Rotors--NTO or parts store new?
04-17-2011, 09:28 PM
#11
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Kansas
Posts: 178
Very interesting. One of my friends usually brings a pyrometer with him; I'll have to borrow it and see if I'm getting the same thing. From a casual glance it seems like there's room to move the washer fluid bottle around if you could fab up some different brackets, but I didn't spend much time looking at it. Do post if you have a solution though, as it would be nice to have it at least somewhat out of the way and get a straighter shot.
Drano, sorry for JAJ and I going off on a tangent here. Back to your subject, on the rear pistons I've had good luck with a stout needle-nose pliers twisting the pistons back in. Sometimes it takes some effort to get it started, but once started they twist pretty easily. Sounds like you have it covered anyway, just FYI. And ATE will treat you well; quite sufficient I'm sure, I've just grown to like Motul. One 1.0L bottle of Superblue should be plenty to flush the system in my experience.
Regarding the CS/Boss airdam, if you just get the airdam and NOT the kit with foglights or the one with the splitter, it's $250 shipped from AM. Great way to hook up the ducts, and it gives the front end a more aggressive look. Gets rid of that 'overbite' that the OEM GT airdam has going on.
For brake cooling I got the FRPP kit, which is great except for getting the hoses onto the backing plates. They put a little 'lip' on the backing plate inlets that the hose has to stretch to go over, and I may just be dense but for the life of me I couldn't get that hose to stretch diametrically enough to clear. Had to strip a few of the wires out of it to make it happen. Was very frustrating, honestly. The lip is just entirely unnecessary, and makes the process harder than it should be. Might look at Quantum instead. Or, like I said, I could have just been missing something simple, but that part sure was a PITA for me. Also, I didn't put the hose clamps on on the airdam inlet, seeing no way to easily get them on there without cutting all the foglight bracketry and such. Which is probably the thing to do, I just didn't. That said, the hoses fit snug on the airdam inlets, and didn't budge even hitting over 120 on track. Otherwise, it all went together great.
I was thinking CAI/Tune too, but my dollars will go toward suspension and Brembos first. I come from RX-8s and imports with turbos, so this motor with all that smooth, linear V8 power is amazing to me even with a lowly 4.6L. The suspension, however, while better than expected still has much room for improvement
.
Phil
2010 GT
Drano, sorry for JAJ and I going off on a tangent here. Back to your subject, on the rear pistons I've had good luck with a stout needle-nose pliers twisting the pistons back in. Sometimes it takes some effort to get it started, but once started they twist pretty easily. Sounds like you have it covered anyway, just FYI. And ATE will treat you well; quite sufficient I'm sure, I've just grown to like Motul. One 1.0L bottle of Superblue should be plenty to flush the system in my experience.
Regarding the CS/Boss airdam, if you just get the airdam and NOT the kit with foglights or the one with the splitter, it's $250 shipped from AM. Great way to hook up the ducts, and it gives the front end a more aggressive look. Gets rid of that 'overbite' that the OEM GT airdam has going on.
For brake cooling I got the FRPP kit, which is great except for getting the hoses onto the backing plates. They put a little 'lip' on the backing plate inlets that the hose has to stretch to go over, and I may just be dense but for the life of me I couldn't get that hose to stretch diametrically enough to clear. Had to strip a few of the wires out of it to make it happen. Was very frustrating, honestly. The lip is just entirely unnecessary, and makes the process harder than it should be. Might look at Quantum instead. Or, like I said, I could have just been missing something simple, but that part sure was a PITA for me. Also, I didn't put the hose clamps on on the airdam inlet, seeing no way to easily get them on there without cutting all the foglight bracketry and such. Which is probably the thing to do, I just didn't. That said, the hoses fit snug on the airdam inlets, and didn't budge even hitting over 120 on track. Otherwise, it all went together great.
