force the tire to contact the fender near the door.
They only make them to mount on the axle side of the LCA. I have the UMI version, but couldn't install them yesterday. The metal tubing required to space the OEM bracket wouldn't allow my OEM bolt to go through it.
You have to weld them for drag racing purposes. If you dead hook with the ones that just bolt in, the bracket will bend and the axle will move out of alignment. This can force the tire to contact the fender near the door.
#3
Maybe i was confused as to what they were, i understood them to be for the front mount point. however i could be totally wrong.. I knew they made them for the rear mount point i just wasnt sure about the ones they had on their site. I wasnt thinking you could weld the rear ones in, anyway sorry about the silly question guess i should have looked into it more before asking that one.
#5
Geometrically, you'll always have a little bit of lateral "twitch" with a PHB when the rear ride height changes, and swapping one PHB out for a different one isn't going to change things much.
But the relo brackets will reduce the amount of squat that happens, which in turn will reduce the lateral effects coming out of the PHB since its inclination (think rear view) would be changing less. There is also a much smaller geometric axle steer effect that will improve from having less squat.
Norm
#6
To late, i already ordered a whole goodie bag from UMI. I got the single adjustable LCA with 1 poly and 1 roto, relocation brackets, and a single adjustable panhard also with 1 poly and 1 roto. My main concern with the car was the wheel hop in 1st and some of second. It made the car unenjoyable because i dont want to potentially hurt the rearend from wheel hop and i feel like its just a waist to hammer down on the gas if all im going to do is hop and jump side to side. I think this will greatly help that problem.
#7
Not too late to learn that it's not always a good idea to whack the throttle from idle to wide open as fast as is humanly possible and ECU-commanded, though. Wheel hop is not the only bad thing that can happen.
Worth , maybe more
Norm
Worth , maybe more
Norm
#8
The problem is, the roads out in vegas are so covered with grease and oil from the lack of rain plus all the dust that the car is unboostable in 1st. If i give it say 1/4 to 1/2 throttle at 3,000 RPM with around 4-5 psi its already starting to hop. WoT is a mess as the car just over powers the slick roads and doesnt start to hop until it approaches the redline or after a quick shift to 2nd. I figure the 400 for those parts is well worth the cost of a broken axel later on, to many times have i seen someone bust up a part from wheel hop.
#9
#10
Why doesn’t the FR500C or FR500GT have relocation brackets? Rules? They decided they don’t work? Etc?
I’ve recently talked to a very fast track day driver who said they were a nightmare so he went back to stock. And a few weeks back was in the shop of a very big team that runs FR500 and prepped S197’s (I won’t drop their name because its not my place) and out of a dozen cars not one had relocation brackets on them.
The FR500CJ has them though so I’m pretty sure Ford knows about them.
What gives?
(BTW, love the stock fasteners!)
FR500C
FR500CJ
I’ve recently talked to a very fast track day driver who said they were a nightmare so he went back to stock. And a few weeks back was in the shop of a very big team that runs FR500 and prepped S197’s (I won’t drop their name because its not my place) and out of a dozen cars not one had relocation brackets on them.
The FR500CJ has them though so I’m pretty sure Ford knows about them.
What gives?
(BTW, love the stock fasteners!)
FR500C
FR500CJ