Lv XLR8N

I have a UMI 1055 bar, roto ends on both ends. I have replaced the bolts to get rid of the stepped factory bolt, I have tightened the delrin race. lock nuts are tight. If I rock the car back and forth side to side it makes noise. While driving this noise is worse obviously, most noticible when hitting bumps... It sounds like something is going to fall apart. I have traced it to the bar. I think its the bars hole is still bigger than the bolt? Like UMI made the hole 1mm too big?

Anyone else running this bar and have noise? Its driving me bonkers. I'm going to prob order a new bar, with poly ends and see if that will be better.

gmoran1469

It's the rod-ends. They will make some noise no matter what, but also allow the bar to roll and actuate more like it should. Almost sounds like something is loose but that's just the rod-ends rotating around.

Did the one you received have a locknut to stop the locking mechanism from backing out? The first one I got didn't have it as it wasn't even designed like that. Both my rod-end locks backed out and basically fell apart so they sent me some brand new ones with locknuts to prevent that from happening. I haven't had a problem since.

Make sure you torqued the bolts back to spec also, I forget what exactly it is.

I run the 1055 as well. You have to make a decision, noise vs. performance, I like the feel of the 1055, makes the rear feel more like it's under control and throttle control more precise when cornering. I also run the Steeda Adj. UCA and the Steeda Billet LCA's w/ the spherical bearing on one end.

I run Koni STR.T's and Steeda sport springs just like you do too. I love my suspension setup as it is now. I am about to upgrade the 3rd-link bushing to a spherical as well. I replaced the stock one with the Steeda Urethane one but after some research, the harder urethane doesn't allow the 3rd-link to actuate properly and actually causes it to bind more than the stock bushing does, but the stock bushing is not solid enough for my liking.

Lv XLR8N

Gmoran, thanks for the info. Im not sure what to look for on the locknuts??? I bought the special tool for tightening it up when it wears out? Not sure if thats the locknut your talking about. tq spec for panhard bar is 129 ft lbs.

What drives me crazy tho in order to re-tighten the rotojoints, I have to pull the whole bar out to get the tool on it.

Thanks again.

gmoran1469

Yup, talking about the little ring you screw in to lock the roto-joint in place. There should be a set screw for that thing. If there isn't a set screw to keep the ring from backing out you should call UMI and get them to send you some new ones.