I was thinking CAI/Tune too, but my dollars will go toward suspension and Brembos first. I come from RX-8s and imports with turbos, so this motor with all that smooth, linear V8 power is amazing to me even with a lowly 4.6L. The suspension, however, while better than expected still has much room for improvement
. Phil
2010 GT
04-18-2011, 07:53 PM
#12
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 33
Got ahold of Carbotech today.
Mike was very helpful.
Ended up ordering Bobcats for street and XP10/XP8 for track.
They now have "pre-bedding" service I think they call it, where they heat the pads up. So I had them do that at $20 for each set of track pads.
Also got 2 liters of Superblue. I'm sure it will be good for my first year, and I can see if I want to move up to Motul next year. That small order hit $700, so I have to pick my ways to throw money around!
He said rather than turning rotors, use an 80 grit flapper wheel on a small angle grinder to clean old transfer layer off.
Mike also mentioned the importance of stainless brake lines, and that will be a mod down the road, most likely w/ painting the factory calipers.
Phil, no problem on the tangent--all good stuff. On brake cooling, I will most likely get the CS valance. I don't think Agent 47 makes a grill insert for the '10+. Another option is Steeda's front end, but I don't want to pay $700 and then have to paint it too. Or I could hack air scoops into my factory lower, and add a Seeda splitter, but I think it might be too low/forward for a daily driver--would hit a lot of road dips.
I'll most likely go with Steeda's brake cooling kit. They use an oval connection at the wheel hub to keep the air in the center of the rotor, and off the rotor side. Another option is Kenny Brown which has an oval connection also.
http://www.v8power.com/item--Enginee...-KBP71600.html
Goal is to be at the MAM 6 May Fast Friday and school. Then I'll be set.
Phil, does MAM require a fire extinguisher for Fast Friday or Find the Line? Their online tech sheet says yes, and a SNELL SA2005+ helmet. But is the fire extinguisher only for sanctioned races? I've got a fire extinguisher, but don't want to spend the time mounting it if I don't need to.
Thanks again. Can't wait to hit the track.
Mike was very helpful.
Ended up ordering Bobcats for street and XP10/XP8 for track.
They now have "pre-bedding" service I think they call it, where they heat the pads up. So I had them do that at $20 for each set of track pads.
Also got 2 liters of Superblue. I'm sure it will be good for my first year, and I can see if I want to move up to Motul next year. That small order hit $700, so I have to pick my ways to throw money around!
He said rather than turning rotors, use an 80 grit flapper wheel on a small angle grinder to clean old transfer layer off.
Mike also mentioned the importance of stainless brake lines, and that will be a mod down the road, most likely w/ painting the factory calipers.
Phil, no problem on the tangent--all good stuff. On brake cooling, I will most likely get the CS valance. I don't think Agent 47 makes a grill insert for the '10+. Another option is Steeda's front end, but I don't want to pay $700 and then have to paint it too. Or I could hack air scoops into my factory lower, and add a Seeda splitter, but I think it might be too low/forward for a daily driver--would hit a lot of road dips.
I'll most likely go with Steeda's brake cooling kit. They use an oval connection at the wheel hub to keep the air in the center of the rotor, and off the rotor side. Another option is Kenny Brown which has an oval connection also.
http://www.v8power.com/item--Enginee...-KBP71600.html
Goal is to be at the MAM 6 May Fast Friday and school. Then I'll be set.
Phil, does MAM require a fire extinguisher for Fast Friday or Find the Line? Their online tech sheet says yes, and a SNELL SA2005+ helmet. But is the fire extinguisher only for sanctioned races? I've got a fire extinguisher, but don't want to spend the time mounting it if I don't need to.
Thanks again. Can't wait to hit the track.
04-18-2011, 10:05 PM
#13
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: BC
Posts: 244
There are lots of choices for the front brakes - the Boss 302 Supplement says to take off the backing plates at the rear. Do that too!
