V6 (1994-2004) MustangsTechnical discussions on the 3.8L and 3.9L V6 torque monsters Sponsored by Optima Batteries
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95 mustang overheated then knocked and now wont start!!!
Well I wasnt in the car when it happened BUT from the explaination I got all of a sudden the car over heated no real good reason then started knocking and died all in about 1-2 minutes. So i looked first at the cooling, but it had plenty of antifreeze and still does the radiator and the overflow now is full. So I checked the oil (well ok after i paniced and threw 2 quarts in) but the oil is now 2 quarts over on the stick so that wasnt the problem, I then moved to see if the trans fluid was ok and it is, Then i said well lets see if its locked up but it turns over when you try to start it (by turns over i mean the surpentine belt still spins meaning the crank isnt locked). It makes the high pitched sound that it usually makes when first trying to start but never hits the low roar of it actually firing. Im going to check spark plugs in the morning and all that jazz but does anyone have any clue what could have gone wrong?
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Thanx for the reply im not sure if I was really clear in my original post but the engine never ran with 2 quarts 2 much oil in it. The oil level was right where it was supposed to be and only after it had happened did I throw 2 quarts more oil in it after the driver stated there was a ton of oil on the ground. Upon looking into it further today the engine isnt locked it spins freely and the valves move. I changed the spark plugs cause they needed it but still the engine will not fire. There is no water in the oil I did check for that its not milky in any way. The only thing that i can think of is that the timing is off thus it has no compression but I dont have a compression gauge here to check that for sure. There also was no evidence that the oil dropped out of the car at all as they stated so im guessing maybe it was antifreeze from where the car over heated. I guess my next step will be to take it down to a shop and get the timing fixed see if that corrects the issue hope the knock didnt damage anything and go from there. If not I would say you are correct in it being the headgasket thats the only other logical step but my question is even with the headgasket blown wouldnt the engine still start and run for a bit?
well the major problem is I am the owner. In the week leading up to the breakdown I had finished fixing my front end when i went to back up i noticed a considerable loss of power right after starting it and trying to move but it returned to normal so I ignored it. The next time I shut it off and turned it back on for about a minute after starting it the engine stuttered like it was out of gas but there was a half a tank in it. I shut it off to place the wheel back on it and it started right up no problem but the check engine light was on. So I was going to get it checked out but it had turned off the next day when I went to take it checked out. So I drive it to work the next day (yesterday) and it runs fine but the AC compressor startes turning off and staying off about 30 minutes after i drove it. It would stay off until I turned the car off and restarted it. Then I get to work and start it to look at the compressor to see if its locked and the engine starts that sputtering deal again for a few secounds then clears up once again and the compressor is working fine. So at the end of the day I drive it home with no problems except the ac still running hot after driving it a bit and the check engine light came back on. So i take it home let it run for 20 minutes and the compressor stayed on and the ac kept running cold so i thought that was odd but maybe the compressor was going out. G/F drives it to work half way there it goes through all this.
Computer controlled? Its still chain drivin and if thats not at top dead center when piston 1 hits top dead center then its out of timing right?
It sounds really wierd on trying to start and when looking for tdc on the front pully you could turn that pully with relative ease didnt even take a breaker bar just a regular rachet short extension and a socket. Almost no effort to turn that pully at all
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