varnco

Ugh.

Fix one thing, something else breaks.

so, fixed an exhaust leak on the passenger side by replacing the exhaust manifold.

Now, the battery went dead (1 year old battery), jumped it, it just won't hold a charge, did the floating things in the tube, and none float... dead battery. Replaced the battery, as it was verified as bad by auto parts store.

Install the battery, turn the key, get a clunk noise, car won't turn over. Tried jumping it too, just in case the battery didn't have enough amps... same thing, just a clunk, sounds like the starter going "clunk" - its coming from bottom of car, passenger side.

So, do I likely have a bad starter now? I gave it a few bangs with the hammer and nothing.

The car is in the road, and cant jack it up on stands and remove to take to the store, so are there any tests I can do to check out the starter and see if that's the problem?

Thanks.

varnco

So, thoughts on how to trouble shoot a "clunK" when I turn the ignition switch?

Anything to check?

Thanks.

samiamthemustangman

Test for power at the small (ignition) starter wire. If no power buy this---->http://www.americanmuscle.com/ignition-switch-9904.html

Chromeshadow

The clunk could be the solenoid, which is just a switch that uses low current to turn on a magnet that actuates a magnetic switch. Do you have a meter or test lamp? Or small jumper clips and a 12 V tail light bulb? You can put the meter or test light on the battery and look for 12V. If you clip on side to the negative side of the battery, you can clip the other lead on the positive side of the battery, and move it down the red wire and test it again. The red battery wire will run to the solenoid, you should have 12V on it when you try to start the car. If you do, the solenoid or starter is bad. Btw, If you do not have 12V to the solenoid, you might try checking the voltage from the negative post along the ground wires.
From the negative post to the starter case, you should have no voltage. If you have voltage, you have a bad ground wire.

varnco

I do have a meter and can check voltage.

Basically, you are saying to check for 12 v at the solenoid when ignition key is tuned to start, to rule out any upstream problems of volts not getting to the starter.

Is there a voltage drop test to see if starter is bad?

How do I know if the starter is getting enough amps to engage starter? Is the a test for that?
Thanks!

Chromeshadow

If you have 9 V at the starter, it should crank enough to start. (measured across the starter terminals or the starter plus to the starter case). There is a test for current, you need a DC current clamp which cost about $150 or more. (AC current clamps are cheap but you need one that can measure DC).
Typically if you have 9V at the starter your OK. Less that 9V at the starter, but 11V or higher at the battery, you either have a shorted starter or bad wires. The current test will tell you which one is the prob.
No current(less that 10A) but 9V or higher at the starter = open starter
Normal current (200-400A) starter should turn fine.
Normal current (200A or higher) and starter does not turn at all=bad starter or seized engine.
Imho, a DC current clamp is a must to own.

varnco

I don't have a meter than can do the amp draw of a car battery. Max is 10Amps, but I do have a shunt somewhere, that I used in the old battlebot days to measure amps.. Just need to find it and see what the resistance is, so I can see if I can use it for the amp draw of a car battery.

Thanks.

Chromeshadow

The shunt might work, but it sounds like a hassle hooking it in line with the battery, and the output of most shunts is too low for the average meter. I've used jumper cables run directly to the starter from a known good battery to check a starter, just make sure it's in neutral and that the wheel are blocked. Both of these tests leave a few variables tho, I prefer the current clamp or taking the starter out to test it.http://www.grainger.com/product/WEST...X23?s_pp=false http://www.grainger.com/product/EXTE...574?s_pp=false Here are two that are around $100.

Btw, on a '69 without much electronics, you can probably put two batteries in series and get the starter to crank the engine enough to start one time. Turn off the radio and everything else before you do this.

corker

I'd try to turn the engine over by hand first. Starter and ring gear on flywheel may not be meshing properly - remote but easy and worth a try. Then start electric troubleshooting from there.
Corky

varnco

It's a 2001 Mustang with the starting problem, not the 1969.

I had not found my shunt yet, so it's not an option And I'm not willing (yet) to Spend $100 for a meter.

I did turn the motor by hand, to make sure it wasn't locked up, but same issue.

I will be getting the starter bench tested again.