UrS4

Mods are in sig but here is the list too.

Tires: Rikken Raptor 255/50/17 300 tread wear rating

Wheels: Stock 17 x 8

Suspension: Koni STR.T shocks and struts, Steeda Ultralites, Steeda HD strut mounts, Strano adj sways, Stteda competition adj end links, Spohn adj poly/Delrin rear LCA, Spohn adj poly/spherical PHB, Steeda PHB brace, Steeda A arm brace, Ford facing front strut tower brace.

Power: JLT II CAI and Brenspeed tune, Steeda UDPs, Corsa axel backs

Drivetrain: Spidershaft 1 pc. Al DS, 4.10 gears, MGW shifter

Brakes: SS brake lines, upgraded fluid, hawk hps pads

4 pt Schroth harness, snell 2010 helmet.

Ran three events in the last month at thunderhill raceway.

Issues on track: brake pads had good initial bite but heated up fast and had faded bad. Tires held up remarkably well. I've had them for 6 years and they were at 60% life and now after three events at 35%. I ran them cold at 40 psi and the shoulder blocks showed no signs of rolling over, they squealed but did fine. Last event was in 110 degree heat with track temps near 150, tire temps near 190-200. Car had pegged the water temp once but then stayed in the upper high after I ran the heater full blast while on track, sweated my **** off! Also got a slight hum from DS at 120 mph.

So in summary, brakes, cooling, and tires are what I see as the biggest problems.

Brakes: Different pads, brake duct cooling, different rotors, BBK?

Cooling: go back to standard pulleys, electric water pump?

Tires: I plan on 18x9.5 PF01 with 255/45/18 softer compound

Hope to hear from the track guys but any experienced racer input is greatly appreciated.

jackal119

My 2cents,
Do you trailer car to the track? It maybe time full set of Race Pads which I would avoid driving on the street. It will depend more on the track's layout and how good of a driver you are. Tires you need another size it’s rare to find anything good at 255/45/18 try 275/35-18 that should still fit on those 9.5 PF01. Speedo will be off but I sure you got the tools to fix that. That tire pressure is pretty high for HPDE, I always ran mine at stock values with my OEM tires.
Are you club Racing with the car? If so you may want to wait for another who does as well. The Club rules can be pretty nuts to follow.

moochman4life

I didn't see this in your post, but what pads were you running?

Those Rikens are holding you back. But new anthying doesn't matter if you're not working on the driver mod.

UrS4

Hawk HPS pads.

Done 9 events with three different HPDE programs which is be no means a lot, but per the coaches/instructors have been moved up to intermediate run group in each. Programs are Audi club North America glacier lakes chapter, hooked on driving and trackmasters. Driver mod is coming along.

Side wall on the rikkens is too high so I keep 38 psi on the street, recommended 35 on door tag which is too soft for me. Run 40 at the track. Thought I would kill the tires off in the last three events but not even close. Don't like throwing away half used tires.

No, I don't trailer my car as its my daily driver, so I guess that means i don't drive 9/10ths at the track either, usually 7-8/10ths and I usually focus on a set of corners to improve on each session rather than white knuckle the whole course.

255/45/18 is a size with lots of tire selection and very cheap compared to 285/40/18. Haven't looked at 275/35/18. I run 4.10 and with a shorter tire like that I will be in fifth gear which is not ideal so I don't think I will run that tire. Plus what ever wheel tire i go to, it will be run on the street too. Pads/rotors i will switch right be fore the event.

tigercrazy718

how was your powersteering? did it boil over at all? mine was boiling over during summer track days till i switched to redline fluid. just curious what another hot weather mustang racer experienced

jackal119

I see what your trying to do, I also kind of on the same track of mind but I have way less in mods. With being in the intermediate you may want to try out the HP+ I know some folks don't care for them there not ideal for every track. If you want to move to the 14"+ front brake kit your going to need new rims for both DD and track. This is where it seem to run into a lot of money But for brakes you only got a few options one the 14"+ kits will cut down on the heat for a bit but you will need new rims as those old 17" you have will not fit anymore or get a full racepad, rotors, etc and change them at the track. I seen many folks do that for there Vettes. That 4.10 really needs to be pulled and moved back to a 3.71(I think) or 3.55 its just going to really make a mess of a track car for anything but drag racing.

Norm Peterson

HPS is still a street pad. It's good enough for autocross, probably fairly hard mountain driving, and maybe OK for your first few instructed track sessions where you're working on the line, hitting your marks, and other track skills where your speeds and braking requirements are still leaving a good bit on the table. You should already be using one of the better DOT4 fluids - Motul, maybe the amber version of ATE blue just off the top of my head (the blue stuff tends to stain plastics).

