Strut Repair Suggestions
#1
Strut Repair Suggestions
My Car: '14 V6 Mustang
Hello,
I recently purchased a Strut Tower Brace and I took one of the nuts off the strut to go shopping for a replacement set. After coming back empty-handed, I decided to go ahead and screw the nut back into the bolt. Honestly it was hot and I was rushing myself. I looked up torque specs on my phone and accidentally used the torque spec for the strut tower bolt (46ft/lbs instead of 26ft/lbs). Needless to say, the bolt snapped. Looking at our setup, it looks like the bolt is part of the assembly so extracting the bolt and replacing it wouldn't work. I took it to the dealership and played coy. "I don't know what happened!" batting my eyelashes and curtsying my dress (I know that may not work as a guy, but hey! It's Austin!) Of course their techs looked at it and said there was no way in hell that it wasn't human error and Ford wouldn't honor the warranty. They quoted me ~$300 to fix ($70 for the upper assembly plus labor), however a local shop quoted me $175 in labor for both sides if need be (same price as one side). I was thinking if they're going to have to pull the strut out, I might as well put some better struts on.
My question is, could I get a way with putting something like Koni STR front struts and leave the springs and rear shocks OEM? This is a Base V6. Would this negatively affect the geometry? I am also considering the Steeda strut and shock kit since it isn't too bad of a price for a complete set.
So what do y'all think? Should I just have the top strut assembly replaced and stick with OEMs? Should I get Koni STR front struts? Steeda kit? Or wait until I have enough cash to get a full Koni adjustable kit? Mind you, I consider this car a DD/Weekend Spirited Driving. I don't plan on going on weekly AutoX/Track Days...for now.
Hello,
I recently purchased a Strut Tower Brace and I took one of the nuts off the strut to go shopping for a replacement set. After coming back empty-handed, I decided to go ahead and screw the nut back into the bolt. Honestly it was hot and I was rushing myself. I looked up torque specs on my phone and accidentally used the torque spec for the strut tower bolt (46ft/lbs instead of 26ft/lbs). Needless to say, the bolt snapped. Looking at our setup, it looks like the bolt is part of the assembly so extracting the bolt and replacing it wouldn't work. I took it to the dealership and played coy. "I don't know what happened!" batting my eyelashes and curtsying my dress (I know that may not work as a guy, but hey! It's Austin!) Of course their techs looked at it and said there was no way in hell that it wasn't human error and Ford wouldn't honor the warranty. They quoted me ~$300 to fix ($70 for the upper assembly plus labor), however a local shop quoted me $175 in labor for both sides if need be (same price as one side). I was thinking if they're going to have to pull the strut out, I might as well put some better struts on.
My question is, could I get a way with putting something like Koni STR front struts and leave the springs and rear shocks OEM? This is a Base V6. Would this negatively affect the geometry? I am also considering the Steeda strut and shock kit since it isn't too bad of a price for a complete set.
So what do y'all think? Should I just have the top strut assembly replaced and stick with OEMs? Should I get Koni STR front struts? Steeda kit? Or wait until I have enough cash to get a full Koni adjustable kit? Mind you, I consider this car a DD/Weekend Spirited Driving. I don't plan on going on weekly AutoX/Track Days...for now.
#2
It's hard to believe the stud would break if only tightened to 46 ft/lbs - but it did so here's what I would do...
If you're reasonably happy with the stock suspension, just get the upper mount replaced and call it a day.
If you feel the need to replace the struts - then this would be a good time to go in that direction. Be careful though because the next thing "you might as well do" is to replace the stock springs with lowering springs. Next is replacing the upper strut mounts with new adjustable mounts so you can get the alignment right. Then it's new control arms - upper and lower in the rear, along with an adjustable panhard bar. And after all that, you might as well do new sway bars, wheels and tires!
It's a slippery slope you're on... so be careful or you'll be out $2000 or $3000 - or more if you have the work done by a shop.
Been there... done that... and have multiple tee shirts to prove it!
If you're reasonably happy with the stock suspension, just get the upper mount replaced and call it a day.
If you feel the need to replace the struts - then this would be a good time to go in that direction. Be careful though because the next thing "you might as well do" is to replace the stock springs with lowering springs. Next is replacing the upper strut mounts with new adjustable mounts so you can get the alignment right. Then it's new control arms - upper and lower in the rear, along with an adjustable panhard bar. And after all that, you might as well do new sway bars, wheels and tires!
It's a slippery slope you're on... so be careful or you'll be out $2000 or $3000 - or more if you have the work done by a shop.
Been there... done that... and have multiple tee shirts to prove it!
#3
I wouldn't just replace the fronts and not the rears. The valving is different between Koni and stock. The balance (front rear) will be affected by this. Either do it all or don't do it at all is my opinion.
TBH, just buy a new strut mount and replace it yourself. Go to a shop and have the alignment redone and call it good. Unless you're willing to do it right for upgrades? (Set of four Koni dampers and matching springs). You'll be done for half of the $175.
If you're not doing AutoX I would pass on the adjustable ones.
TBH, just buy a new strut mount and replace it yourself. Go to a shop and have the alignment redone and call it good. Unless you're willing to do it right for upgrades? (Set of four Koni dampers and matching springs). You'll be done for half of the $175.
If you're not doing AutoX I would pass on the adjustable ones.
#4
I wouldn't just replace the fronts and not the rears. The valving is different between Koni and stock. The balance (front rear) will be affected by this. Either do it all or don't do it at all is my opinion.
TBH, just buy a new strut mount and replace it yourself. Go to a shop and have the alignment redone and call it good. Unless you're willing to do it right for upgrades? (Set of four Koni dampers and matching springs). You'll be done for half of the $175.
If you're not doing AutoX I would pass on the adjustable ones.
TBH, just buy a new strut mount and replace it yourself. Go to a shop and have the alignment redone and call it good. Unless you're willing to do it right for upgrades? (Set of four Koni dampers and matching springs). You'll be done for half of the $175.
If you're not doing AutoX I would pass on the adjustable ones.
#5
As to your question about keeping the OE springs with Koni STRt's . . . you'd be fine.
I installed a set of Koni yellows on my '08 GT over 4 years ago and I'm still on my OE springs. I track my car that way (a week from Friday will be the 4th track day this month, 8th this year).
If it bothers you to have to basically have the front suspension disassembled and re-aligned twice, then you might consider doing the springs, struts, and shocks all at once. It's not so bad if you can DIY the jobs (yes, alignment is DIY-able).
Norm
I installed a set of Koni yellows on my '08 GT over 4 years ago and I'm still on my OE springs. I track my car that way (a week from Friday will be the 4th track day this month, 8th this year).
If it bothers you to have to basically have the front suspension disassembled and re-aligned twice, then you might consider doing the springs, struts, and shocks all at once. It's not so bad if you can DIY the jobs (yes, alignment is DIY-able).
Norm
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