Suspension upgrade advise for 5.0 NEWB
09-20-2011, 09:51 PM
#1
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: WI
Posts: 107
Suspension upgrade advise for 5.0 NEWB
Hey,
New to the Mustang world, I use to drive a RX-8, that is until a fox crossed my path and I nailed a tree. It's been two years since I've been on a track but now with the 5.0 i will going at it again.
It is my DD, yes even through the WI winter. I'm looking to upgrade the suspension midway next summer after I have a few track days under my belt. The car will be driven at Road America, Blackhawk Farms, and Autobahn country club, 4-8 track days a season. Just so I can start planning the funds for this I want some advise from Mustang experts on a good set-up for my needs.
Since it will be driven in the winter I think I may need coilovers since i will want to adjust the ride height. Regular springs and shock would give me about a 1 inch drop but during winter I will want to bring back to stock height in order to have more clearence. Based on the need to adjust ride hight what are my options? I've never dealt with coilovers, on my 8 I had the MS suspension, which proved a little to low for winter. I would need a set that are easily adjustable without taking the whole system apart. Would also like adjustability for rebound, compression, corner weight etc... Price permiting, if not than ride height adjustability would be fine as long as the coilovers are good for track use?
Ready to listen
New to the Mustang world, I use to drive a RX-8, that is until a fox crossed my path and I nailed a tree. It's been two years since I've been on a track but now with the 5.0 i will going at it again.
It is my DD, yes even through the WI winter. I'm looking to upgrade the suspension midway next summer after I have a few track days under my belt. The car will be driven at Road America, Blackhawk Farms, and Autobahn country club, 4-8 track days a season. Just so I can start planning the funds for this I want some advise from Mustang experts on a good set-up for my needs.
Since it will be driven in the winter I think I may need coilovers since i will want to adjust the ride height. Regular springs and shock would give me about a 1 inch drop but during winter I will want to bring back to stock height in order to have more clearence. Based on the need to adjust ride hight what are my options? I've never dealt with coilovers, on my 8 I had the MS suspension, which proved a little to low for winter. I would need a set that are easily adjustable without taking the whole system apart. Would also like adjustability for rebound, compression, corner weight etc... Price permiting, if not than ride height adjustability would be fine as long as the coilovers are good for track use?
Ready to listen
09-21-2011, 10:05 AM
#2
Former Sponsor
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,936
What you just described are KW Variant 3's http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...216&ModelID=35, Steeda Coil-overs http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...216&ModelID=35, or Eibach R2's http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...216&ModelID=35
Both have adjustable dampers. KW's are independently adjustable for compression and rebound each, Steeda's have one adjuster that changes both simultaneously. Also, KW's while adjustable for height are still lower than stock even set at their highest. The Steeda's can be set to a more stock height, and don't go as low. The Eibach's have the greatest range of adjustment, the softest spring rates overall, independently adjustable compression and rebound. But, I tend to prefer the KW valving a little better....
Anyway, as you can see we have options.
Both have adjustable dampers. KW's are independently adjustable for compression and rebound each, Steeda's have one adjuster that changes both simultaneously. Also, KW's while adjustable for height are still lower than stock even set at their highest. The Steeda's can be set to a more stock height, and don't go as low. The Eibach's have the greatest range of adjustment, the softest spring rates overall, independently adjustable compression and rebound. But, I tend to prefer the KW valving a little better....
Anyway, as you can see we have options.
09-21-2011, 10:45 AM
#4
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Kansas
Posts: 178
Good to see another former RX-8 driver; not sure if you recall DPE or not, but I was a site sponsor on RX8club.com for a couple years. RX-8 parts were half my business . Might be why I went out of business? Not enough RX-8s 
.
As for your question, don't underestimate just doing shocks without springs for a DD. I have Koni Sports on my 2010 with OEM springs, and it honestly works better than I expected on track (also have Steeda HD mounts to help get a little more negative camber). Which is to say very good. Not saying there aren't benefits from lowering, but there are drawbacks for a daily driven car and the real weak link in the suspension is the shocks. Then you can tweak balance with a set of Sam's swaybars (have not done this yet, but may one day), and have a very decent setup for track use and maintain stock ride-height.
Now if you have the cash, by all means go for the coilovers, but I just wanted to throw that out there.
. Might be why I went out of business? Not enough RX-8s . As for your question, don't underestimate just doing shocks without springs for a DD. I have Koni Sports on my 2010 with OEM springs, and it honestly works better than I expected on track (also have Steeda HD mounts to help get a little more negative camber). Which is to say very good. Not saying there aren't benefits from lowering, but there are drawbacks for a daily driven car and the real weak link in the suspension is the shocks. Then you can tweak balance with a set of Sam's swaybars (have not done this yet, but may one day), and have a very decent setup for track use and maintain stock ride-height.
Now if you have the cash, by all means go for the coilovers, but I just wanted to throw that out there.
09-21-2011, 11:11 AM
#5
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: WI
Posts: 107
What you just described are KW Variant 3's http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...216&ModelID=35, Steeda Coil-overs http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...216&ModelID=35, or Eibach R2's http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...216&ModelID=35
Both have adjustable dampers. KW's are independently adjustable for compression and rebound each, Steeda's have one adjuster that changes both simultaneously. Also, KW's while adjustable for height are still lower than stock even set at their highest. The Steeda's can be set to a more stock height, and don't go as low. The Eibach's have the greatest range of adjustment, the softest spring rates overall, independently adjustable compression and rebound. But, I tend to prefer the KW valving a little better....
Anyway, as you can see we have options.
Both have adjustable dampers. KW's are independently adjustable for compression and rebound each, Steeda's have one adjuster that changes both simultaneously. Also, KW's while adjustable for height are still lower than stock even set at their highest. The Steeda's can be set to a more stock height, and don't go as low. The Eibach's have the greatest range of adjustment, the softest spring rates overall, independently adjustable compression and rebound. But, I tend to prefer the KW valving a little better....
Anyway, as you can see we have options.
On a separate note, I am used to IRS rears and notice this feels differently and a little unsettling over rough roads. I knew this getting the Mustang but I just wonder what if anything I can do to limit the unsettling of the live rear over bumps?
Thanks
09-21-2011, 11:23 AM
#6
Former Sponsor
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,936
<Waves hi> I guess "I'm the guy".
You don't have to take anything apart to adjust the height. It would be a good idea to consider a method of realigning the body over the axle like an adjustable Panhard bar, or way better a Watts link which would not have to be readjusted when you change height and of course just does away with the arcing motion of the body as it moves up and down as you drive the car.
Being that your car is a 2011+ you'd need some 2010 type strut mounts to install any of the aftermarket dampers correctly.
Yes, some good shocks make a big difference, the Watts link that much more on top of the shocks. Live axles get a bum deal from crappy shocks, and stock shocks are pretty crappy.
I guess "I'm the guy". You don't have to take anything apart to adjust the height. It would be a good idea to consider a method of realigning the body over the axle like an adjustable Panhard bar, or way better a Watts link which would not have to be readjusted when you change height and of course just does away with the arcing motion of the body as it moves up and down as you drive the car.
Being that your car is a 2011+ you'd need some 2010 type strut mounts to install any of the aftermarket dampers correctly.
Yes, some good shocks make a big difference, the Watts link that much more on top of the shocks. Live axles get a bum deal from crappy shocks, and stock shocks are pretty crappy.
09-21-2011, 12:34 PM
#7
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: WI
Posts: 107
Good to see another former RX-8 driver; not sure if you recall DPE or not, but I was a site sponsor on RX8club.com for a couple years. RX-8 parts were half my business . Might be why I went out of business? Not enough RX-8s .
As for your question, don't underestimate just doing shocks without springs for a DD. I have Koni Sports on my 2010 with OEM springs, and it honestly works better than I expected on track (also have Steeda HD mounts to help get a little more negative camber). Which is to say very good. Not saying there aren't benefits from lowering, but there are drawbacks for a daily driven car and the real weak link in the suspension is the shocks. Then you can tweak balance with a set of Sam's swaybars (have not done this yet, but may one day), and have a very decent setup for track use and maintain stock ride-height.
Now if you have the cash, by all means go for the coilovers, but I just wanted to throw that out there.
. Might be why I went out of business? Not enough RX-8s . As for your question, don't underestimate just doing shocks without springs for a DD. I have Koni Sports on my 2010 with OEM springs, and it honestly works better than I expected on track (also have Steeda HD mounts to help get a little more negative camber). Which is to say very good. Not saying there aren't benefits from lowering, but there are drawbacks for a daily driven car and the real weak link in the suspension is the shocks. Then you can tweak balance with a set of Sam's swaybars (have not done this yet, but may one day), and have a very decent setup for track use and maintain stock ride-height.
Now if you have the cash, by all means go for the coilovers, but I just wanted to throw that out there.
09-21-2011, 02:04 PM
#9
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: WI
Posts: 107
<Waves hi> I guess "I'm the guy".
You don't have to take anything apart to adjust the height. It would be a good idea to consider a method of realigning the body over the axle like an adjustable Panhard bar, or way better a Watts link which would not have to be readjusted when you change height and of course just does away with the arcing motion of the body as it moves up and down as you drive the car.
Being that your car is a 2011+ you'd need some 2010 type strut mounts to install any of the aftermarket dampers correctly.
Yes, some good shocks make a big difference, the Watts link that much more on top of the shocks. Live axles get a bum deal from crappy shocks, and stock shocks are pretty crappy.
I guess "I'm the guy". You don't have to take anything apart to adjust the height. It would be a good idea to consider a method of realigning the body over the axle like an adjustable Panhard bar, or way better a Watts link which would not have to be readjusted when you change height and of course just does away with the arcing motion of the body as it moves up and down as you drive the car.
Being that your car is a 2011+ you'd need some 2010 type strut mounts to install any of the aftermarket dampers correctly.
Yes, some good shocks make a big difference, the Watts link that much more on top of the shocks. Live axles get a bum deal from crappy shocks, and stock shocks are pretty crappy.