My opinion - once you're soloing you need to have moved up a notch or two. HP+ may be enough for the next few outings if you can keep them from fading, and they are streetable enough that you can change them out at home rather than trackside. They're dusty, noisy, and noticeably harsher on your rotors (I've got HP+ up front only), and you'll be recalibrating your pedal force as a result of having much better bite - it is after all an entry-level track pad or so Hawk claims.

Standard pulleys at least. If you're seeing ambient temperatures well over 100°F, an oil cooler too. Don't mount it directly in front of the coolant radiator and A/C condenser either, else it'll reheat your coolant some. Speaking of the radiator and condenser, have you flushed out the usual bugs, leaf bits, and mud that tends to collect there? Carefully straightened out any bent fins?

Electric water pumps are relatively better at low speeds where they are still pumping at a constant rpm and flow rate vs the engine driven pump turning over in accordance with engine rpm.

I've run on 255/45-18 GY Asymmetrics on 18 x 9.5 GT500 wheels. It's still a smallish tire for 3500# plus ? for the driver, and you may feel them go off toward the end of a session. Part of that may be due to a several psi pressure increase as a function of tire temperatures, where you simply lose mechanical grip.

With 4.10's and with 27" tall tires (still don't know what size you are running), I'm surprised that you aren't using 5th already. I'm only seeing 115-ish being available in 4th @ 6000 rpm (including tire distortion effects). Then again, the T-hill track map isn't giving any track dimensions, so I have no real idea how fast it is.


Norm


Norm

UrS4

Norm, tire size is 255/50/17 so its right at 27.1 in tall.

I am seeing 5th on the main straight and get up to 120mph. I was short shifting at 5600 rpm instead of 6250 rpm to also help with keeping it cooler. It is my daily driver still so I will be keeping the 4.10.

Due to my brakes fading and not having enough confidence in them (missing apexes due not scrubbing off enough speed and pushing), I was doing more coasting at the top of 4th and not giving it full throttle at all, usually 3/4 throttle. Obviously accelerating at less than full throttle and coasting are not how I want to progress or can improve track times.

I'm soloed but do get an instructor for at least one session each time to make sure I'm progressing, not picking up bad habits, and trying new lines and shift points. No one has said my braking modulation is poor as in I don't ride or drag brakes or apply them too early, lift, then apply again implying that I am creating a longer braking zone and chewing through my brakes. They usually say, I should carry more speed and not to coast. Once I give my braking concerns they understand.

The last event was the anomaly as far as high ambient heat but in the valley in NorCal, it can get that hot. Looking at my radiator, there are tons of bugs, debri, and many bent fins, car is 7 years old. How do I clean it? Just power wash it?

In addition prior to the last event I had the brake fluid changed to a dot 3-4 fluid but not motul, rear diff service, and coolant flush with supposedly high quality BG products per Ford. Actually a little disappointed in that companies website as it gives no actual specs.

Also did the rear axel vent tsb so I didn't burb fluid like last time.

So oil cooler and back to standard pulleys, anything else?

notsofast

You might consider getting oil and water temp gauges. On my M3 track car I was seeing oil temps of 260 routinely at the track. With a high-capacity aluminum radiator, an 80 deg C T-stat, and an oil cooler, oil temps are now below 200.
Regarding your brakes, I ran Hawk HP+ pads initially on the M3 - not bad beginner track pads, but they will fade as you pick up your speed. Also the Mustang is a bit heavier than the e36 M3, so more brake is going to be needed. As others have said, I'd consider stepping up your pads to something like Hawk HT-10s. They're a race pad but you can put them on at home and drive to the track with them. Watch you pad wear/thickness closely and bring an extra set with you just in case. I'd also recommend upgrading your brake fluid to one better suited to the higher temps of the track - maybe ATE amber or Motul. A Motiv pressure bleeder isn't too expensive and will allow you to bleed your brake fluid at the track if things get mushy.
I think of brakes more as safety equipment than a performance upgrade, although it is clearly both, and should be on the list of initial "mods" for HPDEs and track days. This will give you the best bang for the buck. Save the money you could have spent on a big brake kit on track time and another set of tires.

moochman4life

I run HT10s as well. Awesome track pad!

Whatever tire you go with, I recommend something in the 200 treadware rating or less category. Especially as you start progressing with your driver mod. You'll have your current ones singing like a fat lady, and you'll be holding yourself back.

What track is this at again?