sdonaghey

Help!

I just installed a new front Baer PRo+ brake kit and new Russell rear stainless steel brake lines.

I am trying the one-man brake bleed process since I have nobody here to help me. I got the rears bleed with no bubbles coming out. I hook up the one-main bleeder to the Baer front calipers and when I try the same pump with the valve open, I get major bubbles coming out. The fluid comes out solid for a bit and fills the catch bottle, but then starts farting bubbles into the line. The rears do not do this at all. I even re-bleed the rears againg to verify. I am following the correct bleed sequence (Rear-Right, Rear-Left, Front-Right, Front-Left) I get this problem on the front-right caliper.

I have asked someone to come and help me do the two-person bleed, hoping this helps. I need the car working for the morning as I have a special event to go to first thing in the morning.

Any ideas on how to get it bubble free, using the one-person method?

Thanks,

Sean

SpartaPerformance

Are there two bleeder screws on the caliper? Some performance calipers have two and they need to be bled in sequence.

Stoenr

Little soft fading pedal wont hurt, lol!

sdonaghey

Now I have another problem, but I think it is because the battery went dead tonight. I found out the rear brakes were locked up. Could figure out what was going on. They I noticed the battery was almost dead. I can't fire up the engine. When I was bleeding the brakes, I depressed the brake peddle and heard something in the engine bay, then he radio did its CD shuffle thing and I knew then the battery was screwed. Could the rear brake issue be because of the ABS unit not getting power?

I finished off the bleeding of the front calipers with the help of the wife and aftre I found this rear brake issue, I tried to re-bleed the rear right caliper once more, but nothing is coming out of the bleeder valve. The drivers side rear caliper is fine, but the passengar side isn't.

I didn't have my battery quick charger on me, so I couldn't jump the battery to see if that would correct it, so I called it a night. I am replacing that damn factory battery with an Optima Red Top tomorrow.

I am just stumped on why the rear caliper won't bleed anymore. I took off the feeder brake line from the caliper line and hook it up to a tube going to my fluid container and the line flows freely.

I am stumped once again!

Sean

lexustech48

The classic pump and hold two man should get the brakes bled. but if you need to go solo before help arrives, fill the master and crack the bleeder open. keep an eye on the fluid in the master and just let the fluid bleed. This will take some time but it will get you a head start on manually bleeding.

Im going to assume that the new calipers are installed on the correct sides? If not properly installed (on the correct side) the system will never be bled.

sdonaghey

New calipers are on the right side as they are Baer 6S calipers and the logo would be going the wrong way. I took them out of the correct boxes and they were labelled correctly.

After using the two person bleed method I got solid fluid. If the person holding down the pedal left it down too long tough, the bubbles would show up. This would never happen with the rears though.

vasman

May be you let the brake fluid go too low (less than Half tank) and you actually introduced air on the ABS system. If so you need to go to the dealer for ultrasonic beading.

hawkeye18

Yeah, if you didn't keep your master cylinder topped up throughout the procedure, you now have major, major problems, as now not only your ABS system but the master cylinder itself have bubbles in them. Neither can be bled at home in the car.

Bmr4life

Is there a write up for one man bleeding? My wife could help if two man is the only way, she prefers not to.

bingo2

If you have a compressor, get one of these, http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...der-92924.html. I've tried many different brake bleeder contraptions over the years; this one is the best. I flushed/bled the entire system in about 15 minutes.