The Build Plan and more! (pics)
08-27-2008, 11:20 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location:
Posts: 374
The Build Plan and more! (pics)
Well, heres the deal. Im buildin the 'Stang and I dont plan on messing around.
This is what im looking at in order or probibaly getting it.
Wheels: probibaly very soon, I NEED new tires for the car to regrester it where i am now since I moved. I want to upgrade my brakes so lets not f* around.
17" as suggested by Little Roush. I know I said bare bones 16" steel and all... These look more mean.
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Suspention: Again as suggested by Little Roush, Steeda suspention. Basic with level 1 springs if they will do that for me. Chances are this will get done next summer. Upgrade as time goes on.
http://www.steeda.com/products/gtrac_v6.php
Engine: SC 4.2 w/ Vortec from Super 6. Why not? Super Six knows a hell of alot more about these engines then I do, sure I can build one but I dont want to take the chances on screwing up. Besides, the price aint bad and if the US dollar drops below the Canadian again next summer it will be great.
After the engine I will be building side pipes, no scheild. Just stainless wraped in nomex.
http://www.supersixmotorsports.com/p...Shotblocks.pdf
?????????
Transmission/ Rear end????? Auto tranny and stock gears or taller.
?????????
Im looking in to building myself some custom alumninum bumpers skins front and rear, less curvy and more actual race car ish. Im going to build a Nascar ish spoiler to replace my stock one. Also some fender flares. My insperation is this with a little more dirt road capable:
I could redo my bumper skins whenever at work so even this winter it could get done if I dont spend all my time on my 79 Honda CB750K.
Hood: save weight where I can, today I removed my plastic rocker skirts, the stang looks a hell of alot better in my opinion. Cleaner, meaner and more classic emphesising the SN95 rebirth of the 64 style after the Fox. Its not important so its around last before the car gets painted satan black with gloss blood red stripes.
I looked in the search and wow, what a mess.
Soooo, about the transmission, how much is too much for the stock train? Im thinking its the same parts behind the cobras, should be able to take some abuce. I want to keep the auto, its better for drag racing anyway.
Where am I now?
Took the bra off last month, again the rocker skirts came off today.
And your standard issue 3.8:
il get a pic of the whole car now when I find my camera.
Well?
This is what im looking at in order or probibaly getting it.
Wheels: probibaly very soon, I NEED new tires for the car to regrester it where i am now since I moved. I want to upgrade my brakes so lets not f* around.
17" as suggested by Little Roush. I know I said bare bones 16" steel and all... These look more mean.
Suspention: Again as suggested by Little Roush, Steeda suspention. Basic with level 1 springs if they will do that for me. Chances are this will get done next summer. Upgrade as time goes on.
http://www.steeda.com/products/gtrac_v6.php
Engine: SC 4.2 w/ Vortec from Super 6. Why not? Super Six knows a hell of alot more about these engines then I do, sure I can build one but I dont want to take the chances on screwing up. Besides, the price aint bad and if the US dollar drops below the Canadian again next summer it will be great.
After the engine I will be building side pipes, no scheild. Just stainless wraped in nomex.
http://www.supersixmotorsports.com/p...Shotblocks.pdf
?????????
Transmission/ Rear end????? Auto tranny and stock gears or taller.
?????????
Im looking in to building myself some custom alumninum bumpers skins front and rear, less curvy and more actual race car ish. Im going to build a Nascar ish spoiler to replace my stock one. Also some fender flares. My insperation is this with a little more dirt road capable:
I could redo my bumper skins whenever at work so even this winter it could get done if I dont spend all my time on my 79 Honda CB750K.
Hood: save weight where I can, today I removed my plastic rocker skirts, the stang looks a hell of alot better in my opinion. Cleaner, meaner and more classic emphesising the SN95 rebirth of the 64 style after the Fox. Its not important so its around last before the car gets painted satan black with gloss blood red stripes.
I looked in the search and wow, what a mess.
Soooo, about the transmission, how much is too much for the stock train? Im thinking its the same parts behind the cobras, should be able to take some abuce. I want to keep the auto, its better for drag racing anyway.
Where am I now?
Took the bra off last month, again the rocker skirts came off today.
And your standard issue 3.8:
il get a pic of the whole car now when I find my camera.
Well?
08-28-2008, 12:31 AM
#2
Have you done the math on what this build will cost you yet?
I recommend sitting down and completely building the car on paper, and then add between 25-50%. Decide what you want the car to be able to do and what kind of power you want to make as well. If you plan on racing it, then decide if you really want to throw all that money away if you crash on your first run down the track, since your insurance probably won't cover it.
Once you are done with that, let us know what you came up with, and then I'll be more than happy to give you some solid guidance.
I recommend sitting down and completely building the car on paper, and then add between 25-50%. Decide what you want the car to be able to do and what kind of power you want to make as well. If you plan on racing it, then decide if you really want to throw all that money away if you crash on your first run down the track, since your insurance probably won't cover it.
Once you are done with that, let us know what you came up with, and then I'll be more than happy to give you some solid guidance.
08-28-2008, 01:43 AM
#4
I'm still rather miffed at how much I've spent, knowing I'm about to spend A WHOLE LOT more.
It would just be nice if after spending the money i could actually enjoy it without having to worry about some kid seeing what his rev limiter maxes out at slamming into me before I get a chance to enjoy it.
It would just be nice if after spending the money i could actually enjoy it without having to worry about some kid seeing what his rev limiter maxes out at slamming into me before I get a chance to enjoy it.
08-28-2008, 07:22 AM
#5
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location:
Posts: 374
Looks around the ball park of 16 to 20K over about three years. at about 5 to 6.5K a year meaning if nothing else saving on a higher end $500 to $600 a month. Theres no big deal here. Also meaning it could take to about 4 years to do this as **** happens.
Sure could pick up a brand new V6 Challenger next year, but then I have to pay off the car first then mod it after... The stang is mine free and clear, no strings and when push comes to shove I cna have a brand new car for $600+ a month that I still have to make mine or Build exactley what I want.
I dont want to race competivley right now, that means a cage and as much as I actually want one for safety period that voids my insurance...runs at the track is defenetley on the list.
Money, also why i dont particularley five a flying F* about bling.
Sure could pick up a brand new V6 Challenger next year, but then I have to pay off the car first then mod it after... The stang is mine free and clear, no strings and when push comes to shove I cna have a brand new car for $600+ a month that I still have to make mine or Build exactley what I want.
I dont want to race competivley right now, that means a cage and as much as I actually want one for safety period that voids my insurance...runs at the track is defenetley on the list.
Money, also why i dont particularley five a flying F* about bling.
08-28-2008, 08:48 AM
#6
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Colorado
Posts: 256
With the engine alone being close to 8 grand, and you wanting to only spend 20, are you going to do all of the labor yourself? You've got the go fast parts in mind, what about the slow fast? Brakes, suspension, cage...etc...seems like your budget is a little off for how much you want.
08-28-2008, 10:55 AM
#7
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location:
Posts: 374
Yea, I dident calculate the brakes in, suggestions for those? Cobras/ GT good enough? Roush? Honestley, money doesent matter. I dont drink, do drugs or smoke, no kids, not married EVERYTHING is payed for. Its spend the cash on the truck, car, bike, sled or boat. Houses here are three times what there worth anywhere else in the country except for BC and im completley happy where I am now.
So then, suggestions for Brakes, tranny/ rear end if it wont take it?
Remeber, this is going to happen gradually in about 4 years time.
Oh, yea. All labour myself.
So then, suggestions for Brakes, tranny/ rear end if it wont take it?
Remeber, this is going to happen gradually in about 4 years time.
Oh, yea. All labour myself.
08-28-2008, 01:06 PM
#9
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location:
Posts: 374
Moneys always a factor, never spend too much or on usless crap. Good finincal management even if im throwing it at car stuff (kind of a waste seriousley) do the best I can for that if you know what I mean. I dont mind spending but it better be worth it.
Whats the deal on the tranny?
I want to have a fudge factor of having parts around 10% stronger then the engine. IE the engine gives out 400 crank HP, the tranny better be able to take atleast 450 HP.
Whats the deal on the tranny?
I want to have a fudge factor of having parts around 10% stronger then the engine. IE the engine gives out 400 crank HP, the tranny better be able to take atleast 450 HP.
08-28-2008, 01:13 PM
#10
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: South FL
Posts: 8,540
Stock 13" SOLID ROTOR Cobra/Mach 1 fronts will be enough to start with if you use a good pad (Hawk HPS for example). Don't buy slotted/cross drilled crap for a street driven car until you learn more about it. Too many people just toss those out there for use, but don't understand proper break in or proper use, and end up destroying the pads, rotors or even worse, cracking on and crashing the car.
A good T5 will be enough to take the HP you are talking about. No need to toss thousands into something you don't need. Heck, the T5 in mine was one I made to use with a 347 in my old fox body, and it's held up just fine.
A good T5 will be enough to take the HP you are talking about. No need to toss thousands into something you don't need. Heck, the T5 in mine was one I made to use with a 347 in my old fox body, and it's held up just fine.