Issue with BC coilover and BMR panhard bar
07-22-2012, 01:10 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: OH
Posts: 3
Issue with BC coilover and BMR panhard bar
Recently, I installed a set of BC coilover and bmr panhard bar to my buddy's 2012 mustang. There are two issue with noises.
For the first we installed, there were some noise came out from his rear end. I believe was the bushings because I didn't lube the poly bushings. However, he told me it doesn't sound like bushings? any thought? Could be bump stop or anything? I have notice the pad that came with BC doesn't match with stock one...
After 3-4 weeks installation, he told me there was a clunk noise coming out from his front passenger side. It happened only when he tried to make a turn, and 2-3 days ago he told me now the noise is getting worse. If he tries to go over speed bumper or holes, it will make a huge clunk clunk noise...
I haven't looked at his car, but any feedback will be good?
For those who has BC coilover on, do you have to use their front sway bar links that include in the package or the stock one?
For the first we installed, there were some noise came out from his rear end. I believe was the bushings because I didn't lube the poly bushings. However, he told me it doesn't sound like bushings? any thought? Could be bump stop or anything? I have notice the pad that came with BC doesn't match with stock one...
After 3-4 weeks installation, he told me there was a clunk noise coming out from his front passenger side. It happened only when he tried to make a turn, and 2-3 days ago he told me now the noise is getting worse. If he tries to go over speed bumper or holes, it will make a huge clunk clunk noise...
I haven't looked at his car, but any feedback will be good?
For those who has BC coilover on, do you have to use their front sway bar links that include in the package or the stock one?
07-23-2012, 08:44 AM
#2
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
The clunk is probably associated with the stabilizer bar endlink bolts. The OE endlinks have been problematic as far as achieving the proper fastener torque is concerned. More so in the earlier years, but that doesn't necessarily mean that the problem has gone away for good.
Unless I had some other aftermarket endlinks, I'd tend to use the links in the package, as there ought to be a reason they included them (see ↑↑↑).
Norm
Unless I had some other aftermarket endlinks, I'd tend to use the links in the package, as there ought to be a reason they included them (see ↑↑↑).
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 07-23-2012 at 08:49 AM.
07-28-2012, 10:15 PM
#3
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Close Enough
Posts: 231
+1 on the endlinks.
For the front it is 42 lbs/ft for the endlinks and 85 for the bushings, the rear is the opposite. 42 for the bushings and 85 for the endlinks. You have to install and torque then drive and re-torque. I had to do re-torque twice.
The front endlinks can be a PITA to get torqued properly.
The bolts are supposed to be tightened with the weight on the suspension so what I did was to place a jack under the shock tower and raise the car just enough to remove the wheel, then lower it down a couple of inches so I could get to the endlink bolt easier.
For the front it is 42 lbs/ft for the endlinks and 85 for the bushings, the rear is the opposite. 42 for the bushings and 85 for the endlinks. You have to install and torque then drive and re-torque. I had to do re-torque twice.
The front endlinks can be a PITA to get torqued properly.
The bolts are supposed to be tightened with the weight on the suspension so what I did was to place a jack under the shock tower and raise the car just enough to remove the wheel, then lower it down a couple of inches so I could get to the endlink bolt easier.
08-24-2012, 05:45 AM
#5
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
What year Mustang?
You ought to be able to just loosen the three or four attachment bolts and slide the strut top in or out to suit. With C-C plates for the S197 you may be able to pry against the plate through the access holes. I don't know about the earlier platforms. In any event it may be easier if you jack the car to unload the wheel, though you might have to re-do the setup.
If they are caster-camber plates, make sute that you don't upset the caster.
Just a rough guess - 1/4" should be somewhere near half a degree for the S197, maybe a little more for the earlier cars.
Norm
You ought to be able to just loosen the three or four attachment bolts and slide the strut top in or out to suit. With C-C plates for the S197 you may be able to pry against the plate through the access holes. I don't know about the earlier platforms. In any event it may be easier if you jack the car to unload the wheel, though you might have to re-do the setup.
If they are caster-camber plates, make sute that you don't upset the caster.
Just a rough guess - 1/4" should be somewhere near half a degree for the S197, maybe a little more for the earlier cars.
Norm
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