stealth_GT

Full exhaust meaning long tubes, O/R pipes, catback?

Are you running 17's for drag radials and what size?

Thinking about running skinnies up front and drags in back when I go with a 3800 stall next year.. I wanna see how low I can go with just basic bolt on's..

Stone629

Yea, had OBX long tubes, O/R Y pipe, and stock cat-back with cut-out. On that 12.2 run I was on the stock ZR1 17s and Hankook 275 street tires. I'll look for the vid.

Skinnies and slicks go a LONG ways. Being able to launch at full power is worth a lot of time.

stealth_GT

Preference on brands? ( Torque converter ) I hear great things about the Yank 3800/4000's, but I have no real experience with any of them...

My car is so clean and been garaged, babied most of it's life, makes me feel a little bad for spreading it's wings some lol

It's all good.. the Beast has roam free!

Stone629

Yank is the best, imo. I ran a Vigilante and it did well. Circle D, is a little further down the totem pole, then TCI, etc. Basically, when it comes to stall converters it comes down to efficiency. The Yanks are the most efficient, meaning they suck up the least amount of power and produce the least amount of heat, yet kick out the best launch and also hold more top end. Others work just fine, but if you want the most out of it go ahead and spend as much as you can afford to part with and buy the best you can afford. If you only have $300-400 to part with, thats fine, get one off ebay. Check out the STR, diameter, etc, talk to the stall builder about your gearing and what you want so they can can get you the right verter. Anything is better than stock.

stealth_GT

Ditto.. I have heard a lot of great things about Yank Converters. Honestly, I just want something simple and a no brainer. Something that flashes consistently and not terrible on the street but a little slippage is acceptable. I think I will go with a Yank 3800 next season, my funds will be tapped out after all the maintenance stuff I need to do anyways lol

Is tomorrow the big day? I still have to wait a week! Doh!

Stone629

Yea man, get that stall, and a trans cooler. I'd leave the 3.23s and add a tire. That car will surprise the **** out of you, trust me.

This weekend is out as far as the track goes. There's an event planned there so no test n tune. Then Sunday they are closed for Mother's Day..plus there's a tropical depression stalled out offshore sending bands of rain/wind through. Supposed to meet up with two buddies tomorrow at 2:00 for a run though. One is a cammed, full exhaust, stalled LS2 GTO. The other is a full bolt-on, 4.10 geared, cammed Mach 1. Going to see where I'm at I guess, lol. I've got weight and a nice flat TQ curve o my side. Other than that, yea

stealth_GT

This car has surprised me so much already! On paper, in my mind it's like "305hp".. so it should be as fast as my old 08 4.6 GT but it feels more like a Hemi in a light *** chassis lol

I bet that converter and tires will really make this thing take off!

I think your Z would hold it's own against those two other cars you mentioned. I also think it'll run in the 12.8/12.9 area.

Is it safe to run without a trans cooler? I wanted to race this weekend also, but not sure if it was okay or not?

I am bare bones stock. No smokey burn outs for me, just launching it rolling on the throttle. I hear out 10 bolt rear ends aren't all that tough also lol.

Trying to buy back some tires/rims I sold last summer to a guy with a '13 Challenger RT. It was a 26.8 tall tire, MT ET Streets, bias ply racing tires.. looks/feels like a full on slick.

Stone629

I know GM rated your car at 305hp years ago, but it's been a long known fact they produce the same 350hp and 350tq as the "Vette" ls1 did. You're probably making at least 300 at the wheels.

A stall will knock a half second off your ET and multiply your TQ a lot and let you launch at a higher RPM. I like them too because it'll let you blip your throttle at people, next buildings, tunnels, etc at any MPH and make a nice exhaust bark.

It's safe, just don't make more than 2 back to back pulls without letting it cool down. It's the heat that wipes the 4l60 out.

10 bolts are usually decent behind an automatic. Manuals tend to go through them for obvious reasons. I like the 10 bolt due to it not weighing anything. And they're cheap.

stealth_GT

Thank makes sense. I took it lightly on my first few drives like " I don't know what all the big fuss was about".. than I nailed the throttle at a low roll in a narrow road and HOLY SHIET!.. the tires lit up, rear end kicked out, front end lifted and it took off so hard it threw me back in my seat!

Best 300hp engine I ever felt was my first thought.. second thought, lets do it again

Can't wait to get that converter done, if I can knock out 0.5 off any times that would be worth the money. I know my my Chargers, it dropped off 0.8 at most and 0.5 on average. With the AWD it was pretty amazing. Aiming for 1.6/1.7's in the LS1 on some drags and skinnies. Might be hard to come by with only bolt on's but I am wagering on it's light weight and some suspension work to get all the power down.

Good to hear these rear ends handle better in the auto than the manuals... didn't want to upgrade if I didn't have to, though I have been reading about the Posi 3.42 gears also..

Stone629

1.6-1.7s are absolutely no problem for a bolt on and stalled LS1. You can do it on nitto DRs, no need for slicks if that's all you want.