04-18-2011, 10:59 PM
#15
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Kansas
Posts: 178
MAM does not require a fire extinguisher for Fast Fridays and Find The Line doesn't either. At least not for street cars. Just have your car ready and your SA2005+ helmet and you'll be set. Oh, and the usual overabundance of tools and spare things that take up room and you'll never actually use. At least that's how I pack for the track .
On brake cooling, there are tons of options for cooling kits, but very few options for hooking said cooling kits up seamlessly. I couldn't bear the thought of hacking up the front end of a car with 1200 miles on it that's primarily a street car, so I wanted a nicely integrated solution for not too much money. Boss/CS airdam plus whatever cooling kit was the only way to accomplish that at the moment that I'm aware of. No doubt more and cheaper options will show up in time.
. On brake cooling, there are tons of options for cooling kits, but very few options for hooking said cooling kits up seamlessly. I couldn't bear the thought of hacking up the front end of a car with 1200 miles on it that's primarily a street car, so I wanted a nicely integrated solution for not too much money. Boss/CS airdam plus whatever cooling kit was the only way to accomplish that at the moment that I'm aware of. No doubt more and cheaper options will show up in time.
04-19-2011, 11:57 AM
#17
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Toronto
Posts: 155
Jeez, I wish I'd read this thread before I did my brake cooling duct install!
I got the FRPP part, and then discovered I needed the CS lower Fascia (I didn't want to cut my 2500 mile OE fascia either). The installer moved the windshield washer tank outboard and the driver side horn was relocated to route the hoses correctly. I haven't run the car on the track yet, so I don't know how things will work out.
How are you measuring disc temperatures? Do you have an infrared sensor, or are you mounting temperature strips?
I got the FRPP part, and then discovered I needed the CS lower Fascia (I didn't want to cut my 2500 mile OE fascia either). The installer moved the windshield washer tank outboard and the driver side horn was relocated to route the hoses correctly. I haven't run the car on the track yet, so I don't know how things will work out.
How are you measuring disc temperatures? Do you have an infrared sensor, or are you mounting temperature strips?
04-19-2011, 01:03 PM
#18
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: BC
Posts: 244
Jeez, I wish I'd read this thread before I did my brake cooling duct install!
I got the FRPP part, and then discovered I needed the CS lower Fascia (I didn't want to cut my 2500 mile OE fascia either). The installer moved the windshield washer tank outboard and the driver side horn was relocated to route the hoses correctly. I haven't run the car on the track yet, so I don't know how things will work out.
How are you measuring disc temperatures? Do you have an infrared sensor, or are you mounting temperature strips?
I got the FRPP part, and then discovered I needed the CS lower Fascia (I didn't want to cut my 2500 mile OE fascia either). The installer moved the windshield washer tank outboard and the driver side horn was relocated to route the hoses correctly. I haven't run the car on the track yet, so I don't know how things will work out.
How are you measuring disc temperatures? Do you have an infrared sensor, or are you mounting temperature strips?
I have caliper strips and rotor paint on hand, I just haven't put them on yet. The first time out I measured my disk and caliper temps with a Sears 1400 degree IR thermometer. The IR thermometer has a K-type thermocouple plug on it, so I bought some 10' long surface-mount thermocouples from Omega in Montreal and stuck one on the outside of the oil pan to read oil temperature.
The thermocouples come in packs of five, so I'm going to stick one on the differential the next time out as well.
04-19-2011, 08:16 PM
#19
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 33
Ansibe,
I think I read your other thread about the "GT/CS" FRPP duct kit. Everything I've seen calls the California Special a GT/CS since the California Special is a cosmetic change to a GT, with the CS lower valance, upper grill, side stripes and wheels. Maybe a few other minor changes.
Easily misleading/misunderstood.
I can't wait to hit the track.
I think I read your other thread about the "GT/CS" FRPP duct kit. Everything I've seen calls the California Special a GT/CS since the California Special is a cosmetic change to a GT, with the CS lower valance, upper grill, side stripes and wheels. Maybe a few other minor changes.
Easily misleading/misunderstood.
I can't wait to hit the